Jump to content
SAU Community

Need A New Clutch

da spike
 Share

Recommended Posts

da spike Collaborator

da spike

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, I'm up for a new clutch, I've read a few threads on clutches and im probably leaning towards a Exedy Organic HD clutch. The car is a R33 with around 190rwkw. Ive tried ringing Jim Berry like 5 times on different days but havent been able to get a hold of him (he said he would call me back and hasnt) to see what kinda clutch he can offer me, I'm done chasing him so I'll probably just go for the Exedy HD or should i go for the Exedy cushion button? The car is a daily driver so it needs to be driveable through heavy traffic.

I will probably do the clutch change my self but just wanted to ask what bearings are usually changed when changing the clutch? Cause at the moment I've got like a cricket sound in the gearbox when the clutch is not pressed in, as soon as i press it in a little bit it goes away. Also when i press the clutch pedal sometimes it sqeaks... so what should i be looking at when i change the clutch? Any help appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259526-need-a-new-clutch/
Share on other sites
rocketboy Enthusiast

rocketboy

Posted
Posted

The organic should be fine for the power your running, I had an Exedy 5 puk HDB in mine and it wasn't too undrivable at all. It did however toast itself and semi melt itself to the flywheel the other week. Thats after 12,000k's and apparently there was no free play.

The kit will come with a thrust/throw out bearing, which is the one causing your noise I think. It is the one that the clutch fork pushes against the pressure plate.

The sqeak is most likely where the fork pivots off the pivot ball inside the bell housing. carefully add grease to the pivot ball, don't get any on any clutch component or flywheel. Probably a good idea to have the flywheel machined at the same time.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

I have an organic which is rated to 240kw (which is what i'm running and its fine). Perfect for heavy traffic.

As well as the throw out bearing that'll you'll get with the clutch kit, you also want to replace the spigot bearing which sits in then end of the crankshaft (and supports the gearbox's input shaft. You'd be crazy not to do it while the gearbox is out. Its a sintered bearing so you fill it with lubricant before you install it. Just search for spigot here to find more info.

da spike Collaborator

da spike

Posted
  • Author
Posted
As well as the throw out bearing that'll you'll get with the clutch kit, you also want to replace the spigot bearing which sits in then end of the crankshaft (and supports the gearbox's input shaft. You'd be crazy not to do it while the gearbox is out. Its a sintered bearing so you fill it with lubricant before you install it. Just search for spigot here to find more info.

I read a few threads on this spigot bearing and damn its not the easiest thing to get out...but i'll try packing grease inside to force it out.

And definetly getting the flywheel machined, thanks for the replies.

rocketboy Enthusiast

rocketboy

Posted
Posted
I have an organic which is rated to 240kw (which is what i'm running and its fine). Perfect for heavy traffic.

As well as the throw out bearing that'll you'll get with the clutch kit, you also want to replace the spigot bearing which sits in then end of the crankshaft (and supports the gearbox's input shaft. You'd be crazy not to do it while the gearbox is out. Its a sintered bearing so you fill it with lubricant before you install it. Just search for spigot here to find more info.

That reminded me, woulda totally forgotten when put everything back together, just ordered one. Cheers!

donut_kng Experienced

donut_kng

Posted
Posted

I had a sports organic and it didnt last too long, and i wasnt ridiculously harsh on it but there was a bit of 'spirited' driving. Put is this way, the standard clutch lasted longer.. with only slightly less mods (being frotn mount and boost)

I now run a full monty from jim berry and its top notch, never slips or reaks like the excedy ones do, and was even easier to press than the excedy, it can be a bit bitey but you get used to it - i use it as a daily driver.

I highly reccomend calling him again, the number i get him on is 07 38479999

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Rusty roof repair

      By Duncan · Posted

      Shit thing to find eh? I guess the big issue is that whatever "fix" you do now, it might slow the rust down but won't fix it. I just wanted to add that in no way is fixing sheet metal in 3 dimensions the place to start with welding....that is a pro only job because its too hard to work out where things should be, let alone doing a clean enough job that it can look OK and still be strong too.  I needed to get a new rear quarter panel on the GTR and it took a pro weeks to get the old one off cleanly, new one on in the right place and looking somewhat like it should have with most of the previous connecting panels in place. Gluing a couple of bits of metal together with a welder in the garage is doable, but that is totally different to doing panel  replacement
    • Duncan
      first time swapping rb25det into r34

      By Duncan · Posted

      This seems to be a very popular swap since all the turbo skyline prices went through the roof! I'll let someone more familiar chime in, but I understand that yes you probably want to swap the loom in to swap out the auto TCM stuff. You should not assume everything just plugs in either, you need to check at least the ECU wiring diagram for any differences at the plug at the left headlight and probably the ones near the ECU that join the dash loom too  
    • dingleberry
      first time swapping rb25det into r34

      By dingleberry · Posted

      hows it fellas, my first post here which seems crazy cos half the forums i read are like the same age as me haha. to make a long story short ive got an r34 sedan (rb25de neo auto) which im swapping to a s0/s1? rb25det, r33 big box and nismo gt pro lsd. i have the motor and gearbox all bolted up outside the car, old motor and trans out. i bought the motor with stock ecu and loom, do i switch over to that? or will it be easier to get a r34 manual ecu and keep the loom if thats even possible.  also engine mounts look different, anything else thats different or incompatible? cheers, hope this all makes sense Paddy
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      att.4QNbuJlz_gNZPFBGFqeEvxSUHXkGt7z40V59MrtXTPg.mp4    
    • Keeper
      SAUNSW - World Time Attack Challenge - 5 & 6 September

      By Keeper · Posted

      Plan on the day will be to park trackside. Depending on space availability we will try put a small shade tent and a few of the cars on top of the hill inside turn 3, this is an easy to get to parking area with views of Turn 2, Turn 3, Turn 4 and Turn 5 and limited other pieces of the view around the track. IMPORTANT NOTE! One consideration from previous years is from memory the trackside parking sells out before the admission tickets, for that reason I encourage anyone planning on coming to buy tickets for parking now via the official website; https://www.worldtimeattack.com/ The type of parking you are looking for is 2 Day Park & View (Access Around Venue) Vehicle Pass Only Please note this does not include admission to the event itself, remember to grab that also, and kids under 12 get in for free!
×
×
  • Create New...