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Ok, Friday before last I took off from work and gave it a bit of boot from a standstill, the clutch woudn't disengage. I managed to baby it home and a few days later got the gearbox off and found the clutch plate had stuck/semi melted to the flywheel. See pics of worst puk and friction material left on flywheel.

I sent the clutch away to be looked at by exedy and they basically said it's not a warranty issue, but essentially abuse. There apparently wasn't enough free play in the set up as well. Wether this was part of any of the issues I don't know.

The guy at Exedy said it should be fine to put back in as nothing was bent or damaged. I asked wether the small amount of friction material missing would be a problem and he said it would be fine. My problem now is do I take his word and re-install the clutch, but maybe risk the same thing happening, or do I change the clutch plate to a new but the same unit, or go the less hardcore organic full plate?

It hasn't been raced since original installation and I don't do burnouts, just the "enthusiastic" drive here and there, otherwise it's a daily driver with 200rwkw and 12,000k's on that Exedy clutch. I'll probably whip down to a local clutch specialist for an opinion as whats best to do once the clutch is back in my hands.

Oh, and the pics of worst clutch puk and flywheel and pressure plate.

Flywheel -

RichiePic017.jpg

Worst clutch puk/friction pad -

RichiePic013.jpg

Pressure plate -

RichiePic020.jpg

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259545-clutch-experts-opinion-needed/
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Ok, Friday before last I took off from work and gave it a bit of boot from a standstill, the clutch woudn't disengage. I managed to baby it home and a few days later got the gearbox off and found the clutch plate had stuck/semi melted to the flywheel. See pics of worst puk and friction material left on flywheel.

I sent the clutch away to be looked at by exedy and they basically said it's not a warranty issue, but essentially abuse. There apparently wasn't enough free play in the set up as well. Wether this was part of any of the issues I don't know.

The guy at Exedy said it should be fine to put back in as nothing was bent or damaged. I asked wether the small amount of friction material missing would be a problem and he said it would be fine. My problem now is do I take his word and re-install the clutch, but maybe risk the same thing happening, or do I change the clutch plate to a new but the same unit, or go the less hardcore organic full plate?

It hasn't been raced since original installation and I don't do burnouts, just the "enthusiastic" drive here and there, otherwise it's a daily driver with 200rwkw and 12,000k's on that Exedy clutch. I'll probably whip down to a local clutch specialist for an opinion as whats best to do once the clutch is back in my hands.

Oh, and the pics of worst clutch puk and flywheel and pressure plate.

Flywheel -

RichiePic017.jpg

Worst clutch puk/friction pad -

RichiePic013.jpg

Pressure plate -

RichiePic020.jpg

i done the exact same thing and your clutch appears to be the same as mine,i put mine back in and have since done about 10,000km without any trouble

i done the exact same thing and your clutch appears to be the same as mine,i put mine back in and have since done about 10,000km without any trouble

That's good news! Was yours the same clutch?

Any explaination as to why it did it? I have launched harder previously, just thought it was weird to do that.

Cheers.

yeah, i had a jim berry clutch do that on a skid pan.. just locked up. put simply i thru it in the bin and got an os giken. i wouldnt use it. it will do it again.

the problem is the button material thats more suited to steel flywheels/clutches not the nodular iron oem ones..

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