Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll let you know friday at the lastest if i can land a new one for you.

New control unit costs just under $1400 though! Pretty pricey little sucker.

If your changing from the normal one with climate control, you'll also need a new front finisher.

Jesus - at $1400 I'll keep scouring yahoo for a second hand one. digital climate controls are around 7000yen second hand. Thats just over a $100. Don't waste your time buddy if it's anywhere near that :-)

Cheers

Bobby

Bobby - im chasing one for myself for my nismo r32.

Im waiting to hear back for stocks in Japan.

The part number for it mate is: 28525-05U12

Retail from nissan - $1369.55

or i can get it trade for about $1200 roughly including freight to your door.

Edited by 32NSMO

There is also another part - 27510-06U00 - Control Assy. but it didnt compute with Nissan

it was for 9002- *9108 listed as nismo n1

But the 28525-05U12 is for the same nismo, n1 specs, plus some other Jap spec's that i cant read. year models : 9012- *9108

I'd put some pictures up but im not sure how to. can i maybe email them to you ?

i'll print them off, scan them, and send em that way if you like. They're straight off Nissan's FAST system

Yeah sounds silly, but my GTR is an N1 and the climate control is non standard. I'm slowly searching for parts to get it all back to original, and this is one of the few things i need to chase up :-)

But $1400 = not in the near future :-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...