Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys has anyone got any idea what this ticking noise could be coming from my car? (other than a bomb)

it only happens sometimes... like tonight i filled up at the servo... took off... went to do a u turn and gave it a bit of stick round the corner... went to the lights and it started ticking! sounded like a metal ticking noise... quite loud.

then when i got home and went to check it out it stopped... well it stopped b4 i got home...

its happend a few times recently... seems to be after i give it a bit of a caining... but then again i took it around the rds just then and thrashed it and nothing... sounds normal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25977-ticking-noise/
Share on other sites

If its a turbo gasket you'll here it eminating from around the turbo (obviously), and it'll gradually get worse.

Thats what mine did.

When it starts ticking again, get someone to rev it and stick your head near the turbo and have a good listen.

Though my noise didn't come and go as yours does?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25977-ticking-noise/#findComment-551859
Share on other sites

cool... hasnt done it for ages... oil is fine theres no leaks anywhere from what i can see... but eric ur suggestion sounds like it could have some merit as it did end up going away once the car was warmed up properly... mind u it hasnt happend since i posted this :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25977-ticking-noise/#findComment-551964
Share on other sites

Originally posted by pushead

the noise comes on right behind the dash right? like a clinging ticking noise but after the car is warmed up properly its ok .

yeah i get that too

its like a creaking sound but once the engine is warm it goes away

what is that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25977-ticking-noise/#findComment-557001
Share on other sites

I also get this ticking noise when I first start the car up from cold. Idles for about a minute then goes away...dosen't sound nice when it does it though...

It's not the lifters or injectors, very loud and distinct, and only happens when I start it in the morning.

I have read a few other forums and could it be the oil pump not working properly when it's cold?

I think we all would be GREATLY appreciative if someone knows what is happening...

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25977-ticking-noise/#findComment-560394
Share on other sites

I had a decent listen this morning (sat) and I think it sounds like the lifters or something in that part of the engine, because it stills make noise after its started, so possible not the starter motor or something....I have no idea really, take it to the experts when I can...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25977-ticking-noise/#findComment-565133
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

just to let anyone know still interested in this, I haven't been able to get to Ice Performance yet, but I found out (I think) why my engine was making a ticking noise; I was parking on a lean and the oil must of drained almost completely out of one side of the head and thus when I started it in the morning there was no oil there to lube up the cam and lifters, etc. until the pump got the oil up there. Have been parking on level ground since and not one ticking noise!!

hoorah!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25977-ticking-noise/#findComment-587603
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
    • Stock bypass valves are good for plenty of boost.
    • Check for fuel flow out of the outlet end of the rail. Check for spark. Try to start with aerostart (or pressure can brake cleaner or similar solvent in a car) prayed in through TB. If you have fuel and you have spark and it will fire on substitute fuel, then seriously suspect that E85 sitting for ages in your fuel system has destroyed something and put it in your injectors.
    • Nissan stock oil pressure is typically about 1 bar at 1000 rpm plus about 1 bar per thousand revs on top.
×
×
  • Create New...