Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The next thing you know, you'll be parked on the side of the road with a 500m long oil slick in your wake, with parts of the engine scattered all over the place because he thought you could advance your timing 40 degrees with 35 lbs of boost on regular unleaded whilst using the quality stock injectors.

Exactly. Everybody knows if you're going to do that you should run premium at least!

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I am about to order an X-Force dump/front pipe and hi-flow cat. I've been told they are very good. I wanted stainless but they are double the price and apparently mild steel will last a bloody long time anyway. Agree?

I am about to order an X-Force dump/front pipe and hi-flow cat. I've been told they are very good. I wanted stainless but they are double the price and apparently mild steel will last a bloody long time anyway. Agree?

Exactly what I have so agree.....having said that mine is showing some surface rust in a few exposed areas(at the bottom) was installed 08/2007

I would get a better cat though

I am about to order an X-Force dump/front pipe and hi-flow cat. I've been told they are very good. I wanted stainless but they are double the price and apparently mild steel will last a bloody long time anyway. Agree?

Yeah I agree, but I went with stainless anyway.

The mild steel one will start to spot, then turn a disgusting shit brown, and then will start to flake.

The stainless won't.

In the words of Borat - " It's a nice, I like!!!"

how much difference is there with a decat and high-flow? noticeable performance?

also apparently u smell petrol alot more and get black fumes aswell?

Does it change the sound aswell?

You get flames, strange smells, and hurled abuse from Greenpeace with a decat.

Black fumes? You mean black soot and stuff? That's your car running rich. You see it with/without a cat.

you will get a nice tan on ya rear bar that is a bitch to polish out all the time just get a hi flow cat you might lose 1hp lol and the tree huggers will be slightly happy

go with the bellmouth stainless. get a better cat than the just jap ceramic highflow. they have an overpriced xforce metalllic highflow. but any metallic highflow cat will do a good job.

then get a tune

then go see your mechanic, and tell him he's sooo wrong. then do some skids as you leave. then go back and look out your window at him, and say "seeeeeee?"

then come back here and tell us how much better everything feels now that it can breath freely.

then go home and eat some food. it will taste better than ever before.

your girlfriend will look hotter.

your friends will seem less annoying.

then later on, prank call your mechanic.

but seriously, do it. its well worth it. theyre so damn cheap anyway. $200 for jjr stainless front/dump bellmouth?

based on a true story. names and places have been changed. vehicle was an r33.

Edited by Munkyb0y

turbo's hate exhaust back pressure! ANY back pressure is ALL bad.

any removal of bad gas flow from any part of the exhaust will make torque and horsepower.. and proabably ecconomy!

If your paying somebody to do work for you, and they dont go racing... find somebody else who does go racing!

Because they will be 150 000 000 steps ahead of the dude your talking to!

the more they know, the more chance that they will often charge more for work done,

but that will save you $$$ cos they actually know what they are doing and can advise you on the next logical step forward that suits your needs. You wont be buying parts you dont need and then trying to get rid of them to buy something else that 'might' work.

that help you?

So far 9 out of 10 people say fitting a dump pipe will give gains BUT.... i noticed that along with changing the dump,most ppl also changed the cat,front pipe or the complete exhaust at the same time.

I already have a 3" cat-less exhaust from the stock dump pipe back.What kind of gains will i experience if i go with a bell mouth dump? Also all these dump pipes u guys are referring to are 3" right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...