Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haven't tried it but they're very similar and I wouldn't be surprised if it all fitted fine. Why not just buy a stuffed SR20 box, throw the gear set in and then chuck the rb20 bellhousing onto the sr20 box as they're interchangable.

I just put a SR20 bellhousing onto a CA18 gearbox I had to use in my brother's SR20 180sx.

Edited by Mase
I think the SR box is about 20 mm shorter than the RB20 box. Might want to do a bit more research?

If people can run a RB20 bellhousing onto an SR box I cant see there being a problem. I havent used an RB20 bellhousing on an SR20 box before, just heard of other people doing it. I've been told the CA18, SR20 and RB20 boxes are very similar and bellhousings interchangable.

Edited by Mase

do it brisby. :rolleyes:

in fact justin is out of town for 3 weeks. pop over to my place and we can go down to the basement and whip his box out and swap it with yours. lol, he hardly ever gets to sixth anyway so as long as we leave his gear knob on there he probably wont notice for a while...

So does that mean an S15 box will go behind an RB20?

Couldn't tell you for sure, but if people can put a 5 speed behind there S15 SR20 then I can't see why not? Might need to change the tail shaft? The standard S15 6 speed isn't exactly a very strong box though.

Edited by Mase

Yeh, but i am a tight ass so am pretty kind to mechanicals when i drive my car, so would hope i could get one to hang together. Still trying tpo do some numbers on the OS Giken gear set and also on PPG box, though ongoing maintenance is my main concern with a helical dog box from PPG. LOL i am easy on mechanical parts but hard on panels :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...