Jump to content
SAU Community

New Intake On The V35


Recommended Posts

bought my cf tube, and hks pod.. waiting for arrival :P

sorry for hijack, Oaskey, may i know how does it feel/sound with the plenum put on? and how does the installation goes?(easy, hard)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 1 month later...

You know, if you go to the K&N website, it says you can order a CAI kit from Repco or Autobarn. So why bother searching high and low for a kit (or even DIY)? I am not in Aust now, but it will be the 1st thing I'll be doing - to enquire about the price at Repco.

Or, another alternative, (If you are a cheapskate like me), then search eBay for a kit. The best kit that i have seen so far with a K&N filter is $58USD plus $55AUD delivery. It's $20.50USD for a kit without the K&N pod filter (I wouldn't recommend) from the same USA Seller.

Hope that helps.

And oh, despite what you read on the K&N website regarding V35 sedans (G35 Infiniti) and V35 Coupes, the CAI is the same, except for the coupe CAI Kit, they have extended the pipe further down into the front bonnet area. Anyways, do your own research.

Furthermore to this, if you are searching for the radiator air dam cooling plate thingy , don't be silly and go a 350Z one as it won't fit! And, coupes and sedans differ, so buy carefully. I have also searched ebay and found a good CF one for around $50USD to fit the coupe (and needs a bit of trimming to fit the sedan).

For all you V35 coupe owners out there, feel lucky that you can get much more aftermarket bling bling than us poor V35 sedan owners....

My 2 cents worth...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

K&N Typhoon cold air intake is about $700 give or take 100. Got one for my Camry last year.

AND i just finished putting on my new cold intake...... oooo

I had a "Panic Attack" when taking off part of the intake pipe :D . It ripped almost in half "OMG!!" have to fix this so i can drive me car!

Got it all fixed with glue and tape, lots of tape. :P

Started putting in the new intake and blow me down i didn't need the part i broke. So the trip to the local supermarket to get the really cheap glue and tape was a waste of time so was all the yelling i did at myself.

Pics

Looks good ay?

post-60315-1241529889_thumb.jpg

post-60315-1241529909_thumb.jpg

post-60315-1241529936_thumb.jpg

post-60315-1241529960_thumb.jpg

post-60315-1241529982_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yup, JWT.. i m still deciding if i should keep my cf tube in or swap it with the z-tube and which to sell..

Paul, how did u get the heat shield installed? i still cant figure out how to put tat into the car :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yup, JWT.. i m still deciding if i should keep my cf tube in or swap it with the z-tube and which to sell..

Paul, how did u get the heat shield installed? i still cant figure out how to put tat into the car :)

LOL yeah took me ages to work it out. but when i got it in i was like "oh how easy"

At work now, i'll post a "how to" with pics when i get home

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOL yeah took me ages to work it out. but when i got it in i was like "oh how easy"

At work now, i'll post a "how to" with pics when i get home

the whole process was a little scary.. *doing these first time..

After failing and the sky getting dark, i gave up and drive without it, normal.. (mayb vic is too cold to feel the difference)

When the car is started, i do feel the air heat blown from engine if i put my hand under the pod, so better get the shield installed soon.. to block it from sucking hot air..

Did u hear the little hissing noise when u giv it a big push? i hv... still trying to find out if it 'suppose to b' tat way or there is a small leak..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not really any hissing noise from mine. i do get a little half second hiss when i first tap the go peddle.

Well you are ment to put on the heat sheild before anything else but i guess you can work around the pod.

It's only there to stop the heat from your engine. But i guess if it's a cold day and your driving, the cold air would blow the heat away "maybe"

Just had my V on the DYNO again but the readings were not good. Ownly because the V's need time to adjust to the new settings. I had a before test from a month ago 163kw on the wheels then put my spacer on and got 170kw, put the new intake on and got 153kw on the first go :D"WHAT IS GOING ON?" second run 163kw, next 168kw, next 171kw, next 174kw, next 178kw, then i stopped it was getting late. So the V needed time to adjust. I will go back to the DYNO next week after the car has had more time to adjust.

The sound is wicked cool. I still got my standed exhust (i don't want to change it)

post-60315-1241614563_thumb.jpg

post-60315-1241614586_thumb.jpg

post-60315-1241614599_thumb.jpg

post-60315-1241614612_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey dude looks awesome how is the sound! i want to get a JWT but have heard it actually lowers power / does nothing because it sucks in hot air from the engine even with the pod cover.

i was thinking of getting the stillen, which is enclosed in a box, hence it will be harder to get defected for also. i have also read the stillen actually does lower intake temps because of its design.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey dude looks awesome how is the sound! i want to get a JWT but have heard it actually lowers power / does nothing because it sucks in hot air from the engine even with the pod cover.

i was thinking of getting the stillen, which is enclosed in a box, hence it will be harder to get defected for also. i have also read the stillen actually does lower intake temps because of its design.

well in the end i got more power but still going to wait until the V has adjusted. I was getting cold air in the pod. we had a temp sensor in the pod. It did lower power the fist run but got better as we dit more runs.

Didn't you read my last post?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wanna ask for some suggestion.. i heard somewhere that the oem 350z intake pipe is actually better, compared to stainless steel pipe, due to reason that stainless-steel pipe gets hotter easier and faster than plastic, so actually hot air are being suxked in..

Anyone can help to explain if this is right or wrong in anyway?

I do kinda agree if someone told me plastic gets hot the same way just like stainless steel... but it does also get colder faster than plastic rite?

this is the reason i still cant decide wat kind of intake i should buy and install on my v35.. :D

Why not get this Intake Induction Hose 4PLY Silicone.

It should be even better in Heat resistance. You can find it in Ebay

post-53067-1241704132_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok all....

intake pipe with K&N pod filter on ebay:

Item: 370192426273, $58USD plus $55USD shipping and $2USD insurance....

I just ordered my kit...

Edited by siu_loong_bao
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok all....

intake pipe with K&N pod filter on ebay:

Item: 370192426273, $58USD plus $55USD shipping and $2USD insurance....

I just ordered my kit...

that is sooo cheap. Hope it works out.

Keep us informed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Little more work!  Did some body work on the rear wheel arches and since the paint was a cheap spray job before figured I’d do something to tide me over until I wrap the car.    Colour might not be everyone’s choice but I like it and it’s only temporary, just hate having primer from the wheel arches standing out.    Keeping an eye out for a decent set of wheels to throw on now. Wheels and tires on the car are junk
    • Its likely to be 70% road 30% track usage, track usage will increase if anything. Decided not to fit it as I cant be arsed changing the bushes on my LCAs again 🤣 I did get the below back from GKTech though so they should work together     The anti-squat kit and roll center adjusters work independently since they change the rear lower control arm's angle in different ways. The anti-squat kit adjusts the angle from front to back, which impacts anti-squat values. Roll center adjusters change the angle side to side, mainly to correct geometry on cars that are significantly lowered. They might affect each other a tiny bit, but overall, you can think of them as separate.
    • What are you doing with the car? street car or race car? People get hung up on the squat of the s/r chassis rears. There is positives to the squat if a car is setup and driven correctly for it (correct ride height, spring rate, alignment, damper valving). Generally just lengthen the rear traction arm by 5-10mm and that will help the squat and bump steer too. You are also correct with the roll centre too. This too also needs to be adjustable if you start messing with suspension geometry.   Having done quiet a bit of testing on race cars this year in regards to rear squat, I've seen some big positives from it in regards to drive off corners and traction. 
    • I find I am using the MX5 for everything except long overnight cruises with Jackie, or, if picking up the kids to go somewhere, the SS has so much more room inside, and is much more comfortable if your going to be doing Hwy driving for 6-8 hours And the MX5 isn't bad in stop go traffic for a manual transmission car, whilst the clutch kit has been upgraded from stock, it is still light, and also not having a stupidly light flywheel in it helps as well, I've spent alot of time sitting on the M5, M4 and M7 stuck in traffic when plodding around the Greater Sydney Region in it Another benefit is MX5's are not really a car that gets stolen, you can pretty much park it anywhere, and it will still be there when you return
    • I can totally get why you like it for that sort of commute. I was thinking BoganDore because it's such a lazy drive, for things like stop start traffic.   I used to do over an hour in stop start shit from one side of Bris to the next, twice a day. My choice of car was larger displacement, with an auto. Basically for torque in low rpm/very low speed, and no clutch pedal. But loved a fun manual for the weekends, which the partner has (plus had the LandCruiser too for other fun drives). I now have an EV as a work car, and I tell ya what, ultimate daily driver, especially if youre out of energy, like I often am after work. I don't even need to touch the brake pedal   That said, I'm presently rebuilding the Liberty GTB to get it setup for weekend drives and track abuse! So small high revving turbo engine with 6 speed cog swapper!   But for your style of commute, I'd probably take the MX5 too!   For those choices, I'm ignoring fuel economy. Because I know how atrocious V8 daily life is for fuel from when I used to daily a manual SS, ha ha. Hence why I know I love the daily rumble of a V8
×
×
  • Create New...