Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

today i installed a turbosmart boost tee to my r33 which has stock ecu, and i adjusted itand it was running fine on 12 psi then suddenly after a few hours when i put my foot down and boost reaches max the car starts to jerk and not feel smooth it oonlhy happens on full boost. so i put back the stock boost soloinoid and its still doing it andnow im realy confused since i have not changed anything else any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259974-r33-boost-problem/
Share on other sites

The reason why that is happening is because your:

Coil packs

Spark plugs gapped to 1.1 or 0.8mm

Stock ECU

Rich & Retard

Boosting over 12 psi is when your car starts going crazy! Because of the MASS airflow coming it it will cause this to happend.

since it occured after fitting my boost tee im guessing its Rand R but it doenst go away when im running stock solonoid now is there something i have to do to get rid of the R and R, i reset the ecu aswel

i have the same problem but mine loses power between around 4k rpm to 6k rpm. makes a popping sound like the fuel isnt being ignited at the right time due to spark plugs or coils so ill be taping my coils and putting in platinum sparkys regapped to 0.8 to overcome this. ive heard R&R only kicks in over 14psi so i suggest going with the sparks and taping coils first. im guessing it does this because the old plugs arent gapped for such a rush in fuel.

i have the same problem but mine loses power between around 4k rpm to 6k rpm. makes a popping sound like the fuel isnt being ignited at the right time due to spark plugs or coils so ill be taping my coils and putting in platinum sparkys regapped to 0.8 to overcome this. ive heard R&R only kicks in over 14psi so i suggest going with the sparks and taping coils first. im guessing it does this because the old plugs arent gapped for such a rush in fuel.

yeah i understand all this but the question is that my car was running fine before on 10psi with solonoid and now after the boost controller ive revereted to the solonoid it doesnt run with it so how could the plugs be an issue if they were running as they were before with the solonoid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...