Jump to content
SAU Community

Putting an extra turbo to the R33 GTST


supra
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

YES!, go for it as im going to get mine done in a few weeks. Im adding a another t28 ball bearing turbo for my main turbo and leaving the t28 ceramic turbine one as my second turbo. This way you will run at least 18psi boost.

Cost wise, not sure yet but around $2000.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by WLD747

...This way you will run at least 18psi boost.

Ah, don't think so - if you're running 9psi in each turbo, then you'll still only run 9psi overall. And if you're running 18 psi in each turbo, the ceramic wheels aren't going to stay attached to the spindles for too long.

But someone might be able to prove me wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well personally i dont fink the engine internals are strong enough to handle the power. I guessing you'll need to change internals, as well as upgrading injectors, fuel pumps...etc... But i've been told you can run up to 18psi on stock internals.

Though it would be nice to beat a GTR very hard though! Goodluck buddy! Take me on first parallel boy! Hehe you know what i mean Supra! hahahah

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by iBd14U

But i've been told you can run up to 18psi on stock internals.

Probably can but for how long? Prob last like a couple of moths... I would never run over 12 psi on stock internals after that u are just killing ur engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

supra , u can get the gtst to stock gtrs power very easy but where do u get the traction to keep up with it ? and how many gtrs do u know that are stock ? u dont need to do much to a gtr to run low 12's . why not just buy a gtr ?

to run 18 psi on 2 turbos u need each one to run 18 psi , 9psi each = 9 psi not 18 .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by DAMQIK GTS-T

At the Qld Dyno day last weekend there was a R31 with a rb25dett in it, it had two 180sx turbo's in it (I think)

It  made well over 200 RWKW on a dyno that reads low figures.

It was very well set up and made good low range power as well.

for the price to setup a twn tubro, i expect more than just about 200rwkw which stock tubro can achive

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by blind_elk

Ah, don't think so - if you're running 9psi in each turbo, then you'll still only run 9psi overall. And if you're running 18 psi in each turbo, the ceramic wheels aren't going to stay attached to the spindles for too long.

But someone might be able to prove me wrong.

Two stock turbos will be able to be provide more boost to one engine because they're only feeding half the engine. Thus lower RPM on the turbo to provide the same boost. Since it's speed and not boost which kills the ceramic wheels it should be possible to get 18psi out of each turbo. Whether it's worth the effort or not is another thing.

Croat, there are plenty of guys here running more than 12psi all day everyday on a stock engine without any problems. I'm one of them :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by WLD747

YES!, go for it as im going to get mine done in a few weeks.  Im adding a another t28 ball bearing turbo for my main turbo and leaving the t28 ceramic turbine one as my second turbo.  This way you will run at least 18psi boost.

Cost wise, not sure yet but around $2000.

I'm not sure why you would do this. Firstly you are not running the turbos sequentially, so if you have mismatched compressor maps, you will end up with big problems and poor turbo repsonse - not good for flow. Secondly, two T28s are probably a bit big for a RB25 stock internals - they are sized to flow for 2.5L and sized to flow for 2.5L worth of exhast gas to spin the exhaust wheel. If you halve exhaust flow to both turbos, say hello to massive lag. And btw, "at least 18psi" is probably way past the efficiency of a stock T28 turbo... and on stock internals? I guess thats a good idea as a few weeks after you'll have to rebuild the bottom end with forgies - and then you can bolt on two T28 highflows and really build a monster.

Why not just do it properly and save up for a high flow or better still an aftermarket jap turbo second hand? Less hassle, better gains... and if it were as easy as throwing on another T28 for $2000 (which it will definately cost more than that) why isn't everybody doing this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Ronin 09

I'm not sure why you would do this. Firstly you are not running the turbos sequentially, so if you have mismatched compressor maps, you will end up with big problems and poor turbo repsonse - not good for flow.  Secondly, two T28s are probably a bit big for a RB25 stock internals - they are sized to flow for 2.5L and sized to flow for 2.5L worth of exhast gas to spin the exhaust wheel. If you halve exhaust flow to both turbos, say hello to massive lag. And btw, "at least 18psi" is probably way past the efficiency of a stock T28 turbo... and on stock internals? I guess thats a good idea as a few weeks after you'll have to rebuild the bottom end with forgies - and then you can bolt on two T28 highflows and really build a monster.

Why not just do it properly and save up for a high flow or better still an aftermarket jap turbo second hand? Less hassle, better gains... and if it were as easy as throwing on another T28 for $2000 (which it will definately cost more than that) why isn't everybody doing this?

I agree on a stock rb25det it wont last long 2 turbo's meens twice as much cfm ,u gona need a good fuel setup.And by the time u build a manifold ,piping its not going to be cost effective.Also it will spool up later but so will a bigger single turbo.And think about this why do all the big hp cars (supra,gtr,rx7) all run a big single turbo....cause its two hard to get big power out of 2 turbos cause they have to be producing the exact same cfm,And this usally ends up in difficult tunning which is not worth the effort.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

guys

if the aim is to build a GTS-t to beat a GTR, why not spend the money on more important things like aftermarket management system, along with a big enough turbo to provide the horsepower required. Match it with a good FMIC, high flow exhaust and air filter, and if the standard internals can handle the power gain you will have reached your goal, but more importantly you will have potential for more power gains with a strong rebuild in the future. Unfortunately this will cost you more than $2000, but then again i would love to see a well tuned twin turbo set up on a GTS for $2000.

Sure 'twin turbo' sounds sweet, but cost and hassle aint worth it, and your goal of beating a GTR can be achieved with a single setup.

Horsepower requires money, especially if you like reliability and drivability.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you wanna do it.. use two t25's off a ca18.. they should work well and if your after a gain after that just upgrade to the t25g's then to t28's off a s14/s15 they are all the same flange so the two original manifolds you get made up will be fine. youll need fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, bigger injectors, fmic, custom exhaust manifolds (obvouis but had to mention) a computer that will use a map sencor.. cause it will just be easier.. but mostly up to personal preferance. .. the r33 gtst box should be fine.. a good clutch.. you could use different diff gears to keep the turbos on boost if they drop off.. id sujest getting cams and cam gears.. help bring turbos on boost if there is problems???.. what else is there.. anyway just from the stuff iv said that will cost a lil bit more than 2000 bux.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have done this, home welded manifolds, dump pipes, Used E6k Ecu, goes awesome. Just got it on the road, only running 10psi. So far very good, lots of potential yet, shall let you guys know how it goes...

At the moment, it gets boost at 3500 rpm and then the boost hits hard. I highly recomend this sort of biuld up. Its cheap too!

Im using staged injection with 12 injectors.

DSC00170.jpg

cttbu.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • People still have Skylines? I thought they're non-existent now. 
    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
×
×
  • Create New...