Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry all for making a new thread but my gear box has been making noises and i am unsure of what oil to get as i have never done it before, is their any stuff that would maybe get rid of some noise aswell?

sorry if there is a link to this info im just a bit stupid when it comes to finding stuff lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260120-what-oil-to-put-in-gear-box/
Share on other sites

sorry all for making a new thread but my gear box has been making noises and i am unsure of what oil to get as i have never done it before, is their any stuff that would maybe get rid of some noise aswell?

sorry if there is a link to this info im just a bit stupid when it comes to finding stuff lol

a good mineral oil... stay away from the redline shockproof crap, it kills synchros

-D

who rebuilt it Danai i wouldn't mind mine freshened up but not to the extent you paid just mainly synchros

im not sure of ther name Steve coz my workshop sent it off to the guy who build the "ralliart box's", ill try and find out for u

mine only went in to originally get all the synchros but ended up needing a whole lot more, depends on the condition it is when they open it up

mine needed:

synchro's 1,2,3,4

input shaft

3/4 synchro hub

synchro keys, springs and sleeves

i nput shaft bearing

input seal

3rd gear

hey danai can you pm a around about figure on what it cost you as i only want 5th gear syncro done and probably thrust bearing but wanna know how much i could be poosible looking at , thanks

a good mineral oil... stay away from the redline shockproof crap, it kills synchros

-D

Are you kidding???, Redline has saved a few of my gear boxes, second gear and third grinding.

In my RX7 race/street car turning 10,000 plus rpm on shifts, when I bought the car the tranny syncros crashed/gring on everyshift into second and third. with less then 40,000miles on it. after 11yrs of caining ,when i sold it it had 526,000miles not K's or over 1 million K's on it and never had any other issues with tranny except the seals on both ends replaced when putting in a clutch and new Ujoints. the car was thrashed daily hard core.the skyline would never handle that abuse , RX7 trannys are not that strong to start with but mine took 250-350hp all those years without breaking anything. including 11,000rpm clutch drops with huge tires on a night drag run. rear end ran Redline too, never failed once, only seals on end plates/axle.

my current car with 5spd, noisy tranny, bad synchro in second gear, put in syn power 75 from penrite, after replacing with factory slop.

it helped a bit but went with Redline , all fixed now.. ????? whines a bit when cold out but stops when warm. car had issues at 43,000k,, now has nearly 70,000. in the heat here dont use mineral oil, shit!! unless you have a six spd getrag... Redline is so slick it tends to cause issues on those boxes wont engage properly due to lack of friction.. per Redline,Holden, Nissan,Supra, Getrag engineers.

also royal purple is good, and amsoil, mobil 1 synth gear oil, gulf western I heard is decent too.

all synthetic, runs heaps cooler and smoother, less noises.

but watch it on rear ends, LSD needs proper oil to function.???

but watch it on rear ends, LSD needs proper oil to function.???

You won't need special LSD oil for your standard GTS-T Viscous LSD diff, they work via a different principal to the clutch, cone and mechanical types. If you've got an aftermarket diff........ well I don't know. But rule of thumb, go for the best you can afford. Diff and gearbox oils don't get changed like engine oil so you want to make sure you've got something that'll go the distance.

Are you kidding???, Redline has saved a few of my gear boxes, second gear and third grinding.

In my RX7 race/street car turning 10,000 plus rpm on shifts, when I bought the car the tranny syncros crashed/gring on everyshift into second and third. with less then 40,000miles on it. after 11yrs of caining ,when i sold it it had 526,000miles not K's or over 1 million K's on it and never had any other issues with tranny except the seals on both ends replaced when putting in a clutch and new Ujoints. the car was thrashed daily hard core.the skyline would never handle that abuse , RX7 trannys are not that strong to start with but mine took 250-350hp all those years without breaking anything. including 11,000rpm clutch drops with huge tires on a night drag run. rear end ran Redline too, never failed once, only seals on end plates/axle.

my current car with 5spd, noisy tranny, bad synchro in second gear, put in syn power 75 from penrite, after replacing with factory slop.

it helped a bit but went with Redline , all fixed now.. ????? whines a bit when cold out but stops when warm. car had issues at 43,000k,, now has nearly 70,000. in the heat here dont use mineral oil, shit!! unless you have a six spd getrag... Redline is so slick it tends to cause issues on those boxes wont engage properly due to lack of friction.. per Redline,Holden, Nissan,Supra, Getrag engineers.

I've seen this argument many times. Redline themselves recommend that people dont use shockproof in a synchromesh gearbox because it will eventually shag the synchros. Its designed for dogboxes....

It can hide some symptoms of a failing gearbox but it doesnt fix any problems. Matter of fact, since you're shifting and it cushions the impact when the gears arent synchronized, its often mashing your synchros and you don't even feel it. In the short term, it'll make your box feel slightly better but you'll halve the lifetime due to using it. I have to replace my box for the exact reason that the redline shit was in it. When they drained the fluid (which looks like pureed smurf) there were heaps of tiny shards of metal in there from poor shifts. Just look to what the OEM manufacturers recommend (usually mineral oil).... I can guarantee you that no manufacturer out there is recommending their customers use redline shockproof.

-D

You will never sell me to use Mineral Oil , I agree if your box is stuffed , ie broken or bent parts its a bandaid at best, kinda like sawdust in mineral oil to silence a noisy box before selling it..lol

but if your box is scratchy or noisy it can work miracles on life of the box.. see my post, Im not kidding how well it works.

and it does reduce temps too, my shifter doesnt get hot anymore like syn75 or factory oils.???

this is the oil to use in a R34/33 rb25 engine skyline. you dont need shockproof oil just normal stuff from redline.

http://www.redlineoil.com.au/oil-finder-de...;ProductID=5884

Select your closest climate range. For -10°to25°C use 'MTL' or 5°to35°C use 'MTL' or 15°to50°C use 'Superlight Shock'. (* Advantage option for Performance / Racing use 'Lightweight Shockproof'.) @ see handbook for Litres

I use water wetter from Redline too, a huge difference in its ability to keep the engine cool, on the hottest days,all my cars for the past 15- or so years have used it, works great!! going to use it to water cool my car amps too..lol

link for oil recommended for GTR's

http://www.redlineoil.com.au/oil-finder-de...;ProductID=7592

Edited by sapphiregraphics
I use water wetter from Redline too, a huge difference in its ability to keep the engine cool, on the hottest days,all my cars for the past 15- or so years have used it, works great!! going to use it to water cool my car amps too..lol

lol water wetter. I've heard it all now.... if you want better cooling, why not do what I did? Get an ISC 52mm radiator, new hoses, an N1 water pump, a 1.3kpa nismo radiator cap and an air deflector shroud... more than enough cooling for the average bear :)

-D

lol water wetter. I've heard it all now.... if you want better cooling, why not do what I did? Get an ISC 52mm radiator, new hoses, an N1 water pump, a 1.3kpa nismo radiator cap and an air deflector shroud... more than enough cooling for the average bear :D

-D

why bother, my runs cool on 40 plus days with ac set to 18...lol

only thing I have added is water wetter, and nismo cap , deflector coming soon but just for looks,..lol

and only cost me just over 20 bucks bet you spent a tad more then that..lol :D

to each his own :)

geez now im more confused lol heard red line is great then i got told it damages ur syncro's then i hear its amazing, now im just confused lol, im gunna have a look tomorrow thing half my problem is that the clutch is to slack and maybe my tail shaft. wanna hear more about this oil thing now tho coz now i have no idea.

Edited by r33 chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
×
×
  • Create New...