Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1990 Nissan R32 gtr

110,000k's

gunmetal grey

factory alloys with good rubber

Car is registered till oct this year

ENGINE

Late last year the engine felt like it was slightly down on power. It was taken to a well known jap tuner and put on the dyno and made 208kw at the wheels. The guy then found the fuel injector on 5th cylinder was leaking which has caused that piston to lean out and has caused detonation. compression test was done and the results were 170, 170, 170, 170, 50, 170psi.

The car has not been driven since. i have been quoted $5500 for standard rebuild.

This car would ideally suit someone who could do most of the work themselves. Ive been told the parts needed for a rebuild are only 2-3g. its all the labour that costs the money.

BODY

standard bodykit

body is strait and paint work is good. its 19 years old now but is still very respectable for its age.

the front bumper is ok but i was going to get aroung to getting it repainted ($300)

basicly the car comes up good with a clean and a polish.

INTERIOR

very tidy for age

drivers seat showing usual signs of wear

dash bulbs have been replaced with brighter LEDs (looks much better)

DRIVETRAIN

gearbox is good no crunching and diff seems tight

MODS

$700 alarm installed (tilt sensors, immobilisers etc)

Blitz twin pods

Huge exhaust (not too loud though)

Tein suspension

Nismo suspensionm arms

New twin plate clutch

Nismo 320k speedo

Nismo intercooler surround

tinted windows

Steering wheel

Greedy blow off valve

Arc inlet pipe

MAINTINANCE

engine oil replaced every 5000k (redline)

gearbox and diff oil replaced every 10,000k (redline)

clutch replaced bout 1000k ago

all belts, radiator, water pump replaced @ 80,000k

all brake rotors machined when clutch was done 1000k ago

I have owned this car for over two years and up until now has been a great car.

My asking price is $11,000ono or swap for why.

My reason for selling is i have alot of debt and cant justify spendenig money on a motor rebuild when other things should take priority.....sadly:(

Will get pics up asap or can just pxt via phone

Call or text Carl anytime on 0420783616 post-39739-1236550902_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260224-r32-gtr-for-sale-11000-ono/
Share on other sites

This car also has a brand new speedo cable fitted and comes with original bumper mesh that covers the intercooler also the original airbox. I have a gtr workshop manual on cd and heaps of reciepts for things done to the car.

First person to come up with $10K takes it away!

For an idea of what i would swap.........dont offer me any ford or holden! enough said. haha;)

Hey guys the passenger side window has decided not to work? it seems to have no power at all? ive never had any problems with the windows before. maybe its because its been sitting around for 2 months? but anyways just letting you know.

Hi karl

I spoke to you today about your car,I am the bloke from tassy and was going to catch up thursday.I see you may have sold and i hope you have but if it falls through please call me as i will still come and look and most likly buy.

regards stuart 0409135950

STILL FOR SALE!!!.........deal didnt come through. $9500 FIRM. I will not give this car away for nothing. If your not preppared to pay the asking price, dont bother looking :D Window is working fine now, the window lock was on :banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Why not? Since mines been built, I've used low boost maybe 5 times.
    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
×
×
  • Create New...