Turbo Beanies/blankets

[juggernaut1]

Who's using turbo beanies/blankets are do you find these effective.

Are there any disadvantages of using these products to reduce heat off the turbine. Do they cause the turbine to overheat i.e. is it better to have airflow to the turbine.

Are there better ways to reduce underbonnet heat.

P.S. I already have ceramic coating on the turbine and dump pipe.

Please discuss

Edited March 9, 2009 by juggernaut1

[radix]

Effective yes. The whole point of this is to keep heat in the turbine. The hotter the air the more heat energy that you are creating to push against the exhaust wheel.

I'm assuming a bonnet is the hood of the car, if so, it does help with this a little by confining the heat to the turbo condom. Problem is, it will still escape from the bottom where there is less coverage, and being that heat rises, will still keep your engine bay a little warm.

The only real concern would be in a high HP high boost application where you would need to worry about exhaust temps. Since you will be dissipating less heat your headers/ex mani will be much warmer than before, and thus you will notice an jump in temperature on the exhaust side.

[juggernaut1]

The only real concern would be in a high HP high boost application where you would need to worry about exhaust temps. Since you will be dissipating less heat your headers/ex mani will be much warmer than before, and thus you will notice an jump in temperature on the exhaust side.

Do you mean I need to worry about ex gas temps or just the manifold temp. The manifold is also double ceramic coated internally and externally (as is the turbine). My hot and cold intercooler pipes are also ceramic coated.

I've thought about sheilding the manifold (top mount) with the ACL heat shield (as used on XR6 turbos), blanketting the turbine and wrapping the dump and gate pipes.

I've also got a vented bonnet on the way.

Am I on the right track......do you see any accelerated heat fatique issues I should worry about as a consequence of blanketting and wrapping.

Cheers,

Edited March 9, 2009 by juggernaut1

[BOZ22N]

I have been using the same one for two years and has been all good. But i have heard stories of them catching on fire?

[The Bogan]

I read that you need to remove them before shuting down the motor as the heat is trapped for longer and cooks the oil in the turbs, i think it was the horsepower in a box website.

I done the $2 cooling mod that was featured in HPI and found the temp drop in the engine bay components was noticably cooler with my self calibrating hand.

I used about 6 washers per bolt on the bonnet hinge to get a lift at the rear of my bonnet of about 10mm, i also removed the rubber seal strip and used some plugs that hold the bonnet sound deadining mat on to fix the plastic bizzo that covers over where the wipers go through.

It cost more than $2 though as i had to by slightly longer bolts to, all up about $10 at Bunnings.

DISCLAIMER, I also wrapped that Flashing tape shit around my Intake and I/C piping, heat reflective tape with a tar backing, DONT DO IT, it took ages to get the sticky shit looking stuff off and it was a waste of about $50.

[radix]

If your mani is ceramic coated then it should be fine. The temprature comming out of the exhaust side of the head is what I'm refering to.

Say your exhaust temps are 400c at idle, you ceramic coat it takes you to 420c at idle, turbo condom for another 20. Since you are trapping heat at all the dissipation points, your exhaust gases will be higher temperature from the time your exhaust valves open to the time it hits the wheel of the turbine.

[juggernaut1]

I read that you need to remove them before shuting down the motor as the heat is trapped for longer and cooks the oil in the turbs, i think it was the horsepower in a box website.

I done the $2 cooling mod that was featured in HPI and found the temp drop in the engine bay components was noticably cooler with my self calibrating hand.

I used about 6 washers per bolt on the bonnet hinge to get a lift at the rear of my bonnet of about 10mm, i also removed the rubber seal strip and used some plugs that hold the bonnet sound deadining mat on to fix the plastic bizzo that covers over where the wipers go through.

It cost more than $2 though as i had to by slightly longer bolts to, all up about $10 at Bunnings.

DISCLAIMER, I also wrapped that Flashing tape shit around my Intake and I/C piping, heat reflective tape with a tar backing, DONT DO IT, it took ages to get the sticky shit looking stuff off and it was a waste of about $50.

Yes I read that comment from Hp in a box on their website.

Hmmm there seems to be two schools of though on raising the back of of the bonnet. Some say this a high pressure area and forces air back into the engine bay which in turn leads to other issues i.e. reduces airflow through the radiator, intercooler etc. Which is why I odered a vented bonnet which promotes airflow through the rad and pulls the heat out of the engine bay.

[radix]

And as far as them catching on fire, I have yet to see that, and cooking a turbine? We are running an HX52 on a 25 at 2 bar and have had no problems except snapping both rear axels at around 700rwhp.

[radix]

Yes I read that comment from Hp in a box on their website.

Hmmm there seems to be two schools of though on raising the back of of the bonnet. Some say this a high pressure area and forces air back into the engine bay which in turn leads to other issues i.e. reduces airflow through the radiator, intercooler etc. Which is why I odered a vented bonnet which promotes airflow through the rad and pulls the heat out of the engine bay.

The idea is to allow a path from the front ports in the bumper over the engine and then out the back of the engine bay. Like, a speed driven fan of sorts.

[juggernaut1]

If your mani is ceramic coated then it should be fine. The temprature comming out of the exhaust side of the head is what I'm refering to.

Say your exhaust temps are 400c at idle, you ceramic coat it takes you to 420c at idle, turbo condom for another 20. Since you are trapping heat at all the dissipation points, your exhaust gases will be higher temperature from the time your exhaust valves open to the time it hits the wheel of the turbine.

Understand what you are saying. Only concern is (as with all turbo cars - there will be some ex gas residue left in the cylinder which pollutes the incoming charge) whether the additional heat stored in the ex gas residue will promote earlier detonation?

Maybe it isnt a concern for me....as the car was on the dyno a couple of weeks ago and my tuner commented how much additional timing he was able to dial into my car before the onset of detonation compared to other similar setups.

[msports180]

I have seen a turbo beanie catch fire before, from the oil getting trapped inside the materal, very rare to happen though. I like the metal type heat shields for highmounts, stops alot of radiant heat but still allows good airflow. I have also heard of having to remove them prior to engine shut down, but cant back this up, i have seen them used alot in competition and those guys never took em off?

[The Bogan]

REF Bonnet spacers, I read that to so i tied some wool at each corner and in the middle just inside the bonnet and when i was cruising along between 60 kph and 160kph it was flowing up my windscreen which indicated to me there was good air flow coming out.

[juggernaut1]

The idea is to allow a path from the front ports in the bumper over the engine and then out the back of the engine bay. Like, a speed driven fan of sorts.

Yes thats the theory....but I found an article on the autospeed website and they performed pressure testing and found that the pressure on the bonnet nearest the windscreen was higher than the pressure under the bonnet at the same point. As air moves from high pressure to low pressure the air actually flows back into the engine bay if it is vented near the windscreen. This is also why manufacturers install air vents along the base of the windscreen for airflow into the cabin of the car.

Edited March 9, 2009 by juggernaut1

[juggernaut1]

REF Bonnet spacers, I read that to so i tied some wool at each corner and in the middle just inside the bonnet and when i was cruising along between 60 kph and 160kph it was flowing up my windscreen which indicated to me there was good air flow coming out.

All good......sounds like the airflow depends on the particular car then.

Edited March 9, 2009 by juggernaut1

[juggernaut1]

And as far as them catching on fire, I have yet to see that, and cooking a turbine? We are running an HX52 on a 25 at 2 bar and have had no problems except snapping both rear axels at around 700rwhp.

So to clarify...your running a beanie on this car?

[The Bogan]

My backyard physics with wool and duct tape is lightyears ahead of computers and gauges, LOL.

[radix]

So to clarify...your running a beanie on this car?

Correct

[allthewaytotheskyline]

Do you mean I need to worry about ex gas temps or just the manifold temp. The manifold is also double ceramic coated internally and externally (as is the turbine). My hot and cold intercooler pipes are also ceramic coated.

I've thought about sheilding the manifold (top mount) with the ACL heat shield (as used on XR6 turbos), blanketting the turbine and wrapping the dump and gate pipes.

I've also got a vented bonnet on the way.

Am I on the right track......do you see any accelerated heat fatique issues I should worry about as a consequence of blanketting and wrapping.

Cheers,

sorry a bit off topic but where did you get your manifold ceramic coated and what was the procedure and cost...very interested.

[juggernaut1]

The place was called Competition and Industrial Coatings in Perth. Cant remember cost off the top of my head. They do the inside and outside of the manifold (and ex housing) in a double layer coat of the black extreme coating.

Here's an example of their work:

[The Bogan]

Nice