Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been contemplating with the idea of a beanie but have also heard mixed opinions on them "for" & "against"

Running a high mount set up the beanie is a nice easy way of helping engine temps and also budget compared to getting my manifold sent away and coated. Im going to wrap my dump pipe and obviously make up a new heat shield but still wondering if its worth running a beanie or not and also interested to hear others opinions???

Cheers Ben

I ended up buying a beanie from hp in a box.....and I've gotta say I'm impressed with the quality and fitment of the product. Most of the beanies I see look like a bloody silver nappy wrapped around the housing but the hp in a box item was a much nicer item.

Had it on when the car was being dyno and it certainly helped temps.

I'll post up a picture when I get the chance.

Cheers

My turbo s2k was on the dyno yesterday to bed in the rings and I had a chance to measure the heat in the exhaust side with an IR heat gun. It was on the dyno for hours so this really simulated hot track condition.

I used to have a beanie on the Turbo but did not think I need it since all of my exhaust side was ceramic heat coated. The pipe to my wastegate was not coated and is heat wrapped though.

Anyway the result was amazing. The wrap is more effective than the heat coating. It was roughly 40 C lower. Could have been the good Tomei wrap I used. The whole manifold was glowing red hot during most of the initial run. It reached 500C at some stage during the tune. No wonder why the mainifold wrap never last as long as people like.

If I have to do it again I would heat wrap rather than coat. Many coating places don't recommend coating + wrap because the wrap traps the heat and the heat wears off the paint. I am putting my turbo beanie back on, will fabricate some more heat shield and may be add an air duct to the exhaust manifold.

Has anyone had cracks in the exhaust manifold from heat wrap?

  • 1 year later...
The place was called Competition and Industrial Coatings in Perth. Cant remember cost off the top of my head. They do the inside and outside of the manifold (and ex housing) in a double layer coat of the black extreme coating.

Here's an example of their work:

SR20Build007.jpg

Man that engine bay is awesome-nice work mate.

Big thanks to all the guys who posted in here-helped me out heaps :)

Has anyone had cracks in the exhaust manifold from heat wrap?

Common with Stainless pipes I do believe-shouldnt be too much of an issue with Mild steel systems due to Mild steel having less expansion than Stainles-once again maybe wrong here too but its what I heard my exhaust guys say

i had a jap brand stainless manifold cracking without heat wrap, it cracked at the weld on the collector

i think stainless manifold is just prone to cracking because of its mass and how it has to support the weight of turbo, dump etc..

spoke to a rep at GCG, they said cracking stainless manifolds are quite common, regardless of whether its Chinese/ Japanese/ local/wrapped/ not wrapped

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
    • Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff. Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 
    • The axels in my R33 seem tired, and have a bit of play in them. I cannot find any new of course, not interested in buying used, but I am looking to see if anyone can identify some cross compatible axles. In the states I have seen suggested for S chassis the J30 axles, however for the skyline (as best I can tell) the lengths are about an inch off (2.5cm) on both sides. R33 my measure L 22" R 24.5" GPT L 22.5" 24.25" J30 L 23.5" 25.5"  so shaft length is probably an inch wider. Not sure if someone has another still remanufactured option besides the J30. I figured worst case I can buy a pair tear them down and swap the center shaft. My other option was reaching out to GSP to see if they cannot piece together a set, since the axle stubs are still manufactured, I wouldn't think it be that hard to find a shaft or make a shaft work. 
×
×
  • Create New...