Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2x stock R32 dump pipes. $15 each

Universal rear muff, looks like 2in inlet. good condish. $40 Have also got a 'hotdog' resonator I will chuck in with this.

s5003521jg2.th.jpg

Stock R32 front upper arms with what look like aftermarket urethane bushes - $50

s5003518jr9.th.jpg

RB20 AFM - in good nick, with mesh and stuff still intact. $100

s5003524jm5.th.jpg

2 pairs of wheels, both 5x114.3

16 x 8 +38 Watanabe $150

s5003527cj8.th.jpg

16 x 9 +13 VIP style $250

s5003529ry6.th.jpg

Will do all 4 for $350 B)

Located in SA, nearish Mt Barker. Prices are firm as the shit is bulk cheap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260262-last-of-my-crap-fs-for-now-p/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Okay the muff is now residing on my Sil and the wheels will probably be kept for skids in said car at a later date.

Someone can have the dump pipes for a KFC Fillets Box (NOT hot n spicy) and I also have a set of CA silvia stockies FS with good tread for $100.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You would probably do a lot better in a claims process then most people. When I called the insurance company, they were surprised I read the pds because according to them almost no one does lol.
    • Yeah it should be, but I wouldn't be surprised if the insurance company tries to pull some argument out of their ass to avoid paying you out.
    • On some cars like MR2 Turbos they're notorious for not letting the wastegate open far enough to avoid overboost, especially certain cheap downpipes. If adjusting "percentage cycle" fixes it then it's just an electronic control issue, not a hardware one.
    • Same.  It's depressing to say this but the skyline can go months on the charger between drives. 
    • I often leave mine connected weeks at a time. The main one I use is the old model of this, it has 2 important features - choose battery chemistry other than lead acid (most of mine are AGM) - power supply mode which you can use to try and recover dead flat batteries as "smart" chargers often don't recognise a dead flat battery is connected https://www.projecta.com.au/products/IC10/intellicharge-10a-bat-chgr The Ctek I  use was meant to have a battery test mode as well but it doesn't work 100% of the time so I am pissed at them. The distributor did everything possible to make warranty and support difficult so I'll stay away in future. The main thing with a "trickle" charger is it has multi stage programs, ie once the battery is full it turns the current right down to just maintain the charge....in the old days we just used real "trickle" chargers for that which had a maximum output of say 500mA which was safe to just leave connected to dumb old lead batteries.
×
×
  • Create New...