Jump to content
SAU Community

Best Tires For Drifting That Dont Delaminate In Chunks!


Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Took my 33 to sandown on the weekend for the drift day on brand new Bridgestone Potenza RE050A- 245/45/18.

These tires are grippy as! But are the worst when it comes to form in which they wear out. Rather than smoothly wearing out they were simply just losing big chunks & strings of rubber. To the extent now where the tires still have 80% tread left but are now losing air because some chunks that have come off are obviously a little too deep...

For my next set, i want a tire that last much longer through punishment and wears out smoothly without strings and chunks coming off. I also dont care about how grippy they are. As long as they wear out the right way.

Ive heard Falkens are suitable for what im after??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

anything besides a bridgestone, i found anything from them is gonna fall to bits, i found the same with the 18inch feddy's, 17 inch feddy's hold up awesome, i've just changed to Kuhmo tyres, they hold together all the way to the belts with minimal grip change

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome... i was amazed by just how bad the bridgestones reacted to this stuff... just horrifying.

Im guessing id also be looking to go for hard compound tires over soft compound?? Hard compound wear out slower right? and have less grip..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Took my 33 to sandown on the weekend for the drift day on brand new Bridgestone Potenza RE050A- 245/45/18.

These tires are grippy as! But are the worst when it comes to form in which they wear out. Rather than smoothly wearing out they were simply just losing big chunks & strings of rubber. To the extent now where the tires still have 80% tread left but are now losing air because some chunks that have come off are obviously a little too deep...

For my next set, i want a tire that last much longer through punishment and wears out smoothly without strings and chunks coming off. I also dont care about how grippy they are. As long as they wear out the right way.

Ive heard Falkens are suitable for what im after??

haha could have asked anyone whos drifted for a bit and they will tell u potenzas are shocking for delam, owell expensive lesson.

what price range are u looking at?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you don't have tyre marks on your rear quarters, then you're not trying hard enough. :D

On a more serious note... I've found grippy tyres better for drifting (provided you have enough power to spin them in the first place) as you can correct and control far easier... so I wouldn't just get some hard compound tyre.

As for tyre wear, I've found Falken Azenis to be the best personally... they don't break up in chunks, are still grippy when hot etc... but they do wear out pretty quick compared to the falken fk-451 or fk-452. Yokohama AVS (think they're E100's or something) are pretty good too, they have reinforced sidewalls (so no sidewall bubbling from repeat runs) and stand up to heat better than most others. Altho it does break up in chunks.

Most of the competition cars the workshop prepared used Toyo Proxes T1S'. I don't really rate them too well cos they wear out too quick. But when you've got a limitless sponsor supply of tyres as the drivers of the cars do, I suppose that doesn't matter.

So in summary, i'd go:

Flaken FK 451's over Falken Azenis over Yokohama AVS. Splash out on T1-S if you have money to burn.

I'm about to try out a Kumho KU17 and KU31 combo soon hopefully, so we'll see how we go with that, never tried Kumho's before.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Really appreciate your input guys.

Well my car is a street car that i also take on the track, has plenty of power to spin grippy tires but I have a mortgage and cant exactly afford to change tires too frequently so i am after the following sought of tire:

-Something that doesnt come appart in chunks!

-Something that lasts LONG

-The amount of grip does not concern me, just want it to last long.

-And most importantly, something CHEAP!

If you guys can give me the answer to the tire that offers the above id MUCH appreciate it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Potenza's delam bad. Best I've ever used were Falkens. They were amazing at winton, I couldn't kill em. can't remember the model but I just buy them second hand as they come...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some I have used recently

595 Federals: Feather up pretty bad but doesn't really matter on the rear. Also cheap. Some people choose to run them backwards.

Hankook Ventus 104s: Secondhand and no delam problems. Average grip levels. Lasted well.

Assorted Toyos: Turned to butter once really hot and became very slippery. Lasted quite well but did start to delam once really hot.

Any Bridgestone: As everyone has said delam. Apparently if you run them through certain heat cycles they wont but why bother.

Intensa: delam, last 2 laps on low powered car, average grip

Edited by gunmetalgrey
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Really appreciate your input guys.

Well my car is a street car that i also take on the track, has plenty of power to spin grippy tires but I have a mortgage and cant exactly afford to change tires too frequently so i am after the following sought of tire:

-Something that doesnt come appart in chunks!

-Something that lasts LONG

-The amount of grip does not concern me, just want it to last long.

-And most importantly, something CHEAP!

If you guys can give me the answer to the tire that offers the above id MUCH appreciate it!

http://hardtuned.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=334752

i just tried admirals and they lasted pretty well, took some serious arse drags as well, and no signs of delam. pressure also has a lot to do with it, make sure u dont run too much.

ive always found that if ur gonna go 2nd hand, go dunlops, dunno why but all 2nd hand dunlops ive used seem to last and last without delaming.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you really, really, don't care about grip, get a cheap set of rims and put some cheap second hand tires on them, and only put them on when you go to the track. For added bonus also go with the above trick of soaking to make them harder.

Edited by sneakey pete
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i had falken fk452s on the 32. lasted me ages but the car didn't really spin the wheels much... not really enough power in a stock gtst to get the tires spinning much.

i did however have some crappy nexens on the back end when i first bought the car. lasted forever... till i picked up a nail in one... not the best grip, but they'll do the right thing imo if you're just going sliding

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...