Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have a quick question, My r32 is stock and i feel like theres lag in the turbo.

I've heard from people they said that there should be no turbo lag since its a twin turbo because it uses 1 at lower revs and 1 at higher revs.

When i do test my car, i think the turbo kicks in around 3000rpm (thats when i feel the power :|).

By the way im not a reckless driver and normally dont speed, so im not too sure if this is normal for my car or could it be some problem with the turbo? could it be the set up? or some electric problem?

Please help me settle this problem.

Cheers guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260396-r32-gtr-stock-performance/
Share on other sites

you are thinking about a sequential turbo set up like in a liberty, GTR's turbos run simultaneously, one feeds off exhaust from front three cylinders, the other off the three back cylinders, their charge is joined prior to entry through the intercooler, then into plenum, and fed into cylinders to mix and explode with ya go go gas

"The engine also uses a parallel twin turbo system. The turbo system is arranged so that the front turbo is powered by the front 3 cylinders, and the rear turbo is powered by the rear 3 cylinders. The turbo chargers are of equal size, and are set by the wastegates to limit boost pressure to 14.7 psi, although the Skyline GT-R has a built in boost restrictor to keep boost under 10 psi."

yeah 3 - 3,500rpm usually is when you start to see the light at the end of the tunnel!!!

:D

I've heard from people they said that there should be no turbo lag since its a twin turbo because it uses 1 at lower revs and 1 at higher revs.

Stop taking their advice - they're wrong :(

Supra's also have sequential turbos (and they are shit) FYI

A great way to combat that pesky sluggish period below 3000rpm is to rev the car to 4-5000rpm and dump the clutch :(

On a more serious note.. Definition of "Turbo Lag": Within a turbocharger's operating range (ie. in your case about 3000-7000rpm), lag is the delay between the instant a car's accelerator is depressed and the time the turbocharged engine develops a large fraction of the power available at that point in the engine's power curve.

Below 3000rpm the engine doesnt flow enough exhaust gas to spin the turbine fast enough to make boost. So what you're experiencing isnt actually "turbo lag" by definition :cheers:

You'll be suprised how much nicer they act at 15psi :D

But yeah they're pretty crappy turbos, and the ceramic wheels are dodgy as all hell. I doubt you'll find anyone on here who wouldnt recommend changing them as soon as the budget allows :P The most responsive direct replacements are HKS GTSS, or Garrett 2860-7's for the budget minded.

Enjoy!

You'll be suprised how much nicer they act at 15psi :D

But yeah they're pretty crappy turbos, and the ceramic wheels are dodgy as all hell. I doubt you'll find anyone on here who wouldnt recommend changing them as soon as the budget allows :P The most responsive direct replacements are HKS GTSS, or Garrett 2860-7's for the budget minded.

Enjoy!

This quote is true, chuck on new turbos asap. When those turbo's go bang, which may be in the not too distant future, the ceramic dust stuffs your engine. I have N1's in mine (all steel), i think they are the same size as the stock ones and they are heppy to sit on 1.2 bar. Good Luck!

GTR system is definately not a sequential turbo setup. Easy way to check how your boost is going is go buy a $40 boost gauge and see whats happening, you could have a vac leak or one of your actuators playing up or even worse a turbo problem.

If you need to replace them get some HKS 2510/30/40's great turbos.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
    • Just putting it out there, that's a decent list. You would be better off *not* doing *any* of that and buying someone else's modded car. Like mine. Or anybody else's. Yes it's lotto dependent and all this and that but that 70K (remember, double your guesses) could go elsewhere. Keep it stock, save your money, go lowball @Dose Pipe Sutututu :p
    • Does not mean what you think it means. The continual rising coefficient is the coefficient of friction that continues to rise with increasing temperature. Not "rising during a single stop", except inasmuch as the brakes should get hotter during a single stop. The RR would not be the best choice for a streeter. Yeah....no it's not. JAX would rummage around in the "shit pads we use for all shitboxen that come in here" and install those.
×
×
  • Create New...