Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

its quite hard to get an estimate for a price of a tune because there is an endless continuim of tuning quality. at the end of the day your better going to a reputable tuner who you trust not to rip you off.

Also another point is that tuners save the calibrations of EVERY car they tune along with a full set of notes, so as much as youd like to believe your getting a tune from scratch, often tuners will find a previous calibration and start from there, which saves time and hopefully money.

I cant say ive heard of microtchs going out of tune, sounds strange. perhaps one option would be to save your calibration on your computer so you can reload it to the microtech everytime the car doesnt run right.

also its a good idea to run an O2 sensor, especially a wideband, so the computer can run closed loop, as its often more economical and smoother running when cruising

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

N1GTR would you mind enlightening me on how that was possible?

And yeah had it been me (who wouldn't have gotten a Microtech in the first place), Id've gotten it tuned with an 02 sensor of some type. Apparently they can be tuned to be as economical without though, but I'm not sure.

Edited by bozodos
its quite hard to get an estimate for a price of a tune because there is an endless continuim of tuning quality. at the end of the day your better going to a reputable tuner who you trust not to rip you off.

Also another point is that tuners save the calibrations of EVERY car they tune along with a full set of notes, so as much as youd like to believe your getting a tune from scratch, often tuners will find a previous calibration and start from there, which saves time and hopefully money.

I cant say ive heard of microtchs going out of tune, sounds strange. perhaps one option would be to save your calibration on your computer so you can reload it to the microtech everytime the car doesnt run right.

also its a good idea to run an O2 sensor, especially a wideband, so the computer can run closed loop, as its often more economical and smoother running when cruising

i know i was getting a tune from scratch. first gtr on a wolf v500 that my tuner/mechanic had done.

but you are correct. and in a lot of cases this is a very good idea. it's basically the same as having a base map like a power fc etc.

Its not a good idea to tune with 02 sensor feedback on, as it will always give you varied results and the ECU will be constantly correcting etc, its nasty, if you know how to tune, you can get good economy and smooth cruise without closed loop.

N1GTR would you mind enlightening me on how that was possible?

And yeah had it been me (who wouldn't have gotten a Microtech in the first place), Id've gotten it tuned with an 02 sensor of some type. Apparently they can be tuned to be as economical without though, but I'm not sure.

If i could remember, i would

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock RB fuel pressure is near enough 43.5 psi, so the latency in that table at 31.6 will be close. You can see that 7 or 8 psi equates to about 0.4µs extra latency. So if you wanted to interpolate between the 31.6 and 39.9 psi values you could say you're going up about 2 psi out of those 8, so add about 0.1µs, which is barely worth talking about and is quite possibly wrong because ideally you would fix the latency while running at the appropriate conditions on the dyno, with a wideband sniffing its butt.
    • The pressure, is what you set the fuel pressure to. If you have the factory fuel reg, you'll need to find the factory spec. I don't know it off the top of my head, but someone else might.
    • For others, what GTSBoy states here should be paid attention. Why? Well lots of people play with different engines, and they LOVE to change things like remove AC, or steering pumps etc, and it lends to them needing to move the tensioner too. You want your tensioner, particularly those that are sprung or hydraulically tensioned, to be the first thing after the harmonic balancer, or technically the "last" pulley in the chain. By saying last pulley, I mean look at the direction the crank spins when the engine is running, follow the belt from where the crank is pulling the belt FROM, and keep following that until you're between the last pulley/accessory on the belt and about to reach the crank again, this is the spot where you put the tensioner. This is the area that will always end up with slack. This is worked out exactly the same way for chains too, as the physics is the same for them. The crank pulley is where all the force to drag the belt around comes from. You will never ever get rid of the slack that appears, especially under load. The tensioners job is to keep the belt loose enough when stationary that there shouldn't be out of sync movement in slow movement, and then be tight enough when running, that the belt can't jump off any gear and get damaged. Too tight, bad things happen, too loose, bad things happen. Have a tensioner (mainly sprung/hydraulic one) in the wrong spot, it can't actually do anything about keeping the tension.
    • It was gonna take much longer for the 440cc so I'd thought I'd risk it with the 550cc. They finally arrived and I couldn't wait any longer (I could but I was quite excited after 2 months) and installed them myself. Removed the old injectors, inserted the new and connected everything up. Before starting the car, I tuned the injector size from the factory 270cc to 550cc using Nistune.   This did some of the calculations automatically which catered for the TIM. The latency however did not seem to change. Deatschwerks have the tuning data available for each injector online, and I had a look at it. It has a table which relates to latency according to pressure and voltage (see below image). Nistune requires the 14v value, but I am unsure of which pressure value to look at (my lack of knowledge and experience have something to do with this). The highlighted value is close to my current latency which is 760µs. It is for 14v which makes sense, and the pressure is 31.6 Psi.   I still gave the car a test drive to see how it goes, and honestly it has never felt so powerful before (and some people say the RB20DE is very weak?). I really enjoyed the drive. Side note; The injectors are quite noisy, which someone mentioned before. This does not really bother me however. I will still ask my mechanic to have a look at it and perhaps ask a tuner to fine tune it if they have the knowledge.
    • Also true. But imagine not wanting new injectors? Imagine wanting to use 30 year old injectors?
×
×
  • Create New...