Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I've got an R34 GTT with the following basic mods..

  • Turbo back exhaust
  • FMIC
  • HKS BOV
  • Air Pod
  • AVCR running high boost of 0.80 bar
  • Nismo Stune suspension

I am now at a cross road trying to decide what my nex move should be. What do you guys recommend and what are the costs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260764-what-to-do-next/
Share on other sites

depends how much you want to spend and what power you want.

Next step from that is a replacement ecu, nistune or piggy back. That wont really give you any more power. Probably just improve response and be a heap smoother. Your fuel economy may also get better.

Next step is a bigger turbo but depending on your desired power you will need alot of other components to support it. Ranging from 4-8k depending on your choice of parts and labour by yourself or by a mechanic. Also might not be worth it if the car has done alot of kms may need rebuild first then your talking 7-10k for that. By that stage your telling yourself ive gone this far i might want a new plenum, manifold the list goes on.

I say go for a nistune or some other ecu and keep your hard earned cash unless your loaded have some fun then.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260764-what-to-do-next/#findComment-4473067
Share on other sites

hey mate. i am/kinda in the same boot as you are with my 34. heres is the thread i started http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Next-t255192.html

iv only got a few liitle things more then what you have.

i presonally will ditch the AVCR get a PFC which is around $1400ish, followed by injectors (600cc would be looking at $900ish), cam gears and get that tuned up. that should see you with good gains. then dtch the stock turbo for a high flow one or something bigger.

i pretty much have all of the above except by injecteros are only 480cc and thats seeing me at a safe 240rwkw till i get cams and bigger injectors running 16psi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260764-what-to-do-next/#findComment-4473069
Share on other sites

Really depends on your power goal...

You have missed a fuel pump though - these are vital and should not be overlooked. No fuel = big expensive bang...

If it were me I'd be looking at what you want out of it i.e. do you just want to go faster or want more response etc.

Mods wise i'd get:

- Fuel pump

- Injectors (If power is going >250kw)

- ECU

- Turbo upgrade

All your other supporting stuff like manifolds and plenums should be good until you get really serious.

My 2 cents

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260764-what-to-do-next/#findComment-4473154
Share on other sites

i presonally will ditch the AVCR get a PFC which is around $1400ish, followed by injectors (600cc would be looking at $900ish), cam gears and get that tuned up. that should see you with good gains. then dtch the stock turbo for a high flow one or something bigger.

AVCR is a boost controller, even with a power fc you still need one, unless you buy a pfc boost kit which would be pointless if he already has an avcr

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260764-what-to-do-next/#findComment-4473970
Share on other sites

Hi Guys,

I've got an R34 GTT with the following basic mods..

  • Turbo back exhaust
  • FMIC
  • HKS BOV
  • Air Pod
  • AVCR running high boost of 0.80 bar
  • Nismo Stune suspension

I am now at a cross road trying to decide what my nex move should be. What do you guys recommend and what are the costs.

As mentioned in another post;

http://www.yournutz.com/store/images/tall%20ball.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260764-what-to-do-next/#findComment-4474043
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
×
×
  • Create New...