Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi every body :)

i am thinking of buying a cheep cat and hollowing it out and then welding in a pipe so that i dont get flow stagnation and so if i get pulled over and a cop checks under the car it will look like the cat is still there.

and i will keep the old one so i can put it back on if i have to go threw the pits.

what dose every body think

will i get more power?

has any body else done it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260780-a-quick-exhaust-question/
Share on other sites

You mean... decat.

Flames, etc.

It's awesome. Don't listen to Greenpeace. Just do it.

And I have a cat on my GTR and I still get black shit all over my rear bumper... runs rich. You'll get black shit regardless if you have a cat or no cat.

Edited by CRoNic...

thx CRoNic... for that explanation about black shit

i was thinking like what the f**k black shit why

i will see if i can pick a old cat for cheep probs next week

any ideas ?

i was thinking of checking the quokka and if that is a no go i will check out wreckers

possible cop trouble, and heaps of black shit all over your car.. for a couple of kw? you gotta be kidding.

just buy a decent hi flow cat mate...

my 2c

im with him on this case.

I hate it when cars dont have cats in them. They smell like shit.

I have a cat in mine and i can safely say i have no black shit @ all on my rear bumper.

All the cars ive seen with no cat or that is fitted with a decat does.

Do the right thing by ur car and get a hi flow.

just to put some myths to bed regardings exhausts and cats etc etc. In all but extreme power uses there is no need for huge catless exhausts.

As gases cool they contract and as such the requirement for hight flow rates reduces. The times that cats do get hit by masses of flaming hot shit is normally when you close the throttle and rich spot travels down the exhaust. I think most people will agree that during lift off is one time when your really not going to give a crap about exhaust restrictions.

Just get a good high flow and inconjunction with a good exhaust and you'll be just fine.

Just that if you're running a rich tune, it can cause the cat to become blocked and not work properly, which then isn't diagnosed until the exhaust starts leaking out of every possible little gap lol.

So run a proper tune and recoup the cost of a cat and your tuners' time in a few weeks.

Honestly if you run rich enough to bugger a cat you are a f**king moron wasting fuel wasting power and wasting money! Get it tuned.

I had a friend with an EVO4 who ran so rich we used to get on the radio after he gave it a hit and go "thanks mate my fuel gauge just went up!". His engine needed a REBUILD 6 months later.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...