Stalling Stag

[96RS4V]

well, the stag is stalling. i'm presuming that its an AT issue primarily because when the car is warm (seems to run completely fine on cold start and idle in neutral is fine and steady), i start to get issues when slowing to a stop - engine revs drop RIGHT down, as though trans isn't dropping down gears? once these games have begun it stalls intermitently during accellerating when it need to shift up as well. engine revs drop right off to nothing, though it will intermittently pick up again as though the trans catches like when you jump start a manual. it's been doing this for a couple of weeks now because i've not had the cash to get it sorted. went to have it looked at the other day and was told it was the fuel filter being block up which while understandable why they thought that, doesn't ring right with me.

so i've got a couple of questions:

1. does my diagnosis seem reasonable? if you need more info before you can say yay or nay, let me know.

2. does anyone know of a reputable auto trans servicing centre they can recommend in perth?

or does anyone have a consult cable and software than can read the fault codes for me?

cheers,

Dave.

[_Ryan_]

do you still have your standard BOV in place? have you blocked it or removed/replaced it?

[RBPOWA-(TJ)]

yeah mine did that when i put the breaks on also, would just about stall.

i had a transmission gasket leak. loss i pressure i put it down to.

now im up for a rebuild LOL ! take it to any trans workshop who can hook it up to there comp, or nissan dealer best bet. dont leave it too long. left mine for about 12,000km's and got the worst result hehe

all the best dude

[96RS4V]

do you still have your standard BOV in place? have you blocked it or removed/replaced it?

yep she's still a complete stocker apart from the almost mandatory stereo upgrade. why's that?

"yeah mine did that when i put the breaks on also, would just about stall.

i had a transmission gasket leak. loss i pressure i put it down to.

now im up for a rebuild LOL ! take it to any trans workshop who can hook it up to there comp, or nissan dealer best bet. dont leave it too long. left mine for about 12,000km's and got the worst result hehe

all the best dude"

yowsers - i'll be a little pissed if i'm up for a rebuilt only 8months after buying it

any idea of ball parks prices i'd be looking at for an AT service?

[pixel8r]

hmm my M35's been doing that lately. i've been questioning the transmission ever since i bought it...

Had the trans serviced only 2-3 months ago though...so hopefully its not the trans for me...i think mine's more related to steering somehow...but anyway.

[Jezboosted]

If you don't know how long it's been since it has had a replacement fuel filter, I would at least just do it for the sake of it. They are inexpensive and as far as i am aware, look pretty straight forward to do as it is nice and accessible in the engine bay.

[96RS4V]

If you don't know how long it's been since it has had a replacement fuel filter, I would at least just do it for the sake of it. They are inexpensive and as far as i am aware, look pretty straight forward to do as it is nice and accessible in the engine bay.

had this done the other day, no difference - stalled about 200m up the road from the service place. initially i thought it was related to my p/steering as well, however had steering pump fixed at the same time, still stalling. have done some additional searching and people have been having the same prob tracked back to various sensors such as engine temp and air flow meter. will have a look in fast tonight when i get home to see about replacing them

[M I K E]

not sure if it will fix your problem but reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery, pressing the brake pedal a couple of times and leaving the car for half hour or so. then come back and connect it up again and let the ecu start fresh

[RBPOWA-(TJ)]

ball park figure for a service ... $150 . . .

i only owned mine for about 8months i think. previous owner had it for 11months (finacial problems, nice guy)

i just got the ticking time bomb, car's done 107,000kms now, got it at 84,000 if those numbers match up, get the service kit done, that ways its open for a reason, get them to do some ECU testing, in one hit

[96RS4V]

ball park figure for a service ... $150 . . .

i only owned mine for about 8months i think. previous owner had it for 11months (finacial problems, nice guy)

i just got the ticking time bomb, car's done 107,000kms now, got it at 84,000 if those numbers match up, get the service kit done, that ways its open for a reason, get them to do some ECU testing, in one hit

cheers mate, will try get it done next week sometime - going to be riding for a little bit i think

" not sure if it will fix your problem but reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery, pressing the brake pedal a couple of times and leaving the car for half hour or so. then come back and connect it up again and let the ecu start fresh "

cheers mike, will try both the ecu and AT comp in the drivers side kick panel as well when i get home tonight.

Dave.

[RBPOWA-(TJ)]

OFF TOPIC

oh yeah and something i found out also, (just a little easier for people to read)

click the QUOTE tab on the post you wish to quote,

if you wanna quote a few, the tab will go red, then you can click on the next quote and so forth....

then when done click ADD REPLY and thats were they'll all be took me some time to work it also

[BensDR30]

Where might you be located Dave?

[Lil_Bobby_260]

If it were just under braking i would have thought your brake booster has a vacuum leak but if its playing up shifiting upwards through gears you could be in dramas. A service never hurts - its something that should be done routinely anyway so may as well do it and if it fixes your problem then sweet.

Definitely sounds like a leak tho. Did you try the ECU flash...?

[mattye]

well, the stag is stalling. i'm presuming that its an AT issue primarily because when the car is warm (seems to run completely fine on cold start and idle in neutral is fine and steady), i start to get issues when slowing to a stop - engine revs drop RIGHT down, as though trans isn't dropping down gears? once these games have begun it stalls intermitently during accellerating when it need to shift up as well. engine revs drop right off to nothing, though it will intermittently pick up again as though the trans catches like when you jump start a manual. it's been doing this for a couple of weeks now because i've not had the cash to get it sorted. went to have it looked at the other day and was told it was the fuel filter being block up which while understandable why they thought that, doesn't ring right with me.

so i've got a couple of questions:

1. does my diagnosis seem reasonable? if you need more info before you can say yay or nay, let me know.

2. does anyone know of a reputable auto trans servicing centre they can recommend in perth?

or does anyone have a consult cable and software than can read the fault codes for me?

cheers,

Dave.

Sounds reasonable buddy...loss of fuel would deffinatly do this, and seams its not an expensive thing to replace a fuel filter try it first. If it doesn't work at least you've got a clean fuel filter in.

But on the other hand does the M35 run a accelerator cable or is it electronicaly controlled?

My mates BA ute(ford) is having similar probs at the moment. The mechanic thought it was the throtle possision sensor/swithch. Just another idea.

Edited March 13, 2009 by mattye

[pixel8r]

Sounds reasonable buddy...loss of fuel would deffinatly do this, and seams its not an expensive thing to replace a fuel filter try it first. If it doesn't work at least you've got a clean fuel filter in.

But on the other hand does the M35 run a accelerator cable or is it electronicaly controlled?

My mates BA ute(ford) is having similar probs at the moment. The mechanic thought it was the throtle possision sensor/swithch. Just another idea.

Hope i'm not confusing things by what I posted. I think the original post was about a series 1 stag. Mine is an M35 and I'm not 100% sure but I dont think it has a fuel filter. It does have drive-by-wire though. The s1 stag has a fuel filter but not electronic throttle.

mine's due for a service sometime so will just get it looked at then.

[andy65b]

Hope i'm not confusing things by what I posted. I think the original post was about a series 1 stag. Mine is an M35 and I'm not 100% sure but I dont think it has a fuel filter. It does have drive-by-wire though. The s1 stag has a fuel filter but not electronic throttle.

mine's due for a service sometime so will just get it looked at then.

I solved my M35 stalling problem by having the TPS (throttle position switch) reset. I am not sure if this will help you but it did stop the stalling. It does now idle about 100rpm higher than I would like but it is better than stalling every I pulled up quickly. It now idles around 800 - 850 rpm in neutral and it is meant to be 750 rpm.

To reset the TPS it is just a sequence of turning the ignition on and off with minimum time for each part.

1) turn ignition on for at least 2 second.

2) turn ignition off for at least 10 seconds.

3) turn ignition on for at least 2 seconds.

4) turn ignotion off for at least 10 seconds.

this is meant to reset the TPS.

I think the stalling may be slightly to do with the TPS but I suspect it is also to do with either the O2 sensor or the spark plugs. This is not a definate answer but it is my gut feeling.

Cheers

Andy

[pixel8r]

I solved my M35 stalling problem by having the TPS (throttle position switch) reset. I am not sure if this will help you but it did stop the stalling. It does now idle about 100rpm higher than I would like but it is better than stalling every I pulled up quickly. It now idles around 800 - 850 rpm in neutral and it is meant to be 750 rpm.

To reset the TPS it is just a sequence of turning the ignition on and off with minimum time for each part.

1) turn ignition on for at least 2 second.

2) turn ignition off for at least 10 seconds.

3) turn ignition on for at least 2 seconds.

4) turn ignotion off for at least 10 seconds.

this is meant to reset the TPS.

I think the stalling may be slightly to do with the TPS but I suspect it is also to do with either the O2 sensor or the spark plugs. This is not a definate answer but it is my gut feeling.

Cheers

Andy

Awesome!! Hopefully this works for me. I didn't realise there was such a way to do this...

Mine idles on 500rpm (no kidding) sometimes less but the needle wont show much below 500rpm - and about 600-700rpm with a/c on. I know it should be higher than this and it doesn't just affect idle, it feels a bit dead sometimes when just cruising along - like it just drops out until i touch the accelerator again.

The other thing it affects is that it rolls backwards if i'm on an upward incline and i lift my foot off the accelerator. normally auto's shouldn't do this but ours does and its a bit disconcerting :S

Hopefully this is a simple fix otherwise I've thought maybe I need to get the idle adjusted (can you do that?).

Its really only started stalling lately - and only with a/c off (a/c lifts the revs a bit you see) so I'm pretty certain its just something simple like the above. Will let you know what happens...

Other suspicions i have are air-flow meter or spark plugs (no idea what they used in compliance).

[andy65b]

Awesome!! Hopefully this works for me. I didn't realise there was such a way to do this...

Mine idles on 500rpm (no kidding) sometimes less but the needle wont show much below 500rpm - and about 600-700rpm with a/c on. I know it should be higher than this and it doesn't just affect idle, it feels a bit dead sometimes when just cruising along - like it just drops out until i touch the accelerator again.

The other thing it affects is that it rolls backwards if i'm on an upward incline and i lift my foot off the accelerator. normally auto's shouldn't do this but ours does and its a bit disconcerting :S

Hopefully this is a simple fix otherwise I've thought maybe I need to get the idle adjusted (can you do that?).

Its really only started stalling lately - and only with a/c off (a/c lifts the revs a bit you see) so I'm pretty certain its just something simple like the above. Will let you know what happens...

Other suspicions i have are air-flow meter or spark plugs (no idea what they used in compliance).

There is no way to adjust the idle speed. It is all done from the TPS and the computer.

Try and look for the G35 service manual on line. Lots of useful information that relates to our cars.

Cheers

Andy

[pixel8r]

There is no way to adjust the idle speed. It is all done from the TPS and the computer.

Try and look for the G35 service manual on line. Lots of useful information that relates to our cars.

Cheers

Andy

I've tried resetting the TPS like you said, and I've also cleaned the AFM and reset the ECU (disconnected battery), but its still doing the same thing. Drives fine out on the road but when idling it seems to drop really low then quickly steady itself at 500rpm, where it doesn't feel smooth since its idling too low. It does make the steering harder too when its revving this low.

Will check the manual but its looking like a faulty TPS or something like that. Any way to check ECU fault codes by myself? or do I need to take it to Nissan (or someone with a consult cable & software) to do that?

I knew a lot more about my old stagea (series 2) but with this one I'm having to start over...learning it all again.

[andy65b]

I've tried resetting the TPS like you said, and I've also cleaned the AFM and reset the ECU (disconnected battery), but its still doing the same thing. Drives fine out on the road but when idling it seems to drop really low then quickly steady itself at 500rpm, where it doesn't feel smooth since its idling too low. It does make the steering harder too when its revving this low.

Will check the manual but its looking like a faulty TPS or something like that. Any way to check ECU fault codes by myself? or do I need to take it to Nissan (or someone with a consult cable & software) to do that?

I knew a lot more about my old stagea (series 2) but with this one I'm having to start over...learning it all again.

You mentioned that you were not sure what they did with plugs at compliance. The standard plugs for these cars are Platinum or something similar and are good for 80-100k km.

I have been reading about the Blatz, IBDII software and cable and from what I have read, although there is a lot more to read, it should help with the fault codes and allow you to reset them. At about $200 bucks it sounds like a good investment.

http://www.blazt.biz/index.php

I have also listed below the info from the manual. Some of this may help.

Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning ABS0003L

DESCRIPTION

“Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning” is an operation to learn the fully released position of the accelerator

pedal by monitoring the accelerator pedal position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time

harness connector of accelerator pedal position sensor or ECM is disconnected.

OPERATION PROCEDURE

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.

2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.

3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.

5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning ABS0003M

DESCRIPTION

“Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning” is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve

by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of

electric throttle control actuator or ECM is disconnected.

OPERATION PROCEDURE

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.

2. Turn ignition switch “ON”.

3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Cheers

Andy