Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 years later...

Bringing a thread back from the dead

I recently got my car back on the road and have a 1000hp ati balancer on it

Cars only making 400hp

My ac belt has came off twice in two days first time completely gone and damaged power steering belt

2nd time belt came off still in one piece but ended up damaging my brand new radiator

Just normal driving on the street with your random squirts here and there and a few 8k clutch dumps to test out the new diffs

Has any one found a solution for this as I would like to keep my air con for summer

Never had this issue. I also run the 1000hp ATI balancer and have done for many years

I'd suggest looking elsewhere. Fitting/adjustment or another issue.

(435hp)

Edited by Sinista32

Bringing a thread back from the dead

I recently got my car back on the road and have a 1000hp ati balancer on it

Cars only making 400hp

My ac belt has came off twice in two days first time completely gone and damaged power steering belt

2nd time belt came off still in one piece but ended up damaging my brand new radiator

Just normal driving on the street with your random squirts here and there and a few 8k clutch dumps to test out the new diffs

Has any one found a solution for this as I would like to keep my air con for summer

How about selling the damper to someone with heaps more power than you and then you could buy a 500hp damper .

My ac belt has came off twice in two days first time completely gone and damaged power steering belt

2nd time belt came off still in one piece but ended up damaging my brand new radiator

Just normal driving on the street with your random squirts here and there and a few 8k clutch dumps to test out the new diffs

Has any one found a solution for this as I would like to keep my air con for summer

just curious (I dont have an ATI damper)

IF the proper belt is used and tensioned properly, together with a good condition ac pulley, how would the belt come off?

the grooves in the belt/pulley plus the lip on the pulley will hold the belt in place no?

unless the belt was loose/worn...or the damper was vibrating so much until the belt could slip over the grooves (which is highly impossible cos that means your engine would have been destroyed)

I would check the belt tension and make sure the ac is properly tightened :)

Defiantly have the right balancer

Why would I sell it and get the 500hp one?

I been doing some research and ati them self's don't recommend high rpm with the ac belt on I think this is due to being smaller then standard and the pully is spinning alot faster

So I might leave it off for now and when it starts getting hot I'll put it back on and just take it easy

Everything is tensioned right and correct belts are being used

Ditch the A/C prob solved.. I also have a ATI 1000hp balancer and im getting rid of my A/C as i wont be needing it anymore. If the car is going to be used purely for weekends im pretty sure you can survive with out A/C ?

Edited by Tyranus

Yeah that's what I'm going to do now I was trying to build a nice comfortable street car but who am I kidding I have front and rear lsds and a twin plate clutch

I'll keep the ac in for now and when it gets hot I'll put the belt back on

Why would I sell it and get the 500hp one?

Because you said this:

My ac belt has came off twice in two days first time completely gone and damaged power steering belt

2nd time belt came off still in one piece but ended up damaging my brand new radiator Has any one found a solution for this as I would like to keep my air con for summer

  • 1 year later...

Bumping an old thread

I got an ATI 1000hp balancer on my hks 2.8 stroker, had the ac belt come off on the Dyno, put a new belt on and 2 squirts later on the street found my ac belt has flipped upside down on the pulleys

Anyone know why? I just cut it off for now as its winter but ultimately I do want a working ac system and that I can drive the car without it always damaging belts

Ac tensioner has a new bearing

They warn you in the instructions about the a/c being overdriven and the belt should be removed when racing, not sure if that has anything to do with it though

Is that in turning on the AC or not? I can get any firm clarification. Would it matter if the AC was not engaged? Would it be the same as a stock balancer at 10,000 RPM?

I have herd you need to remove it for racing but my mate has same engine and balancer and it revs to the moon and always hitting limiter and never has issues so dunno why mine would through a belt after Afew squirts

Annoying

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...