Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

theres alot of info flying around in other areas of the forum, so i wanted a place for people to post up pictures and specs of their oil catch can installation. Please keep this very on topic.

I will be modifying my system soon so ill post up results once complete.

Here is a useful thread to read up on. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...ans-t68174.html

Here is SydneyKid's recommended RB25 setups. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...html&st=20#

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260910-oil-catch-cans/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

If anyone has any pictures of a RB26 with a oil catch can setup, that'd be awesome.

All I ever see is RB20's and RB25's with oil catch can setups with extreme diagrams and walk throughs.

Theres 3 that ive seen... ones the autech can that sits on top of the rb26 at the rear..

The other is one that sits in front of the battery - Blue32 had one of these

And theres another one which is an oil/air separator (nismo, non vented) that hides underneath the ABS unit...

Maybe andrew can take some pics of his current setup as from the sounds of it, its pretty bulletproof

-D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260910-oil-catch-cans/#findComment-4475132
Share on other sites

heres a can for the 50% plumb back option:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/UNIVERSAL-OIL-CATCH...A1%7C240%3A1318

3 in/outlets, removable top so you can pack it full of steel wool (in a stocking!)

That looks like a similar design to the one that ISC sells ;

http://www.isc-warehouse.com/index.php?mai...products_id=245

-D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260910-oil-catch-cans/#findComment-4475719
Share on other sites

heres a can for the 50% plumb back option:

2dcf_1.JPG

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/UNIVERSAL-OIL-CATCH...A1%7C240%3A1318

3 in/outlets, removable top so you can pack it full of steel wool (in a stocking!)

Hey, i got the same one as that...havent hooked it up yet but where do you connect the hose to at the bottom of the can- like where does it go to

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260910-oil-catch-cans/#findComment-4477065
Share on other sites

Drifters catch can of choice.

10527_coke11.jpg

Serious note.. I run 2 as its neater, I'm not a fan of hoses draped over the motor.

One either side of the motor feeding off that sides cam cover.

One sitting in the drivers side engine mount and the other behind the A/C compressor.

Since oiling mods the cans are always empty.

Edited by TheRogue
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260910-oil-catch-cans/#findComment-4477090
Share on other sites

Drifters catch can of choice.

10527_coke11.jpg

Serious note.. I run 2 as its neater, I'm not a fan of hoses draped over the motor.

One either side of the motor feeding off that sides cam cover.

One sitting in the drivers side engine mount and the other behind the A/C compressor.

Since oiling mods the cans are always empty.

Have you got a pic.....still deciding how i want my setup to look

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260910-oil-catch-cans/#findComment-4477097
Share on other sites

Have you got a pic.....still deciding how i want my setup to look

An engine bay pic would not be useful as it looks like a standard engine bay. You can't see hoses or catch cans.

I'm soon to rip the cams and lifters out again so I'll grab some pics of the bits underneath the manifolds.

If you can visualise...

The passenger cam breather that runs to the inlet pipe has be redirected in to the catch can that resides behind the a/c compressor / under the exh. manifold.

The hose that runs from the drivers side cam cover to the PCV/plenum has been blocked and a T piece positioned in the middle; a hose connects to the bottom T piece connection and runs under the manifold to the engine mount where the catch can is located.

Really depends on how tidy you want the engine bay to look.

Edited by TheRogue
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260910-oil-catch-cans/#findComment-4477486
Share on other sites

RB26dett catch can set up.

Heres a thread for the autech type over the head unit

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/JJ...nt-t166910.html

It's a sealed catch can and has no breather and so is legal thru regency (they might say otherwise, but the legislation allows oil/air separators that don't have an atmospheric vent

there is another type from nismo ;

http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/NISMO-Oil-...-Kit-GT-R-55665

Which I imagine does the exact same thing as the ISC can since I can't see an atmo vent anywhere on the it (unless I'm missing something - $800+ AUD vs $50 aud? Crikey.)

I think eventually I'll get the ISC one and the Autech can as well as drilling an oil return from the head and putting in 1.5mm stoppers in the oil channels, and a sump baffle from somewhere. That should be enough for any street car.

-D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260910-oil-catch-cans/#findComment-4477492
Share on other sites

Drifters catch can of choice.

10527_coke11.jpg

Serious note.. I run 2 as its neater, I'm not a fan of hoses draped over the motor.

One either side of the motor feeding off that sides cam cover.

One sitting in the drivers side engine mount and the other behind the A/C compressor.

Since oiling mods the cans are always empty.

lol Joel, you redeemed yourself with that last line :)

seriously Damo, unless you've done what Joel and others have done in relation to baffles and restrictors, do not try this method.....2 laps around Malalla and they'll be full.

I still believe that the 2 can setup that I described earlier is still the best for no other mods to restrict the oil

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260910-oil-catch-cans/#findComment-4477854
Share on other sites

ROFL!

Definitely agree. Mine has a fair bit of oil pressure over 3500-4000rpm (~90-95psi).

Without the oiling mods the cam covers were filling on the dyno to the point where I could only just see the lobes poking through the top of the oil level, oil was blowing out and filling the catch cans in no time.

After the oiling mods there's only a slight puddle of oil after a hard extended run and no oil in the catch cans. :blink:

Edited by TheRogue
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260910-oil-catch-cans/#findComment-4478175
Share on other sites

yeah funny how quick the oil gets up there and how slow it drains back, hence why a popular mod is to relieve the oil returns in the head slightly....suppose everything helps.

Here are a couple of options that will also help oil drain back while the head's off....welsh plug replacement at the rear of the head and fed back into the sump (just to help speed things along).

OilDrain2.jpg

OilDrain1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260910-oil-catch-cans/#findComment-4478488
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...