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Hi guys,

well i am at the stage where i would like to modify the tranfer so i can manualy select 2wd / 4wd

any one know of a way

i have used 3 different torque controlers and they worked well

however the 32 is now a basicly friday night cruiser / drag car

was thinking of a hand primed system that uses a hand break lever (so looks like a second hand break) a resivour and a solinoid to do the job

so it is set up as 2wd primarily

comence tyre warm up

lock solinoid to retain pressure

prime transfer case / clutch packs via lever

4wd engaged

make a pass

at end of pass release pressure via solinoid

back to 2wd

is this a viable system?

is there one available?

anyone shed some light?

thanks,

Ben

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Hi guys,

well i am at the stage where i would like to modify the tranfer so i can manualy select 2wd / 4wd

any one know of a way

i have used 3 different torque controlers and they worked well

however the 32 is now a basicly friday night cruiser / drag car

was thinking of a hand primed system that uses a hand break lever (so looks like a second hand break) a resivour and a solinoid to do the job

so it is set up as 2wd primarily

comence tyre warm up

lock solinoid to retain pressure

prime transfer case / clutch packs via lever

4wd engaged

make a pass

at end of pass release pressure via solinoid

back to 2wd

is this a viable system?

is there one available?

anyone shed some light?

thanks,

Ben

Hi Ben,

You can wire in a switch to enable RWD mode only.. search for the trick about pulling the fuse to goto 2WD.

Theoretically to force 50:50 4wd, you could put a switch in on the "bleed" line (electric, not hydraulic). If you remove the kick pannel by the drivers right foot, there is a single wire with an inline plug. Disconnecting this puts your 4wd pump into a bleed mode, which theoreically should run the pump at 100% duty cycle.

I've heard that some 4wd controllers hook into this line or something similar so you can dial up a certain ammount of 4wd by applying some sort of signal to this line (be it PWM, or a variable voltage).

I'm not sure how safe it would be to do this though. If you're willing to risk it, by all means try. Be prepared for frequent clutch pack rebuilds best case, broken front axels/CVs etc worst case. Let us know how you go!

Cheers!

-Shaun

well i have tried

the ebay unit and it works to the point that i can go 2wd however to re engage 4wd you need to shut down and restart the system,

the hks unit works very similar to the ebay unit

what i want to do is run 2wd for 95% of the time

its only to launch that i want 4wd

whole idea is to save the front diff, axles, transfer

thats why i was thinking of a manual hydraulic system

I have played alot with the Attessa in my circuit GTR

If you try to do anything like locking the 4wd it WILL snap diffs off the side of the sump, strip the crown wheel and pinion or break shafts.

Im not the only one either. the BSM guys tried many different ways as well all failed.

The best way to do it is to use an ECU that has a PWM duty cycle map.

We map the 4wd via the Haltech in a similar way to a boost controller is done.

You dont want the transfer case locked during a lauch, and you dont want it locked on decel either. It will break something.

Ive found 70/30 works well for standing starts and 90/10 gives a good balance under brakes. Once its moving you can do a full lock on the transfer without to much drama. If you can fit a clutch switch and have the transfer drop the lock when the clutch is in.

I dont drag race so im sure someone will have a better suggesting for your intended use but thats from our circuit racing experiance.

  • 2 weeks later...

Great read guys!

I'm looking at doing a GTR driveline conversion in my R32 Sedan track car.

I have Front/Rear Cradles and soon 4wd box and front diff.

I will be missing the ATTESSA Pump and the electronic control circuit for the ATTESSA.

I've got a Motec M800 which can control and map a solenoid to the specific requirements and duty cycle.

How would i get this working with an ATTESSA Pump and Motec PWM control?

  • 6 years later...

I have played alot with the Attessa in my circuit GTR

If you try to do anything like locking the 4wd it WILL snap diffs off the side of the sump, strip the crown wheel and pinion or break shafts.

Im not the only one either. the BSM guys tried many different ways as well all failed.

The best way to do it is to use an ECU that has a PWM duty cycle map.

We map the 4wd via the Haltech in a similar way to a boost controller is done.

You dont want the transfer case locked during a lauch, and you dont want it locked on decel either. It will break something.

Ive found 70/30 works well for standing starts and 90/10 gives a good balance under brakes. Once its moving you can do a full lock on the transfer without to much drama. If you can fit a clutch switch and have the transfer drop the lock when the clutch is in.

I dont drag race so im sure someone will have a better suggesting for your intended use but thats from our circuit racing experiance.

How can this be??? Or.is this just happening because your trying to fully lock the system whiles circuit racing. For drag racing from what i gather you can lock it up via a hand pump syatem. ??? Im interested in knowing if the system can work as mensioned above. Adding a switch on the bleeder wire to fully engage 4wd. And having go back after launching the car. I can see it pulling a code doing this but default is 2wd. ???? What do you guys thing. ???

I feel i had a good read up on that topic. Thats why i asked for a link. Computer coding is my wifes specialty. Not mine. But i do know its a way to win people in building confidence in a product. Simple marketing and marketing anything is like 99% intellectual property. But. What do i know?? Ill tell you this much. There is no system other than being equal, that will engage the attessa 4wd system faster than a manual system, just need to know the right time to let it go. Thats key.

I have just read in your other thread that you were leaning towards the Fullrace ets, altho it's not manual, it does everything your asking for.

You can have it set with a fixed split for launch then once under way just flick a switch and its rwd. You can also choose how much preload you want. Worth considering

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