Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lights have been received and are badly damaged/cracked. Not road worthy at all. what to do?

Looks like he's building himself a real reputation among the enthusiasts here.

Not only is he a lost cause in communication skills, but a liar as well.

Hope it all works out.

Cheers, D

well i just spoke to el cid aka tyson bout the lights unfortunatly cause i did not know how aus post treats there shipments i did not pack it properly therefore it got cracked i have sorted out a mutrual arangement with him to either send the lights back and a refund or something similar. as i explained to tyson i did not mean to be a bad trader nor did i set out to rip anyone off but cause of the circumstances at my house i am short on cash, I may not be as much of an ethusiast as some of you guys but i like my skyline and hope to do it up, the turbo motor was sold to me as a whole but bits and pices were missing including the computer so the project worked out bad i then decided since i could not do anything with the car that i would try and sell it whole or part it out as i have no mechanical knolege really parting it out particularly engine wise was not the best idea, anyway im traying my best to work with what i have, so i will ask nicley does anyone know of anything that can be done to the L24E to give it some go.

PS i ask that infuture no one talk about my private life eg: getting my missus pregnant, btw im 18 not seventeen

you offer time and time again to sell parts for your car, never actually following through with ANYTHING, constant emails, sms' photos, posts and the rest...

WASTING MY TIME AS WELL AS EVERYBODY ELSES

then you come and ask what can be done with an L24e....

IT HAS BEEN f**kEN ASKED 20 TIMES ALREADY

USE THE f**kEN SEARCH BUTTON!!!

AND IF YOU GOT NO SKILLS (ie mechanical knowledge as stated previously) APART FROM BEING A f**kHEAD

WHY THE BLOODY HELL DO YOU WANT TO KNOW WHAT CAN BE DONE ON A L24E IF YOU CANT UNCLIP A FRIGGEN ENGINE LOOM, OR UN SCREW 4 OR 5 FASTNERS AND CHUCK EM IN A BOX....HOW DAMN SIMPLE ARE YOU???

IF YOUR SUCH A HALFWIT MECHANICALLY HOW THE HELL DO YOU THINK YOU CAN MAKE THE L24E ANY BETTER????

CAN YOU EVEN SPELL YOUR OWN NAME...

f**kEN STOP POSTING HERE YOU DUMBSHIT

AND DO US ALL A FAVOUR AND STOP POLLUTING THE GENE POOL....

have a nice day :P

"PS i ask that infuture no one talk about my private life eg: getting my missus pregnant, btw im 18 not seventeen"

Going on 5 by the things you put on here?

I have a 7 year old grandson that shows more intelligence than you!

Cheers, D

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...