Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thanks, about an hour after i posted this i went onto DKNE and bought a pair.

wat would u say is a reasonable price for a extractor back 2 1/2 inch system with a hi flow cat, mild steel.

ive had three quotes. 690, 750 and 850.

im in the newcastle area, does any one know of a good muffler place that is reasonable in price as im only an apprentice

cheers

Are you getting them HPC Coated or wrapped? Definitely best to spend the extra and get HPC so as not to corrode the extractors. It does cost an extra $280 or there abouts. Do a google on heat wrap vs HPC Coating to have an idea.

$750 is about the average price for a good quality custom mandrel bend 3" system with a Hi-Flow Magnaflow cat (which is what I have).

For a 2 1/2" catback system with cat I would not pay more than $750! Unfortunately the majority of Jap brand exhausts are 3" so there's not a lot of option for you with a used Japanese cat-back system for an N/A which would be MUCH cheaper again.

Got any particulars on the 3 prices you've had? i.e. brand/model of cat converter? $160 price difference between the lowest n highest quote... would be good to see what distinguishes the $850 system to the $690 system. For $850 I would expect a very good cat converter (metal cat) and something like a oval barrel twin tip, not just a straight through canon.

Can't really help you much on the Newcastle area.

Be sure to post up how you went with the DKNE extractors. I'm sure most people would like feedback in regards to the fitment, any interference with the factory air box, build quality/welds, engine response, improvements to the powerband (eg. how quick it revs out through the flat spot).

I'm not sure how many people on SAU have tried the DKNE extractors as I believe it's only been around a year now since they started making them? In the past group buys had been run with the Coby's so having some results on the DKNE's would be a good resource for others looking at getting extractors done :)

I payed for the extractors friday night so the money wont be in there account to monday morning so they should be sent by then. says on their site it takes up to 2 weeks

as far as the systems go, the 850 one ( i wont mention shop names) ive herd a lot of good things about him, like he makes his systems really well, all teh welds are perfect and they make a real nice grunty tone. my mate got his vl done there with a 3 inch and its so nice all the way through the rev range, he uses pace's and metal cats.

the 750 one ive herd mad stories about to, he tried to find me extractors, unlike the others, and he sed the 750 would just be the system and cat, he uses metal cats to, pretty sure any way, the mad 200cell/square inch ones anyway, and he'll fit the headers for free.

i think ill go that one, ive herd some of hes jobs, they sound mad. mates VK 350 sounds aweseom with his exhaust.

as for coatings on the headers, i just got flint grey or somethin, was free, ill see if the place does HPC coatin, other wise ill probably just go heat wrappin, see wat happens.

yea im not goin a big 20 inch cannon on the back, i dispise them completly, they should be taken off the shelves. i just want a nice single oval muffler on the back, the 750 guy sed he'll do that too no extra cost. guess ill just have to wait til the headers get here first but

If a workshop does an awsesome job, they can charge for it, and it's a case of getting what you pay for. If your budget allows, go for the the system that you know will be of high quality.

Yeah I'm over canons too...I wish I did get a oval barrel twin tip now, I saved myself $90 instead =/ Turbo conversion at the time was adding up very quickly.

DKNE do HPC Coating, it's $280 extra.

Over time, wrapping will increase the chance/rate of corrosion.

There's a lot of arguments between the two methods on the net. Have a chat to the guy that's going to do your exhaust and ask for his opinion between the two and he'll give the full run down on it.

Basically you want to retain the heat in the headers to help with scavenging the exhaust gasses out of the engine. The more you can scavenge the exhaust gasses the quicker it will flow = more power, or more so for N/A's, improved efficiency and quicker power delivery as you are relieving the restriction. The next best thing you can do after a complete exhaust system is a high flow air filter, ensuring it is shielded with a nice cold air feed.

That's good if he's willing to just put them on for you. I believe it's fairly straight forward, just the unlikely risk of cross threaded manifold studs.

If your factory exhaust was anything like on my R34, the compliance workshop welded the flanges on both sides of the compliance cat ~_~

Just a quick side note,

if your car is really low your going to have to pay special attention when welding the front pipe (between the cat and the headers) as the headers hang low and LOVE to scrape!.. ask the exhaust shop to try mount them as high as possible..

I already have a hole in my headers :blink:

Edited by GTS4WD

it only has factory suspension so i dont have to worry bout that....... yet. thanks for the heads up but

i was thinkin of takin the extractors to work, im a boily, heating them up with the oxy and sprayin them with the heat spray u can gefrom super cheap, a really good one but, not cheap shit. ive been told that works just as good. i wanna do the intake straight after the exhaust but for now ill probably just put a lukey of k&n filter on there.

thanks fellas

got the extractors, the welds look ok apart from a little bit of spatter and some lack of fusion.

i heat proofed them, goin to go down to the exhaust place tomorrow and book her in for the cat a cat back system

the muffler guy rang today and sed that 2 of the studs in the top front had broken wen he was taken the maniflod off and one in the bottom row.

there was no clearance troubles with the air box etc,

he sed that the bottom flange was about an inch off the ground, hate to be lowered, so he cut it and re welded it in a good place.

will be all done by tomorrow so ill pick her up and put it on the net.

Got the car back yesterday, exhaust sounds good, although the resinator will have to be taken out for a louder note. i recorded it on my fone but it sounds like a tractor cause its distorted, the digital camera doesnt play back sound and i havent got a video camera but im workin on it.

well the stupid the computer wont let me upload it off the fone for some reason.

ahh well, ill get it on here some how

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...