Jump to content
SAU Community

Going To Do A Oil Change On Tuesday


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yep thats it

Thanks for the confirmation~ BTW, the cost for thei K&N filter is $36 from repco, got quoted in autobarn for 38 or 40+ cant really remember and no stock in SE Melb they gotta order it. Repco can get it in within a day or two, autobarn cant get it until next week... :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the topic of oil changes etc...

I was reading through the manual, and it states that oil changes should be done every 6,000kms. Am I reading this wrong? I was under the impression that it should be every 10,000 k's?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i think every 10,000km if you are using Fully syn oil,Like Mobil 1, Royal purple, Motul or even Amsoil.

6000km for a Semi syn or Mineral oil. I think Nissan use Mineral oil on our cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the confirmation~ BTW, the cost for thei K&N filter is $36 from repco, got quoted in autobarn for 38 or 40+ cant really remember and no stock in SE Melb they gotta order it. Repco can get it in within a day or two, autobarn cant get it until next week... ;)

Depending on where you are located, I was quoted $20 from Owen @ Autobarn Pakenham.

Autobarn Mornington got my last one and I had to pay "customer order" shipping which came to $28 including filter.

Dunno what to tell ya mate.

Try another store (or get them to price match).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What is the Nissan Filter worth?

Surely that is good enough...

A good brand oil should suffice and mag plugs a re a good idea... RB211's have lots of them.

it is good enough but you don't get that handy Nut on the end of the K&N fillter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is the part numer HP-1008???

Correct me if i am wrong....because getting one in 2 days time for my first service~ ;)

Where to get this? I've been looking at autobarn, repco and supercheap auto none of them got this.....or prob I am blind :)

Yep HP1008. That is the one.

Where to get 300v Chrono?

Autobarn Frankston, Narre Warren, Doncaster, Autobarn City or Moorabbin should all have it - although it DOES sell out pretty damn fast at Narre.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep HP1008. That is the one.

Where to get 300v Chrono?

Autobarn Frankston, Narre Warren, Doncaster, Autobarn City or Moorabbin should all have it - although it DOES sell out pretty damn fast at Narre.

def not in doncaster...go there pretty much once or twice every week never seem it ever, not even price tag on the shelf.

went to city autobarn, they got some champ stock, none on choro.

the guy says he dont recommend 300v choro on a street car.....he suggested use 8100 instead, which is at the same price of $109 (OUCHY!!)

just got car serviced at city nissan, cost half grand due to sterring oil, tires rotated...and stupid rear suspension...i just use their OEM 7.5w-30 for this time, wanna see the difference for next service i'll use the 300v (who care wat autobarn guy says, V owners' word are much more trustable!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the guy says he dont recommend 300v choro on a street car.....he suggested use 8100 instead, which is at the same price of $109 (OUCHY!!)

who care wat autobarn guy says, V owners' word are much more trustable!

Same price for both 8100 & 300v Chrono?

I don't think I would shop there...

who care wat autobarn guy says, V owners' word are much more trustable!

Lol... try an M owner and I think the word you are after is "trustworthy"!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Same price for both 8100 & 300v Chrono?

I don't think I would shop there...

Lol... try an M owner and I think the word you are after is "trustworthy"!

Yea, u got me :) , juz cant think of that word at the time for the posting~

BTW, used the 20% off at Repco today and grapped 3 of Motul 300V choro!!! woohoo~

Took from my iphone~

also....spotted a blue coupe on whitehouse rd/springvale rd as I was on the way to repco in Nunawading...saw two guy (not sure if they are the owner of the blue V) took all the 300v Choros from the shelf as there were 3 left...I only had one...didnt noticed it was only 4L after they took all, so ran to repco in ringwood to grapped the last 2 there, that two guy came too, but this time I was faster~ :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys,

Repco have the Motul Oils on sales now~20% off until 17th May, pick some up while it last~:banana:

its almost the price for Mobil 1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I went to buy a Ryco oil filter for the V35 and the Ryco catalogue said Z445 but some of you on SAU have said that Z436 is the one! Which is correct?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,

I have a few q's the filter some of you guy's mention being the correct one to use is a z445 who is the manufacturer, where i live the manufacturer is GUD,is it the same that side. I believe Fram is the next best thing here they say it's made from cellulose as appossed to the old paper fibre. Could i also ask where the fuel filter is situated and it's part number if anyone has it. I also want to do a service but i'm not sure what oil they use in japan, i'm aware if you mix a syn oil with a mineral base your engine oil goes to sludge and your engine well "stuffed",any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Z445 is made by Ryco. IMO if you want a good filter, buy the Nissan OEM. With regards to engine oil, it's all debateable which is best, but as long as you change it often you should be fine...and it's probably not good to be constantly switching between synthetic and mineral, but changing over from one to the other a few times in the car's lifetime shouldn't make any discernable difference.

"Sludging" occurs when engine oil breaks down, usually because it's been left in the engine for too long, it's not really a chemical reaction that occurs when you mix oil types or viscoscities, though mixing oil is never the best idea. I think the factory specification for the VQ is somewhere along the lines of 5w30, which is quite thin. Most people with opt for a 5w40 or a 10w40 and go for a full synthetic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,

I have a few q's the filter some of you guy's mention being the correct one to use is a z445 who is the manufacturer, where i live the manufacturer is GUD,is it the same that side. I believe Fram is the next best thing here they say it's made from cellulose as appossed to the old paper fibre. Could i also ask where the fuel filter is situated and it's part number if anyone has it. I also want to do a service but i'm not sure what oil they use in japan, i'm aware if you mix a syn oil with a mineral base your engine oil goes to sludge and your engine well "stuffed",any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers Richard

correct me if im wrong but you should be using a different filter as yours is a 250gt?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What is the Nissan Filter worth?

I just paid $23.06 at my local Nissan Dealer.

Regarding Ryco (GUD) I am in the process of seeking compensation. They had a large number of dodgy filters that leaked around the seam. My lasted not quite 5000km before starting to leak.

They were paying workshops $100 per car, for me they are offering $19.95 for the filter and about $15.00 for 1 litre of Castrol Edge and some degreaser, in other words they are willing to pay for the parts, but nothing for my time and labour to change over the filters. I am not happy and will be persuing it further.

In the mean time, I'll happily pay the extra $3 and buy it from Nissan.

See Below for Ryco Recall

RYCO OIL FILTERS: Made in Indonesia Z386, Z432, Z442, Z445 and Z547

As a precautionary measure, we request that you identify and cease to fit any Ryco branded oil filters with a part number Z386, Z432, Z442, Z445 or Z547 that were manufactured in Indonesia. The country of origin can be found on the bottom of the inner carton. If you have any of this product please call Ryco Customer Service on 1800 804 541 and we will make arrangements with you to have the defective stock swapped at no cost to you.

Last year GUD Automotive experienced a minor quality issue across a limited batch of 65mm diameter spin on oil filters manufactured in Indonesia. The result of the issue was that some filters could weep oil from around the seam of the filter.

As the market leader in Automotive Filtration Ryco takes its product quality very seriously. GUD is taking every possible measure to ensure that all suspect stock is removed from the market. All stock of these part numbers shipped from GUD Automotive since October 2009 has been 100% certified. This stock has a country of origin of China so please do not return this stock.

GUD have undertaken significant investigations into the cause of this defect and are confident that the issue will not reoccur.

Generally if this defect occurs it represents an inconvenience for vehicle owners and fitters, and based on our analysis it is extremely unlikely that engine damage will occur. Should any vehicle in the field exhibit an oil leak then this should be handled through the Ryco warranty policy.

A full Ryco warranty statement can be found in the Ryco catalogue or on our website www.rycofilters.com.au

We apologise for any inconvenience caused and you can rest assured that Ryco is committed to providing high quality genuine performance filtration solutions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

thanks for the tips,xtc i agree with you that my car is prob different since it's a 250GT but still in the process of trying to find out the correct part number the one on my car is a pitwork oil filter #AY 100-NS004, if you or anyone else could advise me of the correct or a cross ref of this filter i'd appreciate it.

Hey prdreilly i had a Donaldson filter, leak around the seal on my Isuzu 2.8TD PICK UP, also made in indonesia and all they did was give me a fram filter to replace it. Thats here in Botswana Africa so yes all of you out there watch out for these type of filters made in indonesia,

Cheers,Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • People still have Skylines? I thought they're non-existent now. 
    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
×
×
  • Create New...