Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i wouldn't use an apexi.

i had 1 on my GTS-t and i was cleaning the AFM every month. i bought a $15 pod of ebay and didnt clean it for about 3 months... sprayed the AFM with electra clean and not a single black drop came out! to bad they dont make kits for GTRs :blink:

on the other hand i cant find replacement foams for my hks pods :blink: i call around on monday :)

i wouldn't use an apexi.

i had 1 on my GTS-t and i was cleaning the AFM every month. i bought a $15 pod of ebay and didnt clean it for about 3 months... sprayed the AFM with electra clean and not a single black drop came out! to bad they dont make kits for GTRs :blink:

on the other hand i cant find replacement foams for my hks pods :blink: i call around on monday :)

I'm considering new airpods since my M's have the oil spitting problem which periodically requires I clean the AFM's.... keen to find out what the best pair I can get for 80mm/z32 diameter tubing, but apexi look decent enough... what actual model did u have joel?

-D

I'm considering new airpods since my M's have the oil spitting problem which periodically requires I clean the AFM's.... keen to find out what the best pair I can get for 80mm/z32 diameter tubing, but apexi look decent enough... what actual model did u have joel?

-D

the mushroom types :blink:

you can squeeze the stk tubing over the Z32s its just the pod kit you need to buy to suit the larger flange.

to upgrade to Z32s and new pod kit itll be close to $1000 bucks :blink:

the mushroom types :P

you can squeeze the stk tubing over the Z32s its just the pod kit you need to buy to suit the larger flange.

to upgrade to Z32s and new pod kit itll be close to $1000 bucks :P

yeah its something i'll keep in mind - i'll need to eventually upgrade my afm's and if I do that I dont want the current pods oiling up the electrodes, so I may as well upgrade to the 80mm filter...

anyhow that can wait till I get my turbos. after that i'll see how much leeway my injectors and afm's have before I need to replace them

-D

I've got a HKS pod filter (with filter) and spare filter still in packet lying around my shed somewhere I think. I clean it out not long ago and binned a handful of items. Might still have it.

sweet as ruby if u end up finding it hit me up :P

Ben your injectors will start maxing out at about 270-280 kws. your AFMs should be good for about 300-320kws tho.

i think i might change my AFMs just because these old nissans ones are old as shit and on their way out.

Edited by joeleo87

very good find there Chronic :banana:

lol Joel, as Andrew said, I was thinking of shutting this thing down but it's actually turned out to be a wealth of info.

I always knew K&N had a good product (through dealings with bikes).......that other brand seems the goods to.......I'll have to remember that name.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
    • February update 🙂 We managed to get the very last 1/18th "Extra Scale" cars stock available from bookstores in Kyoto. These are actually the last ones and will not be restocked again! Hachette Collections Japan have not decided on a release date for these or other models in the series, so for the time being these are all there are available new.  These are showing up on Yahoo auctions at inflated prices already (especially the Celica and NSX) so get yours now at a very reasonable price before they disappear! Stock quantities: NA1 Honda NSX - 1 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1990-na1-honda-nsx 1973 Toyota Celica LB 2000GT - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1973-toyota-celica-lb-2000gt 1968 Mazda Cosmo Sport - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1968-mazda-cosmo-sport 1970 KPGC10 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-R - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1970-kpgc10-nissan-skyline-2000gt-r
×
×
  • Create New...