Rb25 Into R32 Car Driving Flat(crap All Power)?stock Fuel Pump

[ahh30two]

hey guys just finished my r32 rb25 conversion tppk it for a buzz and not impresed just very flat to drive at half throttle u can feel the boost and it revs at full throttle there is nothing just flat as hel hard to explain but the less throttle better power..

i stil have my stock 32 fuel pump so thinking that may do something...

also dont have the stock boost solinoid in i just have a bleed valve?do i need solinoid or just for stock boost

i just thought the 25 would feel a bit more powerful then the 20..

\any ideas

a way to put it is this say i ust got in 2nd gear put foot flat to floor car doesnt go hard .. if i let off throttle it wil kiick snd start puling

[Jaysiin]

this happen in my vlt, if i race through the gears it will be slugish, but if plant it like first then change into second slower, then plant it again, it will go hard. never figured it out before i sold it as is

[Phantom32]

i've got the same setup in my car, and have been thru pretty much every problem you could imagine building my car to how it is today (RB25/R32 ~ 260rkws no lag) so i prob have come across your problem before, howeveridont quite understand what your problem is.

From what i understand- if you put your foot all the way down the car seems to .... hesitate....and takes some time to build up power?

but if you gradually put your foot down then the car responds better?

Is that right, or have i read your post incorrectly?

If would help alot more if you could list what other mods you have in your car? Did you do the gearbox also? ECU?

If the car is pretty much stock apart from the engine, then i'm thinking it could be the fuel pump. Rb25 requires a lot more petrol pump power than the 20 so the first thing i would do is get a better fuel pump like a bosch or a walboro unit. I already had an upgraded one in my car when i did the conversion so it was up to the task easy.

Pretty much what you've done is the best modification you can do to an R32 IMO. Much better low-down torque, instant respons, and just generally better power throughout the entire rev range. No more shifting to 2nd to get out of 90deg. corners, 3rd is more than enough to suffice. So you should be feeling the difference immediately and noticing a massive improvement in drive as opposed to what you're experiencing right now.

But yeah, if you could explain the problem a little better then others might be able to pinpoint the solution a little better.

hope this helps in some way/form mate.

[ahh30two]

okay here is the rundown also thanks for the decent helpful reply to..

r32 coupe

rb25det (loom done by bhslo32)absolutely outstanding job

stock turbo and computer

motor is standerd

modifications

splitfire coilpacks

3 inch exhaust cat back no cat

front mount cooler

bleed valve(cant find the the original boost solinoid)dont kno if its needed

also have stock r32 fuel pump atm but just got a walbro wil be put in today..

DRIVELINE

i am using the rb20 standerd r32 manual gearbox with an exedy heavy duty clutch

standerd tailshaft

standerd differential

okay the problem-----

car starts and idles/runs fine idles around 600-700 mayb a bit low but sounds ok...

now if i drive the car just grandmar spec its nice u get a little bit of a kick its pleasent,,,

now if i go to put the foot down flat to the floor the car is falt like its boosting but not much just hesitant..its reving but slow and my foot is flat to the floor now if i ease off a bit it wil rev harder and go harder.....

its difficult to explain but im thinking possible is the fuel pump....anny opinions as if the standerd r32 pump wil be sufficiant or not

cheers

also do i need the boost solinoid connected cause i just have a bleed valve and no boost solinoid at all do i stil have to connect something to the plug or just leave it

[paulr33]

start with basic troubleshooting

given youve done an engine swap there could be a hundred things wrong

check basic boost control - does it work, does actuator open, check boost pressure

check fuel control, is it stable and does fuel reg work correctly

does the engine miss or gurgle on idle

does the engine blow any smoke etc

what does ECU diag with consult tell you?

do all sensors check out OK in consult diag?

have you checked afm?

have you checked 02 sensor?

how old is the fuel you are using?

how is boost control regulated?

are you using a boost controller that is working?

what ecu are you using? if stock, stay under 9psi, otherwise ECU will activate its rich and retard protection (ie: boost cut) - fix is remap, or piggyback, or less boost or stand alone ecu

[JonnoHR31]

how much boost are you running?

[ahh30two]

oka i have replaced fuel pump to a walbro 032 i think thats it

it made a huge difference.

car is on 7 psi

i have done a search on how to do a diagnotic test and cant find annything.

does an body kno ho to do diagnostic/restet for ecu.

or does any body have a link//

thnks travis

[ahh30two]

also wat would be the optimum fuel pump for my application?

[paulr33]

nah like i mean, has the fuel been sittign in the tank for 3 months and now you are trying to thrash the pants off

thats common when someone does an engine swap, normal 98 penis fuel should be fine

get a consult cable and software, best $100 youll spend

search on sau vic under for sale for "consult" a guy newkleer makes them

its a cable and software you plug into the cars consult port (right hand side, underneat steering wheel area)

it gives you full ecu diagnostics and reads out along with all the sensors

nissan dealsers use the same thing, but they use a phyiscal device

this is a software emulated copy - works great and on most nissans too

[Phantom32]

so has the problem been fixed now that you've got a decent fuel pump in there?

if the car is hesitating, or not responding immediately like it should be, then it sounds like its getting either not enough air or fuel.

having said that, also check what booct level the bleed valve is running at - when we did my install one of the boys was playing with the bleed valve and the car was running some insane amount of boost which caused it to hesitate big time under heavy load.

i ran my conversion with the stock RB25 ECU for months it was fine apart from a flat spot at aounr 5,7 - 63 which i could not get rid of.

Installing a Power FC was the single best mod that i couold have done for the setup. not only does it diagnose and show you exactly what isnt working well on the engine, it also allows you to get the car to around 200rkw with your basic stage1 mods and for an RB25/R32, this is extremely noticeable and will keep you grinning for quite some time!

keep us updated on how you go, i will be following this thread closely as i would love to see how each and every mod you do helps so i can compare it to how i went about doing my own car.

my car is currently sitting on 260rkw with a high-flow rb25 turbo and i could not be happier - instant response with the handling to boot. not much beats it on the street, have yet to take it to the track but i have no doubt the response will make it plenty of fun to drive out of the corners

cheers mate and keep us posted on how it all goes!