Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

I have owned my Series II R33 GTST for over a year and it has always had clutch troubles; at first suffering from feeling notchy and grinding the odd shift with the engagement point constantly moving but slowly getting worse with the clutch sometimes slipping when dumped hard and other times peeling the tyres over with little effort required and now when the engine is running it can't select a gear and tries to roll forwards like the clutch is not even disengaging at all. I havn't driven it in months as i havn't had the time to work on it, but this week i got some clutch cylinder rebuild kits to see if that would help (i have have tried bleeding it so many times) but today when i dropped the slave off i see that around the clutch fork hole in the bellhousing is all cracked. The cracks are pretty extensive and go right to the front face of the bellhousing and underneath as well but it seems that they have been caused by the operation of the clutch slave cylinder?

post-46790-1237088187_thumb.jpgpost-46790-1237088274_thumb.jpg

Obviously im going to have to drop the gearbox to weld it up or replace the front housing but does anyone have any insight into the cause of this problem? The car supposedly has a brass puck clutch and the clutch pedal is quite heavy so could a heavy and perhaps failing clutch cause this sort of issue?

Cheers for any input, just seems strange i've never heard of anything like it and couldn't find any reference on the forums either.

Edited by Mister25t
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261167-cracked-gearbox-housing/
Share on other sites

Looks more like casting artifacts to me. I'm particularly suspicious of the crack theory when it would appear that the largest crack doesn't extend completely to the clutch fork hole (but that might be just the nature of the photo). If the bellhousing is so severely cracked to the extent that it affects clutch operation, you should be able to see the cracks open/close with operation of the clutch pedal.

Before having anything welded, you should have the cracking confirmed by an NDT specialist using dye penetrant or possibly even eddy current testing. Aviation industry specialists qualified to ANDT and CASA requirements are the best to use for this.

from those photos they just look like casting marks not cracks at all.

the only time i have seen a bell housing crack is when people rattle the bellhousing bolts up unevenly or with something caught inbetween block and bell housing

Aw yeah thats great news guys. Just me being bloody minded it looks like. I'm predicting that im going to have to drop the gearbox anyway so i didn't really take a good look over the whole housing to see all the marks everywhere. Thanks for the quick help and not burning me for being a dumbass. Just waiting on braided clutch line to arrive before i put the lot back together and see how it goes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
    • I did this mod in 2019  You just have to modify the top bracket of the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU so it sits more upright and closer to the back seat and run a good quality positive battery lead from the engine bay, the negative lead i just bolted down to the body in the boot.
    • Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.
×
×
  • Create New...