Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

I have owned my Series II R33 GTST for over a year and it has always had clutch troubles; at first suffering from feeling notchy and grinding the odd shift with the engagement point constantly moving but slowly getting worse with the clutch sometimes slipping when dumped hard and other times peeling the tyres over with little effort required and now when the engine is running it can't select a gear and tries to roll forwards like the clutch is not even disengaging at all. I havn't driven it in months as i havn't had the time to work on it, but this week i got some clutch cylinder rebuild kits to see if that would help (i have have tried bleeding it so many times) but today when i dropped the slave off i see that around the clutch fork hole in the bellhousing is all cracked. The cracks are pretty extensive and go right to the front face of the bellhousing and underneath as well but it seems that they have been caused by the operation of the clutch slave cylinder?

post-46790-1237088187_thumb.jpgpost-46790-1237088274_thumb.jpg

Obviously im going to have to drop the gearbox to weld it up or replace the front housing but does anyone have any insight into the cause of this problem? The car supposedly has a brass puck clutch and the clutch pedal is quite heavy so could a heavy and perhaps failing clutch cause this sort of issue?

Cheers for any input, just seems strange i've never heard of anything like it and couldn't find any reference on the forums either.

Edited by Mister25t
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261167-cracked-gearbox-housing/
Share on other sites

Looks more like casting artifacts to me. I'm particularly suspicious of the crack theory when it would appear that the largest crack doesn't extend completely to the clutch fork hole (but that might be just the nature of the photo). If the bellhousing is so severely cracked to the extent that it affects clutch operation, you should be able to see the cracks open/close with operation of the clutch pedal.

Before having anything welded, you should have the cracking confirmed by an NDT specialist using dye penetrant or possibly even eddy current testing. Aviation industry specialists qualified to ANDT and CASA requirements are the best to use for this.

from those photos they just look like casting marks not cracks at all.

the only time i have seen a bell housing crack is when people rattle the bellhousing bolts up unevenly or with something caught inbetween block and bell housing

Aw yeah thats great news guys. Just me being bloody minded it looks like. I'm predicting that im going to have to drop the gearbox anyway so i didn't really take a good look over the whole housing to see all the marks everywhere. Thanks for the quick help and not burning me for being a dumbass. Just waiting on braided clutch line to arrive before i put the lot back together and see how it goes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm thinking that this is such a small part of the problem that you could easily forego the vac pump and just achieve 90% of what you need, which is keeping the gate open when off boost. It's not as if there are not already techniques to keep a gate fully closed under boost. After all, you have boost. Just use a wastegate actuator that will allow you to apply the boost on the appropriate side, just like every external gate out there.
    • Heres another fitment photo. redrilled the pattern to 5x112, and threw my audi´s rims on. had to touch the upper control arms with grinder, because the "sharp corner" was sticking about 2-3mm on the tire path. i have the "fender lip" mostly cut off, otherwise these (too) would contact with it. 20x9.5 ET25 rear    265/30 20x8.5 ET20 front    255/30 they are temporary, and look too big for the chassis. searching for 19s to it.
    • From experience, it will come back to bite you haha.
    • Background: my BMW 225i hatchback (rebodied MINI/X1) came with 3x RE003 and 1x Goodyear Asymmetric something. The RE003 roared and slid around, the Goodyear side was quiet and grippy. Definitely my car was thrashed before it got sent to dealers. My brother also got RE003 all round on his old VA WRX STI, I wasn't impressed with them, car was loud so can't comment on noise. Anyway, Hankook stopped making/updating V12 Evo2. So bought S1 Evo3 runflats. Great daily duties tyre and not that harsh ride. Tyre reviews site/youtube rated them as best stopping in the rain and I believe them. Next set, Goodyear Asymmetric 5 non-RFT. It beat PS4 in tests and is like $100 cheaper, so put them on. Great tyre, more grip then S1 Evo3 but a tad noisier as expected, still rocking them. Next set I am looking to go runflats, probably the new Hankook Evo. Although the new Pirelli PZ5 did well in tyrereviews test. Or go Goodyear Asymmetric 6 which was top tyre last year. The V12 Evo2 on my gen5 Liberty GT wagon did great in cold condition (drove to snowy mountains for a day so my husky can feel his ancestor's roots). Super impressive performance for $120 each lol. Never skimp on tyres, brakes, suspension. There's old pics of my R31's crappy random brake pads bending in the caliper at Oran Park track day somewhere around here. Anyway, my 2 cents.
×
×
  • Create New...