Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

Got my car back together with stock exhaust manifold on. Noise is gone and it goes like the clappers again, so I'm calling it fixed (y) :)

Wound the boost up to 12 PSI :)

Now just got to chase up the seller about this non NEO head

Nice

now I know 2 people with rotisseries

is the other persons better then mine, cause crap wish i could of borrowed. lol mines fully backyard arc welder styles. its not much to look at but should work. :blink:

keen to come look at a 4 door chassis with me today? its at logan, need to to repair my car and tristans :D

Edited by 32_Dave

is that tubing thick enough to hold the weight of the car without warping? i can't see how thick it is from those pics. Also I'm assuming you got the pivoting points exactly the same height from the ground and also left enough clearance for half a car to pass under the pivot?

is that tubing thick enough to hold the weight of the car without warping? i can't see how thick it is from those pics. Also I'm assuming you got the pivoting points exactly the same height from the ground and also left enough clearance for half a car to pass under the pivot?

its old veranda railings about 4mm thick. 50 OD. its heavy shit. there both same height, and yes there car will rotate, its abit shorter then cars width, because when u rotate the diam gets smaller or some shit. i fail at maths. buy it'll work. its f**king high even with the chassis on the trailer its gotta go up 500-1000mm. Should work. it also has a steel tube that links the two stands, allowing no movement. got allt he ideas from this site. http://www.mts.net/~hpokrant/Restoration_T...serie/Plans.htm

funky u cud have helped..

but u were like f**k this shit - im bailing!

no

ps - funky u in melb or sydney atm?

melb, at home now.

its old veranda railings about 4mm thick. 50 OD. blah blah...[/url]

sweet man, plans look good... pics of it in action plz.

in other news... i think tas likes my R32 after a quick fang out last night.

also we went to Haci's and had EPIC kebabs the way they're supposed to be made. Tonight is a duck meet with some of the local SAU boys (like you guys, but from Melbourne).

in other news... i think tas likes my R32 after a quick fang out last night.

ah - and to think he was all SR

finally he remembers what an RB feels like under the right foot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...