Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

BUGGA!

Went for the tune today and made 255awkw... I wonder whats the difference between rwkw and awkw... =(

But the car feels soooo much smoother now.

BUGGA!

Went for the tune today and made 255awkw... I wonder whats the difference between rwkw and awkw... =(

But the car feels soooo much smoother now.

It’s around a 15% driveline loss.

So say 255awkw + 15% loss (38kw) = 293rwkw = 392rwhp

Which is about right for a standard N1.

@super coach tristan: tried a new grip tonight and got 51 with a strike rate of ~210 :blink:

Also got about 2 dozen stumpings and catches behind the stumps and a few wickets bowling. Good night (y)

To break it down more, rwkw to flywheel kw is roughly x1.33

so, 293rwkw x 1.33 = 389FLYWHEEL KW

Both post's above are rough, everyone has different veiws on loss and conversion rates

Maybe all these while the 300kw I had in mind was rw not aw. But the fact that the car feels lighter/smoother really surprises me. 1st gear used to hit limiter at 60-70km/h now it goes up to 80+. Amazed.

A stock N1 will never make 300awkw, unless the dyno is happy, or you tell the tuner to input 300awkw on the graph lol.

Your car is very healthy and is on par - What else is done to it?

BUGGA!

Went for the tune today and made 255awkw... I wonder whats the difference between rwkw and awkw... =(

But the car feels soooo much smoother now.

Wooooo good shit

Ok, the list is as below

1) Trust Ti-R exhaust

2) HKS Front Pipe

3) Apexi Power FC

4) Apexi Boost Controller Kit

Thats all. Everything else is stock. 1.15bar I think (on the pfc hc). Cant get it to hold 1.2bar. No engine mods. Injectors are max at 90%.

Glad to hear the tune is good Brandon, who tuned it for you?

They must have lifted the rev limit a bit :blink:

Gavin Woods @ Autotech. Shit loads of GTRs... oh and 1 Tommy Kaira 32 (dont know real or not)

Ok, the list is as below

1) Trust Ti-R exhaust

2) HKS Front Pipe

3) Apexi Power FC

4) Apexi Boost Controller Kit

Thats all. Everything else is stock. 1.15bar I think (on the pfc hc). Cant get it to hold 1.2bar. No engine mods. Injectors are max at 90%.

Sort out why it's not holding more boost

- Get a better fuel pump

- Throw in some larger injectors

- Get a good set of cam gears

Spend more time on tuning and you will have a friggin quick car..

Your lack of boost.. They're N1's even 1.2bar is tame... and lack of fuel is why you only got 255awkw. IMHO, with the above and a very good tune you should get up around 280awkw, if you run more than 1.2bar..

If I'm ever gonna get it tuned again, I'll try Matt Spry.

Both Gavin and Matt gave me a good impression when I called comparing to the others.

Sort out why it's not holding more boost

- Get a better fuel pump

- Throw in some larger injectors

- Get a good set of cam gears

Spend more time on tuning and you will have a friggin quick car..

Your lack of boost.. They're N1's even 1.2bar is tame... and lack of fuel is why you only got 255awkw. IMHO, with the above and a very good tune you should get up around 280awkw, if you run more than 1.2bar..

He reckon its restriction. Or maybe injectors (he's not comfortable running higher than 90%). Or might be the boost controller (I've heard the kit doest hold boost very well after 20psi)

If I'm ever gonna get it tuned again, I'll try Matt Spry.

Both Gavin and Matt gave me a good impression when I called comparing to the others.

Don’t get me wrong, Gavin knows more about Nissans than most people – however to cut a VERY long story short, I bought a second hand Q45 throttle body from a wrecker, unknown to me at the time the wrecker swapped the TPS unit for a ca18 unit, which meant the car wasn’t tunable… My car was with Gavin for a full day and he couldn’t find what was wrong with it.

I took it to Matty and he found within 5 minutes that the TPS had been swapped over, we put the correct Q45 TPS in and had it tuned…

I know where I will continue to keep going back

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...