Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

Atomicbomberman had some impressive brembo brake calipers with him one night. Ferrari ones or some such. Dan or Martin might remember. He was putting them on his 32GTR and they looked like MORE than enough.

yeah somthing like f40s or f50s would be great! they seem dear for what they are though..hmm EVO ones are cheap, wonder how much adapting they would take.

PS, Skins my boss is going to give you a call, im not sure what jobs are on offer atm but he does want to talk to you so i guess thats a start!

Cool. Going up the hospital now so hopefully calls me at home later this sarvo.

Cool. Going up the hospital now so hopefully calls me at home later this sarvo.

I told him you might be unavailable due to hospital stuff, he wasnt worried, he will keep calling till he gets you.

hey guys just wondering which brake pads do you thinks better the EBC redstuff or the project mu B-spec/Type HC+. (value for money??) this is for my r33 ill be upgrading my rotors to slotted and want to change my brakes after i get my full tune, the power that ill hopefully get is around 350rwkw or + depending on how my fuel set up will go.

haven't used project mu's my self, but EBC reds are the bomb diggity

just trying to look around for places that sell the ebc red stuff if you have used them before how much did u pay and where from?

hey guys just wondering which brake pads do you thinks better the EBC redstuff or the project mu B-spec/Type HC+. (value for money??) this is for my r33 ill be upgrading my rotors to slotted and want to change my brakes after i get my full tune, the power that ill hopefully get is around 350rwkw or + depending on how my fuel set up will go.

Hawk and RB74s are good too

just trying to look around for places that sell the ebc red stuff if you have used them before how much did u pay and where from?

I got em in a group buy on here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rd...up-t302461.html

Hawk and RB74s are good too

I haven't used either of them, but I do hear good things about RB74. QFM (Queensland Friction Materials) sell the RB74 pads cheaper than race brakes. They are the same pads, just badged as QFM instead of Race Brakes

I got em in a group buy on here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rd...up-t302461.html

I haven't used either of them, but I do hear good things about RB74. QFM (Queensland Friction Materials) sell the RB74 pads cheaper than race brakes. They are the same pads, just badged as QFM instead of Race Brakes

Yeah I rate the RB74s very highly, And I have never used the hawks but Noel does and they cop a hiding on his cars ha ha

Cant remember what i paid anymore though

I got em in a group buy on here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rd...up-t302461.html

I haven't used either of them, but I do hear good things about RB74. QFM (Queensland Friction Materials) sell the RB74 pads cheaper than race brakes. They are the same pads, just badged as QFM instead of Race Brakes

ahh true thanks, ill see how i go until after my full tunes done.

Have you tried turning it off and on again? :P

Or right click "Copy link location"/"Copy shortcut" and paste in to a brower window.

second method will get me by until i get the geeks to come and fix it, Cheers!

yeah somthing like f40s or f50s would be great! they seem dear for what they are though..hmm EVO ones are cheap, wonder how much adapting they would take.

Dan said if you buy them through Ferrari they'll cost you your left nut and first born, but through brembo themselves will cost you about a 10th of the price.

Edited by Isola
Thristian owes us an appearance tonight I reckon

+1. TWO cars to pick from now. No excuses left for not showing up :)

haven't used project mu's myself, but EBC reds are the bomb diggity

I'll be favoring communism when I need new brake pads :P

The greens just earned my vote this election:

http://apcmag.com/australians-standing-up-...ens-senator.htm

http://www.zdnet.com.au/filter-no-vote-gua...s-339303081.htm

Seriously, this is possibly the most sensible thing to come out of a politician's mouth, EVER.

Maybe the greens might have a chance of actually winning this time. Enough people hate the filter idea. And everyone seems to hate K.Rudd (even though they voted for him) but no one wants to vote liberal to get rid of him. I still don't care enough to vote though. You want my vote?

Dan said if you buy them through Ferrari they'll cost you your left nut and first born, but through brembo themselves will cost you about a 10th of the price.

yeah even then they are some where around the 3k mark just for fronts i think, Im gonna investigate my alcon options though, they could work out really cheap through the race team.

Maybe the greens might have a chance of actually winning this time. Enough people hate the filter idea. And everyone seems to hate K.Rudd (even though they voted for him) but no one wants to vote liberal to get rid of him. I still don't care enough to vote though. You want my vote?

Definitely. But remember to use preferences when voting for greens, they preference to labour :P

Preference to pirate party, sex party, gamer party, and basically everyone else instead.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...