Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)

funkymonkey

By funkymonkey,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
Posted

When replacing my turbo, what gaskets do I need?

I'm thinking:

Manifold-> turbo gasket

Turbo->dump gasket

Oil return gasket?

Am I right that the oil feed doesn't need one?

  • Replies 37.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Smity42

    6056

  • Isola

    4161

  • astrotristan

    3047

  • Beelzebub89

    2843

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

FineLine
FineLine

Are you allowed to drive a turb on p plates. ?

FineLine
FineLine

They do indeed mate. doesnt matter where you live these days, if its a line its a target. Mine are kept under lock and key.

FineLine
FineLine

Yes Yes! It truly is....If you like long delays and the worst farken traffic in the state.

Posted Images

Smity42 Grand Master

Smity42

Posted
Posted

Manifold-> turbo gasket

Turbo->dump gasket

These. Althought they are fairly sturdy gaskets and if they are in good nick you might be able to re-use your current ones.

Oil return gasket?

Should just be able to remove the oil return hose so shouldn't need a new gasket here.

Am I right that the oil feed doesn't need one?

You should replace all the banjo bolt washers on the oil feed/water feed/water return. That said, a lot of people probably don't bother, but they are not very expensive so I would.

Just take the banjo bolts to enzed or something and ask for banjo washers to suit.

Smity42 Grand Master

Smity42

Posted
Posted (edited)

What exactly IS a banjo bolt?

TJ-SS07.jpg

There will be one on each end of you oil feed line, water feed line, and water return line. So 6 banjo fittings, needing a total of 12 washers. The sizes will vary, (some will be the same some different) so you will need to work out the sizes you need when you pull it off and then take them in and say "I need 4 of these ones, 8 of these ones..." etc.)

The oil return line is just a normal clamed hose. I can't remember 100% but I think the gasket you are talking about for that one is where the hose fitting connects to either the block or the turbo. But you don't need to undo it there, just undo one of the hose clamps and take the hose off.

EDIT: That picture is a little misleading, the washers are not actually copper washers but 'banjo washers'. According to the dude at Enzed when I went anyway...

Edited by Smity42
mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
Posted

Ok so I -might- be able to re-use those washers, depending on how they look when they come out?

Should I drop my oil before I do this? Or will it just be a small amount of oil that comes out of the feed?

I should drop my coolant though, yes?

Smity42 Grand Master

Smity42

Posted
Posted

Ok so I -might- be able to re-use those washers, depending on how they look when they come out?

Should I drop my oil before I do this? Or will it just be a small amount of oil that comes out of the feed?

I should drop my coolant though, yes?

You are NOT supposed to re-use the washers. They crush when you tighten the bolt and that is how they seal. Once crushed you are not meant to re-use them.

I think some people do though, but its a bit dodgy, and you may end up with leaks.

It might only be 31 owners that re-use them...

Should be no need to drop the oil, just let the car sit for a while so that most of it drains back to the sump before you do it. You may spill a small amount but nothing much.

Water... Can't remember. You will probably lose a fair bit of it so put a drain tin down, but theres probably no need to drain it entirely. Just fill it back up and bleed it when you're finished.

Been shut for a while for the airport link work. Maybe it was only through certain hours...

Did not know that. Must only be certain hours...

mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
Posted (edited)

The oil return line is just a normal clamed hose. I can't remember 100% but I think the gasket you are talking about for that one is where the hose fitting connects to either the block or the turbo. But you don't need to undo it there, just undo one of the hose clamps and take the hose off.

I meant on the turbo where the oil return goes in (i think thats what it is, not sure) there's like a flat surface area around the hole - looks like it needs a gasket.

Burson have a turbo gasket kit with 2 metal gaskets and 'about' 4 cork ones for $50. No washers.

What's the enzed place you mentioned?

Edited by mosquitocoils
Smity42 Grand Master

Smity42

Posted
Posted

I meant on the turbo where the oil return goes in (i think thats what it is, not sure) there's like a flat surface area around the hole - looks like it needs a gasket.

Ahh... if there is something there that you have to transfer from your old turbo to your new that needs a gasket, then yeah you will need that.

Burson have a turbo gasket kit with 2 metal gaskets and 'about' 4 cork ones for $50. No washers.

NFI what those cork ones would be. Pics?

2 metal ones would me manifold-turbo and turbo-dump I reckon.

What's the enzed place you mentioned?

enzed (http://www.enzed.com.au/) or pirtek (http://www.pirtek.com.au/) or any other hose joint really. I didn't get a mobile guy out, I just went into a store.

Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

been up in the copper today again, brisbane is a sea of activity...

people, cars, trucks everywhere...

seems business is back to normal for the major shopping centers...

hope the people who bought 20 loaf's of bread die eating them, wankers...

mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
Posted

Ahh... if there is something there that you have to transfer from your old turbo to your new that needs a gasket, then yeah you will need that.

Yeah I'll just suss out what I need to re-use when I get to it I guess.

NFI what those cork ones would be. Pics?

2 metal ones would me manifold-turbo and turbo-dump I reckon.

Twas over the phone my good sir so no pics, but I was guessing the same as you.

Smity42 Grand Master

Smity42

Posted
Posted

So, good thing no one went to old Baskins last night...

XF and 33s would have gotten across that...

Are we allowed to pick women folk in the mens cricket team? I reckon this Elyse Perry chick bowls better than ANY of the blokes do...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That is a valid point.
    • Piggaz
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Piggaz · Posted

      This issue has been there between twins and singles… it ain’t the hot side.
    • GTSBoy
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This actually makes more sense than what I'm suggesting, which would make me feel happier anyway. I just reached for an idea on the cold side because the tests on the hot side theoretically ruled out WG problems. But now that you mention it, it did bother me that a 12 psi spring on what is supposed to be a good WG setup is on able to get down to 20 psi. That's bullshit. Read that way, that WG is not doing what it is supposed to.
    • MBS206
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If you have a valve, set to 12PSi, and when it ramps up, it goes out to 23PSi, and then settles for a consistent 20PSi and thats the lowest it will go, then I'd be suspecting you have an issue getting enough air to flow AROUND the turbo on the hot side. Now, this could directly flow into what GTSBoy is saying, and that's effectively that your skinny ports aren't able to get enough of the air through the head. Remember, boost isn't a measure of air flow, it's a measure of restriction. And if the turbo at max bypass around it is still able to deliver more air than the head can ingest, your boost will be up.   In the NEO Head, being NA, you said it's stock, are you on stock cams, and stock springs in it?   Have you tried doing a run with the wastegate held fully open start to finish?
    • GTSBoy
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My theory would revolve around the ~4000rpm point being peak torque territory on an RB, where you're supposed to be looking at max efficiency of the head, etc, and....just not having it because the skinny ports are doing something to f**k it up. I'll admit, it's a loose theory.
×
×
  • Create New...