Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)
By
funkymonkey,
in Queensland
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Right, its been a while for updating this car, but I made some small but important progress today. In the end I bought an Ecutek dongle from the Australian distributor Tunehouse (for local hardware support) but have gone with a remote tune from Racebox in the US (because they have done millions of these, and I could not find any tuner where I could access the tune anyway as they are all password locked). The App is reasonably easy to work with, but the PC software reminds me of Haltech's ECU Manager that you need to use with the Plat Pro ECUs, it is a nightmare. Anyway, I sent the details over, got back a tune file and a request for data logs. I finally got a chance to access a private test track today as they want redline logs in 3rd and 4th, and have sent them back for the first round of reviews. The main difference in the tune is going from 1.0 (stock) to 1.3 bar (19psi), although I'm sure is a lot of other stuff in the background. Keeping in mind this is a dead stock car with 125,000klm, this is what the App's performance test claimed: Before After Interesting to note that both 400m tests had the same terminal speed (158klm/h) but different ETs. And no, the speed limiter seems to be higher than that at 186kl/h. Summary of the key logged parameters for the 3rd and 4th gear runs were: Those little turbos were certainly whizzing at 200,000rpm+. Also I'm really not that excited about oil pressure 55psi at redline so I think I'll go thicker than 5w30 (nissan recommend 0w20....) and see if that improves it. Other than that (and the big boost spike....) everything looks good as a start to me. -
Just one more post to show the final result and the original "janky" solution for a laugh. Everything feels really tight and no wobbling at all, very pleased 🙂 -
After drying a few days, time to put her back together -
By Watermouse · Posted
Ahh ok, thanks again for your valued insight Tao -
The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass. If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on. Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside. The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in. For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
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