Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

[FOR SALE] FJ20et TURBO KIT.

[details]

t3/t4 garrett turbo (upgraded)

DR30 skyline turbo exhaust manifold

turbo flange

turbo cooler lines

stock FJ20et ECU

US $400 obo. I am willing to ship at buyers expense.

LOCATED IN UNITED STATES: WASHINGTON

DSC02946.jpg

DSC02947.jpg

DSC02948.jpg

DSC02949.jpg

DSC02950.jpg

DSC02951.jpg

DSC02952.jpg

DSC02953.jpg

DSC02954.jpg

DSC02955.jpg

DSC02956.jpg

DSC02957.jpg

DSC02958.jpg

DSC02959.jpg

DSC02961.jpg

DSC02966.jpg

DSC02962.jpg

DSC02964.jpg

DSC02965.jpg

DSC02819.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261295-fj20et-turbo-kit-t3t4/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have a 6 boost manifold and it has loads of bends etc. turbo has a cover however manifold doesn’t so I started to wrap what I could without taking turbo off. Very restricted area   are you stating wrapping could lead to cracking weld? Is that because heat is retained?    i have a exhaust gas temp right after turbo and it hits 700degree or 800 at times.   there are areas which is impossible to reach with fibre glass cloth. Is there anything I could apply such as the photo shared earlier which would formulate around exhaust pipe in difficult to reach areas, sort of like aluminium foil flexible to shape it in place?   i think from earlier reply you mentioned acl? Is this what you meant?   https://www.nstparts.com/product/acl-heat-shield-700x275     photo of my engine bay   https://ibb.co/9grHsMN https://ibb.co/bXC8KRM https://ibb.co/KV3kGZc   I am trying to cover bottom of the exhaust manifold which joins the turbo. Only way is to take turbo and possible manifold out as it also touches the engine mount which I don’t fancy doing
    • So....I managed to fix the belt coming off problem, but unfortunately i destroyed my oil pump. While testing and hitting my rev limiter a bunch, my oil pump took a shit. I actually heard it break. In my great wisdom i decided to hit redline 5 times (original plan). Lowered it to 7500 for the soft limiter. Normally it would come off on the first go. The 6th time I hit the limiter the pump broke and as i began accelerating again and hit it the 7th time, oil pressure dropped and the protection kicked in. It actually made a "tink" as if i dropped something hollow.   The motor is pulled and should be rebuilt and put back in 3 weeks. No bearings were spun and i could have gotten away with simply replacing the pump, but since i had to pull the motor....might as well build it   I made a billet tensioner and the belt stayed on without getting frayed. I also made one for a friends R33, but I was thinking of using a hydraulic unit to keep constant pressure on it when the belt stretches.
    • Yeah 98 for me, and 6.7/100 was my actual usage. On the downside the bloody thing still isn't running properly but at least they hybrid system is happy now. It starts but missfires like a bastard, and isn't throwing any code except "missfire". Thanks scoop. I did notice the AFMs are reading quite different at idle 1.33v and 1.67v so 25% variance (and have both changed and swapped them, the issue stays on the driver's side afm) so I'm looking for exhaust restriction (mouse nest?), compression issue or (hopefully not, no physical damage seen) wiring issue. Throttle might also be an issue but that is harder because you can't swap them side to side and not cheap to fire the parts cannon at.
    • I hope you're right and it somehow justifies it's existence!
×
×
  • Create New...