Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 207
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest Munky

ok then cheers. Is it relatively easy to set up? If possible I'd like a professional place to install it. It would be sick to hook it up to a missile style flip switch :)

Melv, can you possibly pm me some details about the cost of professional installation, whats involved with a self-installation and the cost of delivery to Sydney?

Cheers mate

email self-installation guide to me aswell please

[email protected]

i dont thnk the tubes are flexy...pretty sure they are either glass or hard plastic, i presume palstic coz its gotta stop rocks n shyte

How bright exactly are these kits? I prefer neons to project a relatively dim glow on the pavement (so it is in fact more of a glow and not a solid light beam as some of the pictures in this thread show). Is there any way of changing the strength of the glow?

Also what sort of dimensions/how many bulbs would be needed to fit out an R34?

Finally, are they legal in NSW, and are the bulbs actually made of glass?

Please try answer all the questions and not just the last one. I hate it when people do that :P

Cheers!

How bright - well goto your local casino/shopping center im sure u will see some neon around there its the same thing nuffin diffrent.

there is'nt a way to change the light (DIM) etc sorry

u would need 4 sticks of neon for you car (same with everycar)

nothing you do to your car is LEGAL i found out that any modifaction done to your car that isnt STD or factory option u can get fined for *SUCKS HAY*

hope that answers some of your q's

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder.  S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which. Connectors:  VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 
    • I’ll try and see it could be the release bearing. As for the 4th gear grind maybe clutch doesn’t disengage properly cause it is slightly like very slightly hard to go into first could be due to the slab cylinder pin being short uni clutch is a twin plate.   Ive attached some assembly photos hopefully you can open the link and see maybe detect what’s wrong https://share.icloud.com/photos/0dc2YvW__Hl6jl-l2_0jejjpg https://share.icloud.com/photos/09e0jkWOK-vP48c1cfY6u3ViA https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b4rDmh5R7pK7fb1VtND73a3g https://share.icloud.com/photos/05eeUi_6dC4DVi80jOUYDgb0g https://share.icloud.com/photos/06335TgY1XxyIJal_wkdQLhzw
    • Yeah for sure that is peddle adjustment 
    • What are your thoughts on this after having it for a while, worth getting?
    • Downshifts are harder on transmissions than upshifts, the input shaft naturally slows down once disconnected from the engine so the synchros aren't doing all the work. There's no "natural" tendency for an input shaft to increase RPM. Something is not right there, I don't have a great answer on what. You can try a dedicated GL4 75W90, I plan to switch to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS which is supposedly a very good 75W90 for NB Miatas which have a weirdly sensitive transmission from the factory. I would chase down why your clutch is making a hissing noise, that's not normal. It might be no big deal but in the absence of anything else to investigate I would look at that.
×
×
  • Create New...