Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey got a progress shot of the old wastegate pipe cut and the new ones tacked into place its looking good just going to check fitment cut them down and then weld in a slight bend to follow the line of the front pipe so we don't run any clearance issues, i am also going to have them ceramic coated to help with the heat sink any one that has fitted the Just Jap dumps will know they run awfully close to the inlet of the rear turbo.

post-39639-1237286402_thumb.jpg

post-39639-1237286510_thumb.jpg

post-39639-1237286584_thumb.jpg

i started, turned into being a pain so i just gave up waisted that much time on them couldnt really see the point for minimal to no power gain.

but good luck oh and i had issues with the front dump screamer hitting the rear turbo inlet

yeah that's why we are getting it ceramic coated it touches ever so slightly so i don't want any heat sinking action might have to take a few mm off just to make sure yeah only reason im doing it is because Ive got n1 turbos and for my application they are perfect no need to blow useless amounts of cash on some shit big single setup when response is my main goal so i still wanted the screamer sound and before the flame session about the sound starts ill be the judge when its done and if i don't like ill plumb them back into the exhaust thanks

  • 3 weeks later...

i will have the pipes back from the ceramic coater on thurs will post some pics up then and i must say the worst part of the job is getting them to seal in the back of the turbo spent countless hours making sure they will not leak and we are also going to run some extremely high temp sealant in the housing to make sure i don't have an annoying exhaust leak sound at idle or increased revs

well i would like external gate but that would mean having a non stock look and i have been trying to make this engine look as standard as possible as i don't need any crap from the police i drive it prob once a week and any thing high mount or manifolds being changed is a dead giveaway that something aint right so this seemed the only way to do it i just wanted the sound to be honest with out the risk and if something does happen then just wack the stock dumps back on and away we go . yeah we made sure they weren't touching but i just did the ceramic coating as a second measure to make sure not too much heat is being transferred to the intake pipe and to surrounding areas of the engine bay im getting a second set of manifold shields done as well im kinda paranoid about the whole heat transfer thing i might try doing up a intercooler water spray kit as well out of alloy piping and a remote bottle in the boot any one done this kinda thing before ???

  • 2 weeks later...

I did the exact same thing you guys are doing, Just Jap dumps with long splits. I also spent hours making sure there wasnt going to be any leaks. It paid off. I had NO leaks on idle or while revving and they sound absolutely nuts.

I started a thread on it, its title is Custom Long Split Dumps or something of the like, its in this section.

Im now removing them. I have boost creep due to my super-high flwoing HKS dual exhaust, the gasses would rather exit via the turbine rather than the gate...but they worked fine with my 3.5 single, had no creep whatsoever.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
    • Did this ever go further ? Would love some updated info 
×
×
  • Create New...