Jump to content
SAU Community

R35 Service Costs


dazmo
 Share

Recommended Posts

out of interest, how do the willall prices for tranny and diff oil compare? I understand the differences extend beyond price and to other issues regarding performance.

Fair enough question. Firstly though Nissan Aus are well aware of who we (Willall) are and what we are doing. There have been emails forwarded around the dealer network with the name mentioned, nothing negative though thankfully :)

The pricing on our WR35TM GR6 Transmission Fluid and WR35DF Solid Boundary differential fluid is indeed cheaper than the standard Nissan product, so there are some savings to be had, not only to the life of the components, but also your back pocket! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

What are these $100 use-once bolts?

FWIW, i had the car up on a hoist at my local tyre place the other day. To get the alignment maxed out/checked. We pulled the underside covers off, and put them all back when done. I think the charge was $70... this stuff doesnt need to be expensive. You certainly should NOT be paying $200/hr for basic service work.

all the fluids and consumables can probably be had much cheaper.

As for the 130* thing, you can easily manage that. I am not saying you will never have to replace tranny fluid, but there has to be a happy medium.

The one use stuff is usually anything with a lock not on it - the nuts are the one use item, not so much the bolts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

$200 an hour in labour for oil change and alingment. holy moly. that is a bit steep.

I can promise doug heasman and paul joyner at bilstein/heasmans in sydney could do a better alignment job and they certainly don't charge $200/hour.

and $1300 for trans and diff fluid is a bit on the nose too.

for mine it would be alingments at heasmans. trans and diff fluid from willal, and either change it myself or at any other competent workshop that charge between $70 and $100 per hour. more money for brakes and tyres both of which are needed in good supply!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

crikey...reading all this info abt r35 servicing cost has put me off one for sure.

actually havent have good rapport with nissan aus lately. always been a nissan fan since got my license. my 1st car was 200sx then 350z 35th anniversary model and purchased a murano for the mrs lasy yr. all bought brand new.

anyway took the murano for 10km service last yr, nissan dealer want to clean the murano fuel injector and it will cost $130. I asked how come I never have to do that for my 350z and they both use the same engine...the reply was they dont know. So i called nissan aus to querry and all i got was answer machine, left a msg and never get a reply after couple of wk. then faxed them a letter and got call back after 1 wk but i was happened to be away so got a msg in my voicemail. Tried to call back and got the answer machine again..well u guess it..i gave up. Oh they also charged me $100 for changin my aircon filter without telling me.

recently took the murano back for 20k service, they insisted on cleanin the fuel injectors again..so i sorta gave in coz i could give a f. the bill was $480 for it which i think is a rip off so dont think i will take it back to nissan for servicin again.

was thinkin of upgrade the 350z.....thinking of the 370z or gtr...but after readin all this fuss abt the service cost for gtr ...i think i may put that idea off now. 370z....may be i will quizz them abt the service cost b4 i buy it now.

got a feelin nissan aus or may be certain dealer try to rip us normal drivers off for tryin to keep the warranty and during this slow car sales time.

tks for all the info guys. keep up the good work. btw i just have to register today to vent my frustation with nissan too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

" Saturday, 02 May 2009

The battle for modern section honours at Targa Tasmania has developed in to a two horse race between the Lamborghini of Kevin Weeks and the Nissan GTR of Tony Quinn cleared out from the field, with only the final leg from Strahan to Hobart remaining. "

Go..... Tony Quinn....... :banana:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how much am i looking at 4 a new front end, sprayed ad everything i bought mine as it was! now i gota get a new 1 coz a f**king dog wouldnt get off the road????

Ouch for the dog and for your backpocket.

I hit a rabbit once at 150km's split my Rx7's front end. god knows what a dog would do to a front end.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how much am i looking at 4 a new front end, sprayed ad everything i bought mine as it was! now i gota get a new 1 coz a f**king dog wouldnt get off the road????

ah.... insurance?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

$300 for AUDI RS4 pads? err, maybe the labour to fit them...

As for the R35 service costs, there is no way i am paying $250/hr for a Nissan mechanic to swap fluids and pads. I'll be doing all that crap myself, and i don't give a flying fark what they have to say about it. Front rotor/pad swap = $6000 hey?? That's about $3000 margin surely. I'll just put that extra $3000 into my own warranty fund and they can shove the warranty up their clacker. Assuming those prices are accurate.

This post is spot on - Nissan Aust trying to scare people with their nullified warranty blah blah. Affording a car is one thing, but being taken for a ride by overcharging for even basic servicing is NOT ON. There is no difference between this and a bloody Corolla For skill REQUIRED if you change oil or brake pads, and nobody can tell me differently. This is not a Space Shuttle people - get real. Its just a normal car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This post is spot on - Nissan Aust trying to scare people with their nullified warranty blah blah. Affording a car is one thing, but being taken for a ride by overcharging for even basic servicing is NOT ON. There is no difference between this and a bloody Corolla For skill REQUIRED if you change oil or brake pads, and nobody can tell me differently. This is not a Space Shuttle people - get real. Its just a normal car.

Thats all well and nice bro, but for those that have a R35 with an Australian warrenty i suggest you take care of it. The clutch can't be replaced like a normal car its part of the damn Transmission. Blow the clutch blow the transmission in Nissan's mind, last time I checked Nissan dont' repair them they only offer you a brand new Transmission under warrenty, or not under warrenty and a $25-30k bill attached. You can repair them through some top garage in Adelade though at your own cost.

And yes these trannies chunk themselfs even ones never once launched. Drive it hard like you would a WRX and if you blow the clutch in the tranny say hello to a big repair bill if you haven't got a warrenty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats all well and nice bro, but for those that have a R35 with an Australian warrenty i suggest you take care of it. The clutch can't be replaced like a normal car its part of the damn Transmission. Blow the clutch blow the transmission in Nissan's mind, last time I checked Nissan dont' repair them they only offer you a brand new Transmission under warrenty, or not under warrenty and a $25-30k bill attached. You can repair them through some top garage in Adelade though at your own cost.

And yes these trannies chunk themselfs even ones never once launched. Drive it hard like you would a WRX and if you blow the clutch in the tranny say hello to a big repair bill if you haven't got a warrenty.

This is a relevant topic: http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=28923

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

There have been a few posts in this thread about the cost of new brake disks / rotors and pads from Nissan, with a few different prices mentioned.

Can anyone confirm what the exact retail price for new brake disks and new pads for all four corners of the R35 are from Nissan in Australia ? ie 2 x new front disks, 2 x new rear disks, new pads front and rear ?

- Waenick Pty Ltd

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

You people must love to throw money away

I have had my R35 for more than 6 months

Car cost me less than $80,000 to buy in Japan

My first filter and oil change cost well under $100 (filters are same as 350Z and maxima) Mobil oil for engine from Super Cheap

Transmission oil if you want the really want the good stuff to suit this transmission you should use the German oil, better than Nissans, about $16 dollars a litre

I have 40 litres of trans oil on order, should arrive any day now

Guys it's just a car just like any other car just a bit faster

So please don't let the dealers rip you off as they always try to do.

Just crawl under it and do your own servicing, it's not that hard

Old thread revival here guys as I am doing my own due diligence on upgrading to an r35.

Targa - my opinion aligns with your post. The only way you can appreciate a car is when u get under it and understand the mechanics of it. The only time a mechanic has been on my car is when it is due for rego.

Martin - with regards to your willall tuning options, do u have a plug and play alternative for interstate owners?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unless you have wads of spare cash you'll find out whict bits to buy and where. Unfortunately the local Nissan parts prices are usually very exxy. For example i got a quote on a front hub/bearing assembly, and for god knows that reason it's 2x what the yanks pay. $500 vs $250, even after shipping it's going to be saving at least $100 for that single part.

Martin can do an e-Tune for you btw, he's done a few for me and all great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^ surely for that price u can pick up a set of aftermarket japanese floating rotors which are an improvement over the oem rotors?

has the aftermarket industry for the r35 caught up & surpassed the genuine parts industry?

for example, the oem r32 rotors are terrible as they crack under race conditions...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I've been working on the car a fair bit, doing a lot of little things.  Still making slight adjustments to my tune, as the cold weather settles in. I've also had to start dropping boost and tire pressure as the weather gets cooler. It's getting very swirly at highway speeds. I drop to 20psi at 20C and 18psi spring pressure at 10C IAT's. I'm currently on 255 Falcon RT660's, but may look into running 275's next summer. They will fit, but barely. Might have to raise the rear a tad.  I'll start redoing my exhaust Monday, as I have the week off. I currently have an oval center muffler and cannon rear muffler. I've been told more then once from people behind me that my rear bumper is going to catch on fire one day. Seems I blow 5-10 second flames after doing a pull. No clue if that's the WMI, as I've never been able to do that before with other cars. I wanted to angle my tip down a tad so flames are pointed down and away from bumper. I also wanted to take the opportunity to reconfigure my exhaust line. I'm going to move my oval muffler to the rear with a pie cut angled tip and put in a new smaller round muffler in the center. I've rocked cannon mufflers on this car for the last few years and want to transition back the oval muffler look. I've also been looking for a stainless project to try out the new solar flux I bought. I'll post pictures on Monday, should be able to wrap that up in a day.  I'm also picking up another rear subframe this week. I wanted a second so that I could modify one with a gk tech anti squat reduction kit during the winter, and still be able to keep the car a roller so I can back it out of the garage if needed. I will also be caging it this winter. More on that later. Lastly, Speedtek still hasn't given me diddly squat. Every week for the last 4 weeks, they have been saying next week. They told me Friday to expect a shipping label that day to ship my two bad sets of ring and pinions back and nothing. There's definitely been more contact since I started destroying their company any chance I get on Facebook, but it's still just words without action.   
    • Have you done a pressure test on your intake/piping? Cleaned your IACV and Cold start valve?
    • Bit of a dump of ones I saw on my trip. I also have a heap from daikoko but that’s technically not  on the street 
    • i was thinking that the 2 wires that go to the sub from factory has some sort of preamp like you mentioned and also a lo Pass filter to get just bass. now that will only use 1 channel and that really should be all i need for a sub? if i was trying to put a set of speakers in the back i can understand cutting into the left and right speaker wires. i will try how im talking about doing it and if that is crap i will do it the way of all wires. thanks for the input guys.  
    • Challenging mig welding thin Aluminium pipe and trying to fit it in, having to bend and twist, but got there in the end. Fits really well and can easily get a socket wrench in there now to put it on/off. I'm in the middle of another project, so haven't installed the suction pipe yet. I'll post some pictures and results when i do.
×
×
  • Create New...