Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sorry guys, so many questions..........

GT1 first , http://www.hioctaneracing.com.au/

We use them (as Performance Metalcraft) for fabrication when our team fabricator is too busy or away. They do top work.

Rev210, they have Tomei camshafts in stock. Sorry my cattledog is at work.

Inasnt, yep the Tomei Poncams are designed to work with VVT. Don't bother with an adjustable exhaust pulley they are pretty much spot on standard, spend the money on something else.

Hope I answered everbody

Rev - I think this is the mildest:

Tomei Cams 256 duration and 8.5mm lift compared to standard 240and 7.8mm lift

That's what I am putting in my car during re-build

YEs, I understand they work with the std hydro lifters - I'm not changing mine anyways - Unless the head people do that without me knowing about it.

Price - Well, I think I'm paying a bit more than normal - but I'm also getting a package deal and make up for it on other things - So you should be able to get better then $1200-1300 - Cheaper if you import yourself (But not quicker) you pay a premium for off the shelf stock on Oz......

Hi INASNT, if you mean "headwork" as in clearancing to fit the camshafts (not porting) then duration is basically irrelevant, lift is the issue. When we get the lift over 9 mm, we die grind the head to clear the lobes. Pretty simple, you can do it in the car as long as you clean up properly afterwards.

So to answer your question we have run 292 @ 9 mm without "headwork". We also have run 264 @ 10.5 mm and done headwork.

To answer the second question, based on my personal experience;

240 is standard GTST

248 is standard GTR

256 is a good mild street upgrade, go for 9 mm lift

264 is a good combo (street, track, circuit) go for 10 mm lift

272 is a good for circuit work at 10.5 mm lift

Anything more than that requires a big turbo/turbos to use it, to get the best a close ratio gearset or an auto would be my suggestion.

There are plenty of people running around with more than the above, but they don't seem to keep the car very long. They get there jollies from the doing (or the bragging) rather than the driving.

Hope that helps

  • 5 months later...

Hey guys

does anyone know how a HKS step 1 (I think they're 256 whoops I meant 264) exhaust camshafts would go with the standard inlet Camshaft?

being step1 I heard they're ok for on the street, but would they work with standard inlet cams?

Also any ideas where I could get the stock exhaust Cams?

Im having no luck here in WA

I'm confused, I have seen 256, 260 and 264 described as "Step 1". Plus I have 264 described as "Step 2". So I just call them 256, 260 or 264, "Step" is a useless term.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
    • Temu raptor, lol. At least the owner isn't your typical ranger danger lot
×
×
  • Create New...