Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 04/08/2015 at 2:51 PM, AUSBen31T said:

Yeah his after external gate version, going to put gate off housing, whats the price for the external gate version?

What exhaust manifold?, if a stocker vl turbo one, take it of the top of manifold...

cheers

darren

  On 05/08/2015 at 12:43 AM, RIPS_R33 said:

Hey hypergear. Just wondering if you have any r33 high flow turbos on the shelf for exchange. Or do you only build them once receiving them from the customer.

Thanks mate

Yes I do have one. it will cost you $150 additional. Which you get that back after I receive your stock turbo.

One more result to add. This is from Boostborthers in SA.

R34 GTT RB25DET NEO unopened engine.
- NIstune ECU
- 1000CC ID injectors
- Factory cams, cams gears, and all manifolds.
- HyperGear High flowed factory OP6 Turbocharger
- 3 inches turbo back exhaust
- Walbro 470L/H Fuel pump
- 3 inches induction pipe with POD filter
- Split fire coil packs
- 600x300x81mm Front mount intercooler
- P98 fuel, 292rwkws @ 19psi.
- Tuned by Boosted Brothers
op6hf292rwkw.jpg
  • 2 weeks later...

Pretty ancient Hypergear ATR28G2 on an unopened RB25 on 17 psi, taking it back for a few more pounds soon, boost comes on pretty strong

Nistune

United e85

Walbro e85 pump

Nismo 740cc injectors

Nismo FPR

290kw

post-72541-14398085686623_thumb.jpg

Ive read so many pages of this but cant find much info on 30dets and these turbos! - so i apologize if this has already been covered.

Im looking at either an ATR45 .82 or the ATR43G3 .82|

The car is track purposed so response is crucial
im aiming for around 330+ on pump 98 ( i figure if i want more cams and e85 will get me there )

30det is as follows
All supporting mods ie exhaust cooler fuel system etc
standard head
standard 30e so roughly 8.4~ CR

So looking at the dyno sheets for these turbos the atr43 g3 will come on 1000Rpm sooner than the ATR45 and will both make the power level i want?
add the extra cap of the 3 ltr and i should be looking at roughly 3200rpm all in with the ATR43?

post-84937-14399499942167_thumb.jpg

25/30 neo. Standard head, standard cams, standard untouched RB30E, SS2 .82, 45mm hypergate, 6boost, Greddy plenum, working VCT.

Cam timing is retarded and only running a 7psi spring so gate opens almost instantly. Huge gains to be had playing with cam timing and running a stiffer gate spring and a bit more boost.

For rb30det use the atr43g4 rb bolt on version. Thats similar to a 3582 in .82 rear. its quite responsive with the 3l and Will make alot more then 330rwkws too.

Sorry I should mention it's already setup for highmount so rb bolt on is pointless.

Is the atr45 the same rear wheel as the atr43?

Not sure of its an error but on your site the atr43g4 boost graph is labelled as "atr45" and full boost is around 4900, not to mentioned. The sharp power curve

Also I'm not planning on going over 380 (which is what the g3 maxed out on e85) at any stage. don't think the chasis an take it

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Stato,

What is the difference between the .82 ATR45 or there the ATR45SS version and what other mods are done to the 33 GTST below? this is the EXACT power I want from mine. Also which profile option was this and will it bolt into the stock location without issues?

  On 29/08/2015 at 8:38 AM, hypergear said:

One more result to add. This is an ATR43SS2 internally gated on a R33 GTST, with usual mods. P98 fuel.

308rwkws @ 18psi

ss2lowboost.jpg

Edited by kingtube69
  • Like 1

^^^ I think i found the answer to profile option - SS2 is what I want being the .82

Please correct me if I'm wrong.. Also from my reading I'll need the spacer which apparently comes with it but need to but extended studs - Correct?

Get the ATR45SAT version. This is a newly developed turbocharger, similar response as the SS2 and alot more power. I'm currently working on a newer version of the SS2 and SS3 at moment. results will be posted shortly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...