Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

TR43 G2 is running a .63 rear which is what the OP6 Rears are. But with a Vband rear. If you have a OP6 rear already then we can just high flow that. Less headaces when putting every thing back. Response wise I would say its touch bit laggier then before high flow.

TR43 G2 is running a .58 rear which is what the OP6 Rears are. But with a Vband rear. If you have a OP6 rear already then we can just high flow that. Less headaces when putting every thing back. Response wise I would say its touch bit laggier then before high flow.

TR43 G1 trims seem to be making around 240rwkw on 20ish psi on RB20's

so i'm assuming that since a G2 is meant to be 30hp larger your should see around 255-260rwkw on similar boost?

how would this compare with the gt2076r 0.63 internal gate custom tubro you posted a few pages ago?!?

TR43 G2 is running a .58 rear which is what the OP6 Rears are. But with a Vband rear. If you have a OP6 rear already then we can just high flow that. Less headaces when putting every thing back. Response wise I would say its touch bit laggier then before high flow.
TR43 G1 trims seem to be making around 240rwkw on 20ish psi on RB20's

so i'm assuming that since a G2 is meant to be 30hp larger your should see around 255-260rwkw on similar boost?

how would this compare with the gt2076r 0.63 internal gate custom tubro you posted a few pages ago?!?

ok now, so now that is stated.

my theory is IF you are chasing 250 RWKW in a R34 with a OP6 housing the best choice is to HIGHFLOW it.

IF you do NOT have a OP6 your better off going a TR43G2.

when i googled Hypergear i cam across a supra forum and i believe you were making a TR43G3. If so will that bring around 270Rwkw?

regards

Chris

TR43G3 is later on called a TR43i. Yes we've maxed that on a CA at 300rwkws with 24psi of boost. For standard build RB25det engine with 19psi of boost internal gate. it should get some where around 250~270rwkws.

We also managed to high flow GT15 turbo off a single soarer with ATR28G3 spec. The GT15's got lot bigger turbine housings. So in case you got a Soarer with a blown turbo we can also make it work.

machine.JPG

housings.JPG

chra.JPG

turbo.JPG

TR43G3 is later on called a TR43i. Yes we've maxed that on a CA at 300rwkws with 24psi of boost. For standard build RB25det engine with 19psi of boost internal gate. it should get some where around 250~270rwkws.

We also managed to high flow GT15 turbo off a single soarer with ATR28G3 spec. The GT15's got lot bigger turbine housings. So in case you got a Soarer with a blown turbo we can also make it work.

interesting as we do a lot of jzx100's here. Got 2 in car park now :dry:

TR43G3 is later on called a TR43i. Yes we've maxed that on a CA at 300rwkws with 24psi of boost. For standard build RB25det engine with 19psi of boost internal gate. it should get some where around 250~270rwkws.

so what turbo would you suggest to run on a stock rb20 trying to make 260rwkw on 20-24psi of boost?!?

has to be low mount to bolt onto the stock manifold and internal gate with the best response possible...

im thinking the TR43G2 but maybe its not big enough and should go a TR43G3 (aka TR43i???)

Edited by Cerbera

Guy on here used to have one he said 18psi at 3800 (that what he set his PSI too) so for something that could make 300kw thats pritty good, and that was with no cams just injectors afm and ecu and a light tune was 245kw.

So with cams better ecu and right tune sould see some good power.

Oh and it was a GTS-4 so RWD should read higher power.

Edited by raZ1911

Hoo yea. thats that Black R32 guy. Its abit of sad funny as I rang him for a copy of dyno sheet and he was asking me if any one found his car any where.

So is 250-270rwkw your highest rated hi flow for an rb25, i currently have a hi flow with a vg30 rear and core with an rb25 hi flowed front and bigger wheel (specs are HERE ) and i have a blown standard turbo, what are the chances of making something that will get around 300rwkw with an auto?

Assume you have a strong enough Auto box, you need some thing at least in .63 rear housing to do that. We can make a .63 Vband reared ATR28G4 which will get you about 300rwkws at 20~24PSI depends on mods. The OP6 Rears won't do it. But the VL's RB30 .63 rear housing can do it.

Assume you have a strong enough Auto box, you need some thing at least in .63 rear housing to do that. We can make a .63 Vband reared ATR28G4 which will get you about 300rwkws at 20~24PSI depends on mods. The OP6 Rears won't do it. But the VL's RB30 .63 rear housing can do it.

What what the price be on one of those and will the oil and water lines be a direct bolt on or will they have to be custom as well?

The price is $1060 including 14psi internal wastegate and Braided oil feeding line. Your Stock water lines fits. The rear end of the turbo is a 2.75 inch Vband, We supply the O ring for dump pipe making, and most of your local exhaust shops can make the dump made for roughly $200.

The price is $1060 including 14psi internal wastegate and Braided oil feeding line. Your Stock water lines fits. The rear end of the turbo is a 2.75 inch Vband, We supply the O ring for dump pipe making, and most of your local exhaust shops can make the dump made for roughly $200.

Would the hks adjustable wastegate i already have fit?

If its made to suit a T3 turbo It should. It depends on how long your actuator's extender is.

I have it on the hi flow thats on my car atm, dont know how long the rod is ive never screwed it all the way out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...