Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

[StealthX]

Can you give me a quote...

Ive got that 300zx VG30DET turbocharger that i posted earlier, what would you charge for a highflow option for this?

got my car tuned the other day, and seems a tad restrictive, so i think in the new year ill go for a highflow!

also, the internal wastegate isnt holding boost down, its opening at 7psi, then it climbs to 10-11psi by redline.

this turbo is strange, cos the internal wastegate is behind a flap, as the turbo outlet is a 4 bolt, so it cant flow enough gas out to hold boost down.

what options do i have there?

heres a pic:

Thanks.

[W0rp3D]

Pinched that pic from your build thread, if you remove those shiny bolts and removed the plate im assuming you would be left with the standard vg30/rb25 flange and your wastegate would work a heap better but you will need a new dump flange, looks like some has used that plate coz it would be easier to make a dump flange for it.

Edited December 20, 2009 by W0rp3D

[hypergear]

Can high flow that to produce about 500HP. The cost for high flowing is $880. And $150 additional if you need the high pressure actuator.

You need to send this in asap if you want to get it done before xmas.

[STATUS]

The engine originally had 5 cracked pistons through the ring lane area. So I replaced those pistons with a set of brand new OEM pistons and rings. I got them for $500 off some one who bought them and ended up forgies. The engine noise you heard earlier was gone straight after rebuild.

My boost gauge has scale for of 20psi so I guess the tuner wasn't be able to read it if its above. So he said 21psi as the niddel stops there. It was running a ATR43G4 which is identical to a GT3582R in .82 rear.

Well its worth spending $3500 to find out the actuator that works. All for science and my customers.

your customer service is second to none i will definitely say that. I don't think i've had an unhappy hypergear customer through the shop ever. Let me know the results once its back together.

[Crans]

Stock turbo removed yesterday, went to start bolting up my ATR28G4 and none of the oil/water lines fit. I need to clock both housings 90deg. If i do this my self is the warranty gonna stay intact?

[STATUS]

Stock turbo removed yesterday, went to start bolting up my ATR28G4 and none of the oil/water lines fit. I need to clock both housings 90deg. If i do this my self is the warranty gonna stay intact?

There seems to be a bit of a mis understanding with "BOLT on" statements made about HYPERGEAR turbos, the only BOLT ON's are the highflows the rest require, clocking, fabrication and DIY mods like water and oil lines.

The only part that bolts on is the 4 turbo to manifold mounting bolts.

[Crans]

All lines except the oil feed should bolt up. I have the braided oil feed. Just wanna make sure i can turn the housings without having to send the turbo back.

[Crans]

Also should i be using any thread sealant for the new oil line when connecting to the block?

[SimonR32]

your customer service is second to none i will definitely say that. I don't think i've had an unhappy hypergear customer through the shop ever. Let me know the results once its back together.

I would agree 100% with this... If I have ever had a problem he is straight on the phone to me trying to come up with a solution!!!

very good business ethic these days is hard to come by

[hypergear]

All the water llines and drain fits. The only thing that doesn't fit is the the feed which we supplied the oil line. If its not at your bolt up position just losen up the bolts and rotate the CHRA by few degrees.

All fittings will go in with no modifications.

[Crans]

Oh cool sounds easy enough just wanted to make sure it was ok for me to do it my self

[hypergear]

There seems to be a bit of a mis understanding with "BOLT on" statements made about HYPERGEAR turbos, the only BOLT ON's are the highflows the rest require, clocking, fabrication and DIY mods like water and oil lines.

The only part that bolts on is the 4 turbo to manifold mounting bolts.

The older ATR28xx with T3 .63 turbine housings was like that as the CHRA was made to bolton to a CA18/SR20's manifold and fittings. This has been changed in later models for T3x customers.

The ATR43's had the water line wholes drilled to M18x1.5m, with T3x Drain pattern, plus thread to suit braided oil line. It also has a customized turbine housings in .63 and .82 made to bolt up to stock 6x bolt dump pattern. This turbo will bolton to RB25's manifold, dump pipe, fittings.

For Crans:

Yes. Just loose up the bolts and turn the CHRA. Once done tight the bolts back the way it was. Then spin the turbo wheel it should spin freely.

[l0WRB]

Cant wait for my new turbo 3582 .69 exh with 50mm gate and anti surge slotted .7 front cover

ill let u guys know how i go once its tuned after the new yr

gonna be a bit of an upgrade over the old kkr480 lol wonder if 400rwhp is out of the question mmm

thanks 4 ur good service stao hope to see the turbo in the mail soon!

[hypergear]

LOWRB: We are still working on your comp housing. Should be finished Wednesday.

We also make custom 2mm thickness high pressure brass washers for any one who has oil or water leaking issues at $2.5 each in any sizes you want.

Video of making above taken inside our workshop:

[craig132]

can you guys make screamers to suit the iternal wastegate of a ATR43 hiflow?

[Crans]

Stao still having trouble getting these lines on the turbo. Can I mount the turbo on the exhaust manifold then clock it or will i rick damaging it like that? Tried 5 times so far and still nothing matches up even had it against an old rb20 turbo.

[GTScotT]

loosen your housing then bolt it up finger tight to the manifold and clock it to the correct position. then tighten 1 of the housing bolts so it doesnt move and remove the turbo to tighten the rest of the housing bolts. do it that way so you make sure you get it done right.

[Crans]

Cheers for that exactly what i was thinking just wanted to make sure it wouldn't damage the turbo having it loose and moving around alot

[hypergear]

You won't damage it. Just tighten all the bolts once its on there. you will be able to free spin the comp wheel once done correctly.

[ssxRicho]

Stao still having trouble getting these lines on the turbo. Can I mount the turbo on the exhaust manifold then clock it or will i rick damaging it like that? Tried 5 times so far and still nothing matches up even had it against an old rb20 turbo.

ya its a biatch to get back on. you have to skin up your hands, swear and drink some booze. it will go on.

i had to 'mold' the existing water lines so they would almost line up. then fiddle with the bango bolts to get them in.

on bango closest to the engine was a total biatch. didnt think i was going to get that one, but i did eventually.

loosen the water lines at the other end if you can, on the 33 there is one you cant really get to. but there is a clip that you

can take off and it makes it much easier. i only had the top two bolts in on the mani while working as well.