Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

[GTScotT]

Is the exhaust housing the the only difference between the HKS 2835 pro s and the Garrett 3071?

No. The 2835 has a cropped rear wheel.

For whatever reason, cropping the rear wheel seems to do wonders for the turbo.

[Harey]

Cool I thought there were quite a few different things. Its definitely my favourite turbo for the RB25.

[GTScotT]

Cool I thought there were quite a few different things. Its definitely my favourite turbo for the RB25.

+1, I have seen videos of them running.. Theres a guy on youtube with a RB25 and 2835 who later build a 25/30 running a 35R.. The resulting videos are interesting.. You could swear the RB25 setup is faster. Theres a difference of 90rwkw according to the poster.

I regret not hunting one out myself.

[Harey]

This is the cheapest one I can find:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

$3800

I am getting a hypergear hiflow made up instead, cant wait.

[Trozzle]

after 3 weeks off the road so far (my fault, broke manifold > turbo stud. Not to mention needing a whole heap of exhaust/intake mods after the car went in) I'm looking to have my car back on the road this friday running the ATR43G2. Can't wait to see results, will post up.

my mods will be...

ATR43G2 0.82 ex internal wastegate w/ 14psi actuator

Nismo 740cc red tops

Bosch 044 mounted in tank

Splitfires w/ BCPR7ES (not sure on gap, tuner recommended)

ViPEC v44 ECU controlling boost

JJR 3" mild steel bellmouth dump/front, more than likely gutted cat, 3.5" catback

3" metal intake, running MAP sensor

phat intercooler, nfi on brand or dimensions

I'm hoping to see 280rwkw @ 18psi, but will be happy with 270rwkw. Dyno printout will be posted.

Edited September 13, 2010 by Trozzle

[GTScotT]

This is the cheapest one I can find:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

$3800

I am getting a hypergear hiflow made up instead, cant wait.

I was under the impression you had a high flow already?

Is your high flow going to be made of 3071 specs?

[Harey]

I was under the impression you had a high flow already?

Is your high flow going to be made of 3071 specs?

Long story, I had paid a deposit and ended up postponing the sale. Stao is a legend, very good to deal with.

I havent decided yet. I am a bit of a power whore, I want my car to feel quick and am happy to loose some traction in lower gears. Stao took me for a spin in the ATR43G3 last week and I was very impressed with that. So at this stage I am leaning towards a hi flow with that and obviously 0.82 exhaust housing.

I judge a car by the biggest smile it puts on my face and if the other car has beaten me cause of traction, thats ok

The HKS 2835 Pro S was more just researching all options.

Edited September 13, 2010 by Harey

[Harey]

after 3 weeks off the road so far (my fault, broke manifold > turbo stud. Not to mention needing a whole heap of exhaust/intake mods after the car went in) I'm looking to have my car back on the road this friday running the ATR43G2. Can't wait to see results, will post up.

my mods will be...

ATR43G2 0.82 ex internal wastegate w/ 14psi actuator

Nismo 740cc red tops

Bosch 044 mounted in tank

Splitfires w/ BCPR7ES (not sure on gap, tuner recommended)

ViPEC v44 ECU controlling boost

JJR 3" mild steel bellmouth dump/front, more than likely gutted cat, 3.5" catback

3" metal intake, running MAP sensor

phat intercooler, nfi on brand or dimensions

I'm hoping to see 280rwkw @ 18psi, but will be happy with 270rwkw. Dyno printout will be posted.

Ah cool, so your going the hypergear as well.

Were the intake mods required just because of the MAP sensor? I will be using nistune and a Z32 AFM so I assume those mods dont apply to me. I was just going to run the metal pipe inside the standard rubber intake, then the Z32 AFM and a HKS Power intake pod. My cooler is very stealth and hard to spot, so my plan when I get pulled over is "I just have a pod filter sir".

[STATUS]

Ah cool, so your going the hypergear as well.

Were the intake mods required just because of the MAP sensor? I will be using nistune and a Z32 AFM so I assume those mods dont apply to me. I was just going to run the metal pipe inside the standard rubber intake, then the Z32 AFM and a HKS Power intake pod. My cooler is very stealth and hard to spot, so my plan when I get pulled over is "I just have a pod filter sir".

he just listed the map sensor in the wrong paragraph, map sensor (plumbed to intake manifold) and intake pipe are no way related so it wont affect you.

[Harey]

he just listed the map sensor in the wrong paragraph, map sensor (plumbed to intake manifold) and intake pipe are no way related so it wont affect you.

Thanks Trent.

Catherine is booking me in for a tune in October with you

[hypergear]

Only issue with that last dyno plot tao is the power falls over after 5,600rpm. I wonder how far it would fall if you kept going till 7,000rpm?

But yes its quite responsive, very impressive. Hard to have everything I suppose.

That was from wheel spin. Sam's straps broke before that run. It wasn't straped down.

[Harey]

That was from wheel spin. Sam's straps broke before that run. It wasn't straped down.

Oh wow did you ever get it strapped down on a dyno later on?

When you say customised GT30, you mean its a ball bearing GT30 wheel and you customised it?

Edited September 13, 2010 by Harey

[hypergear]

Oh wow did you ever get it strapped down on a dyno later on?

When you say customised GT30, you mean its a ball bearing GT30 wheel and you customised it?

No. I did another run with the G3 then I had engine issues. This is a sleeve bearing turbo. I modified the shaft to fit with little bit of crop.

[Trozzle]

Ah cool, so your going the hypergear as well.

Were the intake mods required just because of the MAP sensor? I will be using nistune and a Z32 AFM so I assume those mods dont apply to me. I was just going to run the metal pipe inside the standard rubber intake, then the Z32 AFM and a HKS Power intake pod. My cooler is very stealth and hard to spot, so my plan when I get pulled over is "I just have a pod filter sir".

Well the comp housing of the turbo sits a couple of inches forward, and it's 3" instead of standard 2.5". I was originally going to do the metal intake mod and remove the AFM, then use a 2.5" > 3" silicon adapter...but I'm not sure if it's going to work. Since I snapped a stud, I left it to the workshop to finish the job. The exhaust housing also sits a couple of inches further BACK, so they sent it to their fabricator to modify my front pipe to make it shorter, and sort out the whole intake. Originally they believed I wouldn't be able to reuse any of the standard intake even with the metal piping mod I'd already done up, but they've since told me they might be able to reuse the whole thing, or at least salvage most of it. I'll see what they say when they get it back from the fabricator.

[Harey]

Stao, does that mean my JJR 1 piece dump/front pipe wont fit up to my hiflow with 0.82 exhaust housing without modification?

[Trozzle]

Pat (Randon_I_am) had no worries shifting his whole exhaust back on his R34 GTT...so you'll have to have a look at it I spose.

[hypergear]

For the get the best result:

Run 3inch metal intake pipe with pod

3 inch turbo back exhaust, Perfer to drop the exhaust from front pipe.

Do not restrict intake. Doing so will reduce power, drop boost, and cause turbine side to over heat.

[Randon_I_Am]

Yes, the stock rubber intake (even with metal insert) is no good with the ATR43.

I made a nice metal intake out of a 45degree 3inch peice of exhaust pipe i picked up... (i welded in the bov return and breather) to the pipe aswell. Painted it black and unless you really REALLY know what you're looking for, my engine bay looks bog stock. I even got the stock heat sheild back over the ATR43 with a small custom bracket

I'm running ATR43G2 .82

Z32, injectors... ect. ect.

My last dyno run got 266, with the stock (completely bent into an S shape) rubber intake and airbox. Boost dropped off considerably due to this

will be going back to the dyno very shortly and i will be very suprised if I don't get above 280... The car feels WAY more responsive and more powerfull now with the metal intake

Harey your dump will fit up, just might need to ask it nicely

[Harey]

Yes, the stock rubber intake (even with metal insert) is no good with the ATR43.

I made a nice metal intake out of a 45degree 3inch peice of exhaust pipe i picked up... (i welded in the bov return and breather) to the pipe aswell. Painted it black and unless you really REALLY know what you're looking for, my engine bay looks bog stock. I even got the stock heat sheild back over the ATR43 with a small custom bracket

I'm running ATR43G2 .82

Z32, injectors... ect. ect.

My last dyno run got 266, with the stock (completely bent into an S shape) rubber intake and airbox. Boost dropped off considerably due to this

will be going back to the dyno very shortly and i will be very suprised if I don't get above 280... The car feels WAY more responsive and more powerfull now with the metal intake

Harey your dump will fit up, just might need to ask it nicely

Legend thanks!

So you are staying with the airbox?

I read a big thread from Status about up at these power levels the pod filter is far superior than the airbox. It depends if your intercooler is obvious. If it is then yeah it will give you too much police hassles.

Edited September 14, 2010 by Harey

[Randon_I_Am]

So you are staying with the airbox?

Kinda LOL. From the top it looks like I'm staying with the stock airbox...

But infact there's very little plastic left on either side of it and no bottom at all. With a nice pod filter hidden inside it

I was gonna build a pod enclosure, but i wanted to re-use the snorkel for a bit of cold air intake.

So i got my grinder out and started chopping the crap out of the bottom half of the air box.

Now i have an enclosure AND a snorkel for cold air intake