Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

[BoostedBarge]

Sounds very good. Would be awesome to see if standard RB26 turbos could also be given this treatment

[some_cs_student]

Sounds very good. Would be awesome to see if standard RB26 turbos could also be given this treatment

The problem with the standard RB26 ceramic turbo's is that when they let go they can take the engine with them.

I assume the hypergear version would be able to take a higher temperature than the 10+ year old RB26 turbo's?

[manuel]

Ok dropped my car off yesterday and Trent has fixed up the leaking injectors woohoo!! Thanks again Trent!

However, in the meantime I also returned to a stock intake pipe sleeved with a metal pipe. This was still sucking shut but in a different location closer to the turbo where it is still 2.5". The car still hits hard but once it hits 250rwkw the intake pipe sucks shut and it will not make any more power, the dyno is just a flat line after that even slightly reducing.

So off to get a custom intake pipe made up and I will post results after that. Should have listened to you Tao

You have gone through the same process as me and suffered the same outcome with the stock intake pipe closing shut near turbo inlet. If you want to keep your car looking stock with standard air box i recommend you run a Just Jap silicone intake in black . I have done this and it works and looks great. Happy to show you some pictures of the finished install if you ask nice. This should help you extract all the power available from your set up. Good luck

[hypergear]

The problem with the standard RB26 ceramic turbo's is that when they let go they can take the engine with them.

I assume the hypergear version would be able to take a higher temperature than the 10+ year old RB26 turbo's?

Well I'm not running ceramic turbine wheels. Still aluminum comp wheel with inconel steel turbine wheel. Only the rolling object's been changed to ceramic ball bearings instead of brass bush.

The ceramic bearings has higher heat range then brass or steel, so in theory they don't even needs to be cooled. This prototype is running water and oil cooling just to be safe, plus I've drilled the oil galleries larger then standard steel BB cores for greater lubrication and cooling efficiency. It shouldn't have any heat problems.

[Trozzle]

You have gone through the same process as me and suffered the same outcome with the stock intake pipe closing shut near turbo inlet. If you want to keep your car looking stock with standard air box i recommend you run a Just Jap silicone intake in black . I have done this and it works and looks great. Happy to show you some pictures of the finished install if you ask nice. This should help you extract all the power available from your set up. Good luck

For $119 +shipping for the Just Jap silicone intake, get yourself a metal intake setup fabricated for a bit more. Not paying that much for a rubber pipe.

[Rolls]

For $119 +shipping for the Just Jap silicone intake, get yourself a metal intake setup fabricated for a bit more. Not paying that much for a rubber pipe.

Bonus is the rubber pipe looks stock

[Trozzle]

Shiny silicone looks just as stock as if I sprayed my metal intake black.

Randon_I_am's R34 intake is sprayed black. I couldn't even tell it was in there.

Unless the officer or inspector of your engine bay knows to look for a ribbed intake pipe, he won't have half a clue. Silicone though will be glossy and catch his eye, and everyone knows that 10 second street cars are full of shiny shit.

Matte Black metal intake. You won't look back. Would probs only cost you $150 from go to whoa from most small decent exhaust shops. Even cheaper for a Saturday cash job perhaps.

[some_cs_student]

Well I'm not running ceramic turbine wheels. Still aluminum comp wheel with inconel steel turbine wheel. Only the rolling object's been changed to ceramic ball bearings instead of brass bush.

The ceramic bearings has higher heat range then brass or steel, so in theory they don't even needs to be cooled. This prototype is running water and oil cooling just to be safe, plus I've drilled the oil galleries larger then standard steel BB cores for greater lubrication and cooling efficiency. It shouldn't have any heat problems.

Ah right, sorry I completely misinterpreted.

Interesting, looking forward to some dyno graphs

[Rolls]

Yeah fair call, if you can get it the same price and get it painted black for stealth it would be a better buy, I always assumed they were more expensive though.

[hypergear]

I run 4inch metal intake pipe with a pod using rubber sleeves on top of the stock comp housing. That worked extremely well and sounds pretty good too. Would be highly recommend to run that.

I recorded some induction noises from it with a Nokia phone lol. have a listen.

Induction sound

[Harey]

I run 4inch metal intake pipe with a pod using rubber sleeves on top of the stock comp housing. That worked extremely well and sounds pretty good too. Would be highly recommend to run that.

I recorded some induction noises from it with a Nokia phone lol. have a listen.

Induction sound

That would mean I would need to move the AFM to the cooler piping. Hmm I wonder if intake could be 4" pod > 4" piping > reduced to 3" for AFM > then reduced to 2.5" for the turbo intake?? Prob not enough room for all that.

[GeorgesR34]

Need to AFM to cooler piping. and relocate BOV to do that I believe.

Edited October 18, 2010 by GeorgesR34

[Trozzle]

solve 2 issues (AFM and BOV) in one hit - run MAP sensor ECU

My stock BOV is venting to atmo, as I have 3" metal piping straight from turbo inlet to the POD. Only hole in the pipe is for the catch can breather.

[Harey]

The only reason I would run a MAP ecu was if I was going to run a 4" intake. Your still running a 3" intake which anyone with an AFM ecu can run?? I dont see the advantage??

I will just run a 3" intake and leave the AFM in the intake. The whole point of a hiflow turbo is to look standard (well for me anyway), if you move the afm to the cooler piping and run an aftermarket bov in a different location then it really loses the point of looking standard imo

[Trozzle]

True. In which case you just need to have them fabricate BOV return piping. They didn't bother with mine since I was doing away with the AFM anyway.

[DJSimmo]

Has anyone looked at or is using one of the alloy hard pipe kits that Performance Wise offers?

Designed to work with stock turbo and afm and is bolt on

http://www.performance-wise.net/page54.htm

Thoughts?

[Harey]

Has anyone looked at or is using one of the alloy hard pipe kits that Performance Wise offers?

Designed to work with stock turbo and afm and is bolt on

http://www.performance-wise.net/page54.htm

Thoughts?

Yes that was what I bought first. On my R34 I couldnt even get the pod filter in the engine bay and I have the shortest pod on the market. Also the breather/bov fittings were in the wrong order and the other end to the standard lines??

On the plus they were very good to deal with and gave me a full refund, he said it fits R33s.

[DJSimmo]

Yes that was what I bought first. On my R34 I couldnt even get the pod filter in the engine bay and I have the shortest pod on the market. Also the breather/bov fittings were in the wrong order and the other end to the standard lines??

On the plus they were very good to deal with and gave me a full refund, he said it fits R33s.

I thought the placing of the bov / breather fittings looked wrong in the pic on the website, but all the silicon hoses look like the fittings are in the right spot

hhmm another idea out the window....

[Trozzle]

how about this: 3" silicon joiner. Straight from front of turbo to AFM. No filter.

There.

lol.

[Harey]

how about this: 3" silicon joiner. Straight from front of turbo to AFM. No filter.

There.

lol.

Yup did that too but then you have no bov return and on the R34s in particular my tuner Trent said that it is tricky to tune around and almost always has some side effects. I had lots of pops when changing gears and some other less than perfect things. He strongly recommended to get the bov return plumbed back.

Wasnt sure how to cut into silicone hose and try and fit a fitting into it. Even if it did work it would look very ghetto. So off with the plain silicone hose.

So back to the current predicament haha