Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Further updates:

We've done few modifications to the oil galleries in side the bearing housing hopping for less oil drag on the balls, as well as separate oil feeding setup for the comp side collar. Feels very smooth to spin.

Following some advises, I've added anti surge slots onto the comp housing. In theroy it reduces pressure resistance to comp wheel while acts as additional suction ports once boost hit. So the general benefit would be faster response and quicker spool time. Hopefully it works as expected.

comphousing.jpg

compturbo.jpg

This time its a ATR43G3 duel ceramic ball bearing unit. I'm hopping for 300rwkws with very fast response.

I hate when my balls drag in oil too.

:P With out oil balls would be cooked.

I'm hopping to get 300rwkws around 18~20psi, and expecting to see 20psi by 3500RPMs.

:P With out oil balls would be cooked.

I'm hopping to get 300rwkws around 18~20psi, and expecting to see 20psi by 3500RPMs.

That type of response would really be attractive, whens the test tune happening?

Putting it back into the car today. If every thing goes as planed should have it tuned the week after.

Also we are in the process of designing a duel ball bearing profile for OP6 high flow. Which has the capacity of 320rwkws with GT3076's response while looks stock standard. I will post photos of it when manufacturing process begins.

Hey mate if you already have a atr43g3 what kind of costs would be involved if you wanted to upgrade to this turbo? Assuming everything goes well with the testing

To get that comp housing with the surge slots to a ATR43G3 assume you have the .60 comp will cost $260. or just $100 to drill the slots if you have the .70 version.

Upgrading with ceramic ball bearing cartridge would cost way too much at moment.

I’m still exploring the actual benefits of having those ceramic balls and try to get them to work at their peek efficiency. We will be able to build them at an acceptable price with small batches. I will announce the final price after having a mature product.

So with just the surge slots are you saying you will get faster response and quicker spool time? If so how much better compared to what it is now?

Surge slots wont really make a difference unless the turbo is surging, it actually decreases the compressor effeciancy because it bleeds off air, it doesnt suck air through the holes, rather it releases air.

Surge slots wont really make a difference unless the turbo is surging, it actually decreases the compressor effeciancy because it bleeds off air, it doesnt suck air through the holes, rather it releases air.

Not all true. engine normally surges on low rpms while throttle is half closed. So its really taking out the opposing force out of the comp wheel.

The exducer or the bottom blades throws air out so that leaves more access area.

Thats all theory, and every one believes in different things. So I'm testing it out.

would a bov (plumb back) that leaks at idle/low throttle basically perform the same thing?

That only acts after the throttle is shut. The surge slots releases surge while accelerating.

Ie. exhaust wheel still spins while I’m half throttle, how ever the open on my throttle body does not create enough volume to swallow all that boost. So some bounces back, creating this Tu tu tu sound. I've seen quite few people mentioning that in the force induction section. But how much pressure exist while throttle is fully opened, If so, having the slots would show a increase in response.

Oh I meant similar to how the stock bovs operate, how they leak on idle and very low load, if you could tweak it so they leaked on slightly higher load (10% throttle) to give a feedback effect similar to the anti surge slots, this way you could tune it to suit so that you dont waste too much energy with air recirculating, but also achieve the anti surge effect.

Oh I meant similar to how the stock bovs operate, how they leak on idle and very low load, if you could tweak it so they leaked on slightly higher load (10% throttle) to give a feedback effect similar to the anti surge slots, this way you could tune it to suit so that you dont waste too much energy with air recirculating, but also achieve the anti surge effect.

It certainly feels like the case, I guess Nissan did put in lots of thinking in their design.

Also it leads me to think if the upper blades do any thing if the anti surge slots are set in between. I might just machine them all flat which leaves more induction area. Also I don't remember seeing any anti surge slots in the new machined wheeled turbos that Garrett is bringing out, apparently they don't run the lower blades.

Oh I meant similar to how the stock bovs operate, how they leak on idle and very low load, if you could tweak it so they leaked on slightly higher load (10% throttle) to give a feedback effect similar to the anti surge slots, this way you could tune it to suit so that you dont waste too much energy with air recirculating, but also achieve the anti surge effect.

The stock Stagea bov has a 4mm hole which seems to bypass all the time, I filled the hole with a grub screw and it surged badly, only at part throttle, and the whole car surged in time with the noise, I removed it and noticed the part throttle surge gone and bov response back to normal. This will be part of why I cant hold 20psi though. Perhaps a solenoid bypassing when the throttle is at less than 50% is the go?

The stock turbo has a surge groove but no port, I had that machined out with the highflow.

I havent seen the stock RB valves close up, I didnt realise they were different.

Photos of the bearings before installation:

bearings.JPG

Turbo's installed.

oncar2.JPG

Regarding to those anti surge holes, I think the best description would be driving with a massive air leak. Or unless I am driving with a massive air leak. They do make heaps of noises. I'll going to machine another housing without surge holes for comparison.

Technically you should just do testing on the "abe" spec atr43g3 without the surge holes so you can compare the journal bearing to the twin ceramics as a direct comparison...

If you are also adding anti-surge slots as well you are adding another variable and can't show true results!

After you compare the bearing types, then move onto anti surge slots :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It can't be some stupidly proprietary video signal coming out of it that only Nissan's can understand. Surely you can just find some generic camera to stuff in there and use hot melt glue/blu-tac/gaffer tape to hold it in place if need be?
    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
×
×
  • Create New...