Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The upper blades of the comp wheel is designed to suck air in while the bottom is to throw air out. The slots really feels like it has released all pressure from the upper blades and circulated it on front of the turbo.

I do feel down in power, and the BOV rarely makes any sounds. I think it is off the performance mod list for this specific setup till the normal housing is tested.

Yes, machined another comp housing today should having every thing back tonight. hopefully makes better response then the ATR43G3 on Abs.

Just build ABE spec turbo's, don't change anything, do go looking for extra response or power - just build ABE. You should call the turbo 'ABE'. or 'The ABE' -

get 5-10 cars running very similar results with the same turbo and then push it. From ABE's graph it's easily comparable to the garett's, so just lock down ONE model.

You've done enough R&D for now, you found the best combo in ABE's turbo - now it's time to solidify those results. STOP playing with the specs (for now)

Thanks for the advise. I will keep ABE's profile.

few updates. I've changed the comp housing. In between the standard and anti surge slotted housings the difference is in response. But not so much in terms of what RPMS it comes in but more of from when its merging close to 0PSI to 20psi. Lot faster Shaft speed. The turbo's making a jet engine sound heard few 100 meters away. lol

With normal comp housing its quite. not as responsive but noticeably more power. I guess having the anti-surge holes would be beneficial with a large comp wheels.

<cut>

You've done enough R&D for now, you found the best combo in ABE's turbo - now it's time to solidify those results. STOP playing with the specs (for now)

I disagree, if has the time / money run a few more experiments. If you do something very interesting then just tweak the results and start the manufacturing :D

Great results though, I'm interested, I hope to have my finances sorted in the next 5-6months (monthly pay and not enough of it lol)

between the standard and anti surge slotted housings the difference is in response. But not so much in terms of what RPMS it comes in but more of from when its merging close to 0PSI to 20psi.

With normal comp housing its quite. not as responsive but noticeably more power.

Just trying to understand.

So the anti surge brings the boost rise and torque on faster, but not making as much maximum at higher rpm?

I guess noise is the inevitable by-product of giving the air an escape path, but wonder if the number of slots/holes, and position along the blades makes a difference?

Definitly feels down in power.

The turbo's spinning lot harder and started to spool earlier. It does make sense as the opposing pressure on the comp side is not present. Which means the turbine side would be cooler as exhaust air can flow easier.

How ever how not sure the extend in surge increasement due to higher shaft speed as the engine can only swollow so much air.

I'm actually seeking for expert comments on it as well. It doesn't seems to match all of the theroy. I will do two dyno runs with different housings and see how much of it has changed in power curve.

With the surge cut it must directly above the lower blade. I don't think it would make much differences as lone as its in between both blades.

I never really understood the purpose of surge slots if you werent having surge, surely it would just acuse the turbo to spin harder than required for the same given airflow and hence choke sooner (lower power).

Not to mention if you were having surge that it meant you could change your blade profile to avoid it and with the larger size (required to stop surge) you could make use of the extra flow up top as well.

Stao go the turbo installed today first impression is i have picked up response

My dash tacho is reading about 200 - 300rpm high so where it starts to pick up is atleast 500rpm sooner not to mention the boost controller is turned to its lowest setting on a 10psi actuator so theres more response in her when i get a change to adjut settings

Run a high pressure actautor (18psi) and EBC it will give even better response. The one you've got now (we didn't supply) is too soft. This turbo is good enough for 300rwkws.

Thats all cool. I've uploaded some footage in relation to actuator adjustments in earlier pages, follow that to have the stronger actuator installed when required.

Also do run a 3inch metal intake pipe and looking forward to see some results.

Good news!

This is a ATR43G2 profile turbo on a stock r34 gtt. rb25detneo.

running the 17psi actuator, no boost controller (well it's there just not doing anything)

and fueled up on caltex E-Flex (e70) according to the manager.

rt975.jpg

XF7xI.jpg

I didn't even bother trying to hold the boost up... The power level was enough for my likings :blink:

Edit : for trozzle

Great result there Random I am!

Does yours have a standard nissan compressor cover or is yours aftermarket?

Same question for you Trozzle?

I understand the 'ABE' spec turbo has a custom compressor housing.

Good news!

This is a ATR43G2 profile turbo on a stock r34 gtt. rb25detneo.

running the 17psi actuator, no boost controller (well it's there just not doing anything)

and fueled up on caltex E-Flex (e70) according to the manager.

http://imgur.com/rt975.jpg[mg]

http://imgur.com/XF7xI.jpg[/g]

I didn't even bother trying to hold the boost up... The power level was enough for my likings :P

Edit : for trozzle

What rpm is the power/boost hitting hard, and to what rpm does it hold the power for?

Edited by Rolls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
×
×
  • Create New...