Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

[Nee-san]

anything you would suggest in your catalog for 400awkw in built RB26 (twins only) ?

Must have stock mounting positions.

Cheers.

[Randon_I_Am]

This SS profile does look real good.

But is it still at a disadvantage using bush bearings?

Can you use steel BB in it?

Just thinking about transient response, gear changes ect...

[GTScotT]

This SS profile does look real good.

But is it still at a disadvantage using bush bearings?

Can you use steel BB in it?

Just thinking about transient response, gear changes ect...

Evos use bush bearings from factory, time to get over the BB hype lol

[limpus]

anything you would suggest in your catalog for 400awkw in built RB26 (twins only) ?

Must have stock mounting positions.

Cheers.

You have your answer to that already...Garrett 2860 -5s...no dicking about and a proven performer...

[hypergear]

For the 400awkws GTRs on 98 fuel, we can build 2x ATR28G2 in .64 rears with OEM pattern, they are equivalent to the -9s but would be pretty laggy for street application.

Ball bearing or not doesn’t make much difference. I would build them for my own car but not confident enough yet in selling as a product. I get few failed bb turbos send in for overhaul every week, almost every single one had shattered bearings, counted as oil contamination issue, some of them are just few weeks old. Like I said earlier， pure clean oil doesn't exist when comes to any aged engines. Reliability is most important.

But I'm doing few extra drawings based on the oil setup on the ceramic ball bearing project, I think there is a way that we can separate any objects within hot oil or at least not keeping any objects inside the bearing cartridge. I'll post it up here when ready.

[Dave.TAS]

We definitely need updated results on all current models, like you said current models are different to most things u can read about in this thread, yet are still called the same thing and all your advertising hasn't changed for years.

[Dave.TAS]

Saying that I'll gladly buy something that will push 220-260rwkw with 20 or so psi, and like factory response, like rolls turbo. Ball bearing is good, all my motors are freshly built.

Think about what the 2871R is to the sr20, and I want that for my rb20 and rb22.

[Rolls]

Saying that I'll gladly buy something that will push 220-260rwkw with 20 or so psi, and like factory response, like rolls turbo. Ball bearing is good, all my motors are freshly built.

Think about what the 2871R is to the sr20, and I want that for my rb20 and rb22.

I have a dyno of mine I can show you, its almost certainly done on a long time duration to inflate the response but it is on full boost (18psi) )by about 2700rpm and power starts to dip over by 6k, mainly due to boost dropping back down to 15, but I'm quite sure the compressor is out of flow by then.

In lower gears a more realistic rpm for full boost is about 3200 I would say, drives like a stock turbo but makes 236kw around high 5000 early 6000rpm.

thats my best approximation of rpm from the dyno sheet, was in kph, worked out the torque figures from the power and rpm so they might be wrong but the shape is correct, dont have a scanner unfortunately, might be able to get a shot from my webcam if anyone wants it.

I think if you can make a turbo this responsive there would be big demand hypergear, this was just made from an rb20 turbo as well with the smaller rear housing.

Edited March 2, 2011 by Rolls

[Jap_star]

yeah current info would be great.

also, all your power figures are really 18psi or there abouts. realistically most people (myself included) are to keen on the idea to have a responsive turbo that requires really high boost.. do you have any dyno sheets of some of the rb25 hi flow options on 12-15psi? a much more realistic daily driver / weekend racer option.

and the 230rwkw option was from a member that posted in the rb25 dyno thread. there also seems to be alot of people with the atr28 g3 making only 200ish rwkw on 12-14psi. which is basically stock turbo region.

from what i can see id be much better off buying a larger turbo (Hypergear ATR43G2 highflow turbo (0.82ex 0.60A/R)) and turning the boost down a bit?

thanks for the answers, but more current results would be great. im keen to buy, just dont like buying blind

[Rolls]

yeah current info would be great.

also, all your power figures are really 18psi or there abouts. realistically most people (myself included) are to keen on the idea to have a responsive turbo that requires really high boost.. do you have any dyno sheets of some of the rb25 hi flow options on 12-15psi? a much more realistic daily driver / weekend racer option.

I don't get the point of limiting boost, they are tiny turbos so your airflow and power is not massive, as long as you keep the tune rich so the temps are down there should be no real issue even on a stock motor.

18psi on a small turbo = 12-15psi on a larger one, for a given torque figure the actual combustion pressures are always similar, the only difference is 18psi on a smaller turbo is going to mean a hotter intake charge as its at its limit of efficiency, also higher backpressure but with proper tuning this is not an issue.

Edited March 2, 2011 by Rolls

[scotty nm35]

Ball bearing or not doesn’t make much difference. I would build them for my own car but not confident enough yet in selling as a product. I get few failed bb turbos send in for overhaul every week, almost every single one had shattered bearings, counted as oil contamination issue, some of them are just few weeks old. Like I said earlier， pure clean oil doesn't exist when comes to any aged engines. Reliability is most important.

But I'm doing few extra drawings based on the oil setup on the ceramic ball bearing project, I think there is a way that we can separate any objects within hot oil or at least not keeping any objects inside the bearing cartridge. I'll post it up here when ready.

I have seen too many BB turbo's destroy the rear bearing too, they cook in the rear housing and gum up with exhaust soot coming through the seal usually. Are you saying yours all fail due to the oil being contaminated? Hasn't this oil just been through the filter?

If that is the case a simple inline filter would stop all your failures right? If Garrett are using that line too, I had better put such a filter in so I have proof the oil is clean.

[hypergear]

I have seen few burnt turbine wheels and many shattered bearings. Most of shattered bearing cartridges came from Ford XR6, Burnt wheels are generally from high flows, few GT30 and GT28. They are too thin, only made with 20 thou of materials. I casted mine in 30 thou, and I’ve never seen one got burnt.

Few of the later XR turbos blew due to clogged filters. People seems to forget about them or don't use them till a wasted turbo. I think the design isn't perfect, It’s a forced feeding system in a .7mm tube. Dirt are virtually trapped in it. My new drawing is based on slashed oil feeding system, which objects can be carried out with passing by oil. Work still in progress.

Any by the way I have one more SS profile to test, that is aimed at 250rwkws with most response, will post result in few weeks time.

The Standard high flow results are out dated, current ones will perform way better, results come in soon.

[Lonewolf1983]

I have a dyno of mine I can show you, its almost certainly done on a long time duration to inflate the response but it is on full boost (18psi) )by about 2700rpm and power starts to dip over by 6k, mainly due to boost dropping back down to 15, but I'm quite sure the compressor is out of flow by then.

In lower gears a more realistic rpm for full boost is about 3200 I would say, drives like a stock turbo but makes 236kw around high 5000 early 6000rpm.

thats my best approximation of rpm from the dyno sheet, was in kph, worked out the torque figures from the power and rpm so they might be wrong but the shape is correct, dont have a scanner unfortunately, might be able to get a shot from my webcam if anyone wants it.

I think if you can make a turbo this responsive there would be big demand hypergear, this was just made from an rb20 turbo as well with the smaller rear housing.

Thats pretty much exactly what i'd want, what turbo is this, and rb20 or rb25?

Edited March 2, 2011 by Lonewolf1983

[hypergear]

That appears to be 2860RS spec turbo in side factory housing. We can also carry out that high flow. Most RB25det people are chasing more towards 270rwkws mark, its not a common profile but Can be done.

[Rolls]

Thats pretty much exactly what i'd want, what turbo is this, and rb20 or rb25?

rb20 turbo highflowed with BB catridge on an rb25det motor with VCT

[Timmsy]

Hi, i'm after a responsive 270-300rwkw turbo, must use stock comp housing though. (for unwanted attention!)

I'm after more info on this turbo!

Larger the trim is the more vertical power behavior you get. To get a smooth build up of power you need to run a large comp housing with a small trimmed mid size comp wheel.

I wouldn't call the smoother the better. turbos do produce this vertical power increasement has a very sharp and strong punch on acceleration. while the build up turbo would give a lot smoother sort of feel.

But if you are dragging, The car that reaches peek power and torque quicker is more likely to win.

We can build them to do either, so I would say it depends on people's preferred driving ability.

I think your above power curve of the ProS is similar to this one here:

Its a customized GT30 wheel running on stock cams and 98 fuel. That would be the most responsive towards 300rwkws as you can get. Car wasn't strapped down, had plenty wheel spin.

I think this definently could be your best 300rwk turbo you sell, except of course that power drops off after 5,600rpm! That power curve is insane and would make for a VERY fast streeter!

You said that it had wheel spin on the dyno, did you ever get it re-dynoed? What other reasons for the drop in power? Exhaust housing too small or out of puff?

If it could keep making power till 7,000rpm or at least hold power then I would definently be getting one of these puppies!

What are the specs? (ie wheel sizes, comp/turbine housing, ball bearing)

[hypergear]

^^^

Above is off a KAI high flow based on a OP6 rear. Its probably due to wheel spin or dyno ramp its not as responsive as the SS with FNT technology.

You probably would refer it to:

except it would be maxing out around 300rwkws mark using stock comp housing. Car's had engine head issues during that dyno run. so the torque curve looked abit funny.

[Timmsy]

Ah, ok. So maybe that run was done with a 12sec ramp instead of 9?

The SS with FNT certainly looks very responsive, I like! But i'm after standard comp housing.

So your working on updates for your PU Hi-flow, can't wait to see results. And also as mentioned, updated dyno runs on all your current hi-flows would really be useful.

Cheers.

[hypergear]

I've made a 3 nozzled ATR43G3 .82 turbo, installing it tomorrow. By re-directing air to a more efficient spot improves the current response and driving ability, in combination with large size housing it should produce possibly better power with greater torque.

If works it can change the current ATR43 .82 and PU high flow's power and boost behavior, making a powerful car lot more street friendly.

Installing it tomorrow, will write up some DIY instructions.

[GTScotT]

Stao, do you think your turbos would perform better if you did not modify the housing to suit skyline config?

I am very impressed with your recent SS results and am considering buying one of these for my 1JZ. I am not concerned with dump flange pattern as it will be a completely custom setup anyway.

I simply want the strongest 280rww I can find.