Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

[Harey]

You may as well finish off the steps that have been suggested.

Then you will need to find another e-clip before you should boost it. You can still drive it as the rod will stay there, just dont boost it as it may fall off and if you nail it will go infinity boost. The e-clip should just slide out sidewards.

[Randon_I_Am]

If the rod falls off it won't go infinite boost, it will go no boost... Waste gate will just always be open and it'll drive like absolute shit.

[DVS JEZ]

how was the preload when you took it off? did you get the adjustment to where stao recommended

[Hanaldo]

Yeh I've completed the steps, it appears the actuator was already perfectly adjusted as I didn't have to adjust it at all according to how Stao said to do it, so I can rule that out as a possible cause of my trouble. In the process of getting the rod back onto the arm now but fark me it's hard lol. Where can I get another e-clip from???

Edited April 1, 2011 by Hanaldo

[Randon_I_Am]

supercheap, repco... They're fairly plentiful. Good luck!

[Hanaldo]

Ok sweet, thanks mate. I suppose for size I can just take the broken eclip along?

I can not get this farkin rod back on the wastegate lol. Kind of emasculating, I can't even get it to budge

[Tangles]

repco, sprint auto parts, autobarn, etc. the clip should be like $0.50c

dont worry, lost mine recently as well.

to put it back on, it'll be hard as fark, use a pair of pliers to pull like buggery, slip it on a bit, and hammer it down into place

take a off-boost drive down to your local auto store and grab a new clip. install with pliers.

all the best.

cant put my finger on what is wrong in your application. no suggestions other than retune the nistune ecu elsewhere (different dyno/operator)

bad luck about the costs Hanaldo. Not a nice feeling Im sure, trying to keep to a budget and then finding you've gone over budget with no result to speak of

[Harey]

Woops yeah no boost, not infinite boost. If you have an air compressor you can pump air into the actuator and the rod will be much easier to pull out.

[Hanaldo]

All good, got it back on. Arms are scratched to shit now lol. Will have to wait until tomorrow to get a new clip, everything is shut now.

Anyway, can cross wastegate not closing properly off the list.

[hypergear]

Here's today's tune from ATR43G2 in .63 rear housing.

Dark blue is no boost controller straight off the actuator, Max of 255rwkws @ 17psi

Light blue is with Wastegate controller, 267rwkws @ 19psi.

Driving ability is pretty good, and very agressive. Its a good little turbo for around 250rwkws mark.

Dyno run is based on 9 sec ramp timing.

I've got a strange dip around 3500RPMs not sure if its VCT related, but doesn't seems to be felt on road.

Almost identical Compare to same turbo based on an earlier run on a R34:

[hypergear]

Also we did multiple runs today, didn't have any issues with it pinning with high boost.

If it does pin at 16psi It generally means if the turbo's having issues sucking in or dispatching air (into engine and into exhaust). Lot of shaft speed losts when this happens, and exhaust blade will act as blockage for the engine to pin.

Hanaldo I enlarged your sheet it appeared to run on 14psi??

[Hanaldo]

Also we did multiple runs today, didn't have any issues with it pinning with high boost.

If it does pin at 16psi It generally means if the turbo's having issues sucking in or dispatching air (into engine and into exhaust). Lot of shaft speed losts when this happens, and exhaust blade will act as blockage for the engine to pin.

Hanaldo I enlarged your sheet it appeared to run on 14psi??

What would cause that? Restriction I imagine? Where else could there be a restriction? Everything seems to be pointing to a restriction of some kind. I pulled all my intake and cooler piping off today, made sure none of it was blocked. Did another pressure drop test across the intercooler, only about 1psi difference. Did all hose clamps back up tightly and made sure everything was sealed, no vacuum leaks.

Stao which graph is that? I don't have a print out of boost?

[hypergear]

I'm not sure. From what I've seen this issue happened to people whom made crappy metal filled intake pipes (also blamed the turbo). Very similar to yours scenario, which runs on very low timing, can't control boost, and any thing done to fix it made the engine pining worse. Check page 57.

Yours looks alike but doesn’t mean its the definit same problem.

[Torques]

My R33 S2 w. standard turbo makes [email protected] at the clutch, but that is as far as it goes

16PSI at 3000 rpm ....

Nistune, Cams, De-Cat, etc ...

a stock turbo'd rb25 making "way over 200rwkw" on 14psi... stao, whatever you are on can you pls organise me a pound?

also trent's dyno with the appropriate correction reads the same as a dyno dynamics, my car has backed this up on 3-4 dyno's now

[JKR-32]

My R33 S2 w. standard turbo makes [email protected] at the clutch, but that is as far as it goes

16PSI at 3000 rpm ....

Nistune, Cams, De-Cat, etc ...

yea, which would amount to all of 190-200kw at the treads champ.

[ssxRicho]

We talk rear wheel kw here, as measured off the rollers or hubs.

240kw is going to net you around 200-220rwkw.

You sure it is the stocker turbo? You realise the exhaust wheel is made of glass, well ok ceramic. Anything after 12PSI is asking to have the exhaust wheel end up down the exhaust.

Tao it would be interesting to see the ATR43G2 in .63 with some boost control. Comparing it to the 3071R's in the results thread it is laking in response a little, even against the .82 rear. And

youre run has is starting off at 1.4bar and bleeding off, where as the 3071's run a pretty constant 1.1-2bar'ish

[Torques]

yea, which would amount to all of 190-200kw at the treads champ.

I have the exact figure somewhere .. but I sure did not lose 50KW on the way to the wheels

But as said, this is as good as it gets with the standard turbo, and I never stress the turbine for too long ..

[Torques]

Hi!

Yes, it is the standard turbine ..

I ran this type of boost for over 14 months now ...

But as said, the turbo is not overly stressed since I rarely use the full boost for long.

Also I only have a SMIC from the R34 ..

I heard many stories about how much this unit can take, eventually the turbo might die

So I am already doing the research for a new turbo if my old unit should fail me one day ..

I definitely want to keep the low lag of the standard unit, so 14.7 PSI at 3000rpm is a must.

Attached is an older dyno-run.

Ignore Torque figure / shape, since the operator did not tie my car down well enough

We talk rear wheel kw here, as measured off the rollers or hubs.

240kw is going to net you around 200-220rwkw.

You sure it is the stocker turbo? You realise the exhaust wheel is made of glass, well ok ceramic. Anything after 12PSI is asking to have the exhaust wheel end up down the exhaust.

Edited April 1, 2011 by Torques

[hypergear]

Tao it would be interesting to see the ATR43G2 in .63 with some boost control. Comparing it to the 3071R's in the results thread it is laking in response a little, even against the .82 rear. youre run has is starting off at 1.4bar and bleeding off, where as the 3071's run a pretty constant 1.1-2bar'ish

The one you've seen (based on status reading) are on 12 sec ramp timing, I've already tried to compare those at status,. mine's on 9 sec with current software. Based on 9 sec ramp they almost the same. information and comparision on dyno ramp is in page 73.

That is a very standard G2. The ATR43SS series with FNT turbine is probably some thing to look at if you really want the power curve to stand out.

I've running a high pressure actautor so won't be able to run any thing less then 20psi. The R34 Neo motor was running on 15psi and made the same power every where as mine which is interesting.

[GTScotT]

Hanaldo, Ive said this a few times on the forum yet a few years back I experienced a problem similar to yours.

The issue was I had an 80mm front pipe and a 76mm cat. The 4mm smaller ID caused all sorts of issues and resulted in about 60rwkw less than expected. We swapped to a fairly standard 80mm cat and got the 60rwkw back.

Im not suggesting your cat is bad or the wrong size, but im suspicious about your custom made dump. For the money I highly recommend you grab a justjap bellmouth dump, they are only $189 brand new... Im not sure how much shipping to WA will be though.