Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

why are people running these turbos at 17-18psi and not 22psi?? Whats the go with the dude above asking for a 14psi actuator, why not a 22psi one?? confused...:unsure:

The headgasket, the combustion pressure, the heat. Alot of issues come in when running high boost. I don't think the standard headgasket is good for much above 18psi for too long, especially on 15+ year old motors. You are really gonna start increasing the intake air charge on long runs. Sure it looks good on a dyno but how long is your motor going to last you.

Stao, I have one of your 17psi actuators which I bought from here, I tested it out and the thing does not open up to 25psi... It starts opening around 19psi... I really think you should use some higher quality actuators. Garret parts are cheaper than the actuators you have and should be of better quality and provide a straight and consistent boost level.

Its a sloppy setup having an actuator which opens randomly when on boost. On this low pressure actuator I got from you, sometimes it opens at 8psi sometimes it will shoot up to 14psi. Other days it won't go anywhere near 11psi. Its very strange. Air temp wont mean shit, pressure is pressure, if the actuator is holding 10 constant, it should always hold 10 constant. I'm guessing maybe when under bonnet temps or the turbo temps get hot, the spring may get soft causing boost to flop or the spring to work out of spec.

I don't know but I do need to run more boost but scared to do so with these actuators. Are you able to source Garret actuators to fit your turbos? Have you considered kinugawa actuators?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Actuator-SUBARU-Legacy-WRX-IHI-VF40-VF46-15-Psi-/280712012508?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415bbd62dc

I really dont want external gate boost control... That will totally eliminate any stock looking setup.

My old gt3071 high flow had perfect boost control to 14psi. These actuators feel very lazy.

I manage to hold boost pretty well? Drops off around 2psi towards redline, that's deliberate though.

What boost controller do you have? These actuators are really inconsistent. Check Taos last couple of posts, he had one of his high pressure actuators spike to 25psi. You cant make the actuator open earlier then it should, a boost controller can bleed off air to delay the actuator opening so unless your boost controller has a near perfect 17psi spring fitted in it, its maybe just a one off that it is holding 17psi allowing you to control 18psi. I'm not worry about it tapering down, my concern is the initial boost level and the fact that you cannot control this. Bleeding off air will only cause the boost controller to open later.

I really dont want external gate boost control... That will totally eliminate any stock looking setup.

My old gt3071 high flow had perfect boost control to 14psi. These actuators feel very lazy.

What boost controller do you have? These actuators are really inconsistent. Check Taos last couple of posts, he had one of his high pressure actuators spike to 25psi. You cant make the actuator open earlier then it should, a boost controller can bleed off air to delay the actuator opening so unless your boost controller has a near perfect 17psi spring fitted in it, its maybe just a one off that it is holding 17psi allowing you to control 18psi. I'm not worry about it tapering down, my concern is the initial boost level and the fact that you cannot control this. Bleeding off air will only cause the boost controller to open later.

Greddy Profec Bspec II.

Stao, I have one of your 17psi actuators which I bought from here, I tested it out and the thing does not open up to 25psi... It starts opening around 19psi... I really think you should use some higher quality actuators. Garret parts are cheaper than the actuators you have and should be of better quality and provide a straight and consistent boost level.

First of all turbos are different with unique wheel design as well as housing and gate sizes. Means the back pressure in them are not the same. So high pressure actuator only means it hold certain pressure on the turbo that has been specifically made for, refer to what I was originally asked to build.

If you run an actuator from a different turbo to on some thing else obviously its going to give different readings. Eg. If I run an actuator that made to hold 18psi on a .58 rear housing, then that actuator will hold 24psi on a .82 rear housing. As the back pressure from the .58 is lot greater then the .82. Only means its not the correct part, does not mean its bad quality.

That is why I asked you to keep the original actuator I've tested and supplied with the turbo, or buy it back from my self. Have a look at my boost pressure curve for the SS2, that is a perfect actuator for that turbo.

In terms of High pressure actuators we have 4 different spring settings so I guess you've fitted the strongest one by luck, same as what I've fitted on the SS1-PU.

Oooh yeah. Just paid for the pu prototype. Excited to see how she goes.

Will post up results when the cars been tuned.

What are you strapping it onto? Your profile lists a GTR, are you going single turbo on the RB26?? If so I will be very interested to see how this goes!

Just organized another actuator from Tao, designed for my turbo! Excitement rising!

What are you strapping it onto? Your profile lists a GTR, are you going single turbo on the RB26?? If so I will be very interested to see how this goes!

Just organized another actuator from Tao, designed for my turbo! Excitement rising!

He mentioned something about an RB25 drift car at some stage, I forget where...

He mentioned something about an RB25 drift car at some stage, I forget where...

Ah cool.

Can you PM me your Profec B spec 2 settings and what boost you are running on high and low? Ive got the same controller so Ill use your settings just as a guide line for when I get the high pressure actuator. What is the max boost your greddy controller stores on your boost settings?

My high settings read about 11.3psi and low is about 10psi. Sometimes a 13psi spike on high. High is 100% too lol.

Ah cool.

Can you PM me your Profec B spec 2 settings and what boost you are running on high and low? Ive got the same controller so Ill use your settings just as a guide line for when I get the high pressure actuator. What is the max boost your greddy controller stores on your boost settings?

My high settings read about 11.3psi and low is about 10psi. Sometimes a 13psi spike on high. High is 100% too lol.

I'll check all my settings for ya tomorrow mate :thumbsup:

Probably want some thing knocks less on high boost.

Also For people who's thinking doing Z32 ECU with Nistune on R33. Don't do it. I'm having so much trouble getting it to work, they are unreliable, and many areas that can’t be touched.

Big thanks Trent's spent 6 hours tuning and try to fix it and it just don't work.

I'm thinking of modding the illustration car back to stock or going for a PFC or Link ecu for my next run.

Uh oh. I have a about 5 z32-r33 nistunes to do this month. U have me scared now. With my drift car ill be running a rb20 ecu with a msd or similar rpm window switch.

Boys the prototype pu turbo will be going onto a customers R33. Very tidy car running power fc, 3inch etc. And a profec B i fitted to it last sunday.

My r32 gtst with rb25 drift car is running a different turbo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...